Templar X 250

[JRust]

Originally Posted by Thumper

service@maxpro-llc.com

Tell them the model number. They have the wheels (laced, with hub, bearings and seals) as well.

Thanks. I am emailing them now.

[chinazuki]

when checking/adjusting valves....is there a TDC mark, or pull the plug and watch the piston/valves?

....bypassing the brake switch on starting (to allow push start) has that been done?

[Hap]

Originally Posted by chinazuki

when checking/adjusting valves....is there a TDC mark, or pull the plug and watch the piston/valves?

....bypassing the brake switch on starting (to allow push start) has that been done?

I don’t know. But that’s a good idea. Without a backup kickstart.

[JRust]

Originally Posted by chinazuki

when checking/adjusting valves....is there a TDC mark, or pull the plug and watch the piston/valves?

....bypassing the brake switch on starting (to allow push start) has that been done?

Yes, it’s on the left side of the engine.

[tknj99]

Help! Despite having opened up a few of these youall tamper proof carbs on other bikes, this one wound up being a fail due to the screws being red locktited in, i wound up having to break the bowl off and now need to order a replacement. Which one for the Templar X (6-speed) a PE28 or PE30. I already have the 125 main and 42 pilot i plan to use. Thanks

[clezummavrider]

@tknj99 Sounds like it is a PE28

Originally Posted by Okierider

Well, it’s definitely not a 30mm carb in the Templar X.
The Mikuni VM30 dwarfs the stock unit-its actually very similar in size to a 26mm Mikuni.
So…off to take measurements lol.
In fact-on the engine side of the carb they are identical- 35mm OD, 28mm ID
Filter side stock is 49mm OD, 44mm OD for the VM26. The inner diameters are very different but so is the shape-kind of a wash really.
Finally at the needle jet, measuring the distance from top to bottom of the slide the stock unit is 28mm vs, you guessed it, 26mm for the VM26.
So it is definitively a 28mm carb.
Hmmm. I may throw the VM26 in there just to see how it runs.

[tknj99]

Originally Posted by clezummavrider

@tknj99 Sounds like it is a PE28

Thanks so much for that info.. i figured it was but also saw it listed as a PE30 on other seller sites so was confusing.. I found the carb on Amazon here and although it states its a PE30 the reviewed confirmed its 28mm and matches exactly the PE28's also on the site:

PE28: https://www.amazon.com/Carburetor-Ke...%3D%3D&sr=8-10

PE30 which is the PE28 but cheaper lol: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...7IFIDCPR&psc=1

[clezummavrider]

Nice - I am jealous of the easier to grip air/fuel screw on these

[Thumper]

Originally Posted by tknj99

Help! Despite having opened up a few of these youall tamper proof carbs on other bikes, this one wound up being a fail due to the screws being red locktited in, i wound up having to break the bowl off and now need to order a replacement. Which one for the Templar X (6-speed) a PE28 or PE30. I already have the 125 main and 42 pilot i plan to use. Thanks

https://www.chinariders.net/showpost...09&postcount=7

I posted the solution for this. It is #7 in

https://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=31439
in the Video and Pics section.

Grind off the head, bowl comes right off...then the stem of the bolt is easy to extract. Yes, it has threadlocker, but still comes out.

[Thumper]

Originally Posted by clezummavrider

Nice - I am jealous of the easier to grip air/fuel screw on these

The OEM smoothbore Youall carburetor is a better carb. And the choke throttle linkage/connections are already in place, and it is already fit to the engine and airbox connections, and the jets are readily available.

The bike will run even without rejetting, and if you are at 2000-5000 ft, probably won't even need rejetting. But if you need to get into the bowl, it turns out that it is easy:

https://www.chinariders.net/showpost...09&postcount=7

Buy a new carburetor if you want to start all over, but frankly, that will be much more work, even if you have to rejet the OEM youall smoothbore carburetor. No need to replace it with a non-smoothbore carb. If you want a bigger idle adjust (slide height) screw, you can buy one of those separately.

[tknj99]

I agree, only swap out the jets of the stock carb unless you fuddle up the disassembly as i did or want to upgrade to a Nibbi which im unsure will net anything as far as performance. The carb i ordered after careful examination from pics (hopefully same when i get it) is exactly the same as the stock carb, no better, no worse. I'll update the thread after i receive it to confirm that's the case of course.

[Thumper]

I am in the middle of replacing the new 2022 and a half wiring harness. My fault. I caused a grounding and melted it somewhere (a wire or wires lined up with the ground wire in the harness). The black insulation on the ground wire was visibly deformed! I will write this up in my thread in the Video and Pics section next week.

I ended up removing the entire rear frame, which includes of course the airbox. I still marvel at the nice engineering and build quality of this bike. Zuumav is excellent. It isn't obvious from these photos, but getting the wiring connectors (stator, gear indicator, ground to engine, starter solenoid, wires to starter solenoid, routing the brake light switch) tucked in there after reinstalling the airbox snorkel needs to be done carefully! There is plenty of room, but only if you arrange it all-everything is tight in there!

I will find out if I burnt out the voltage regulator, or stator once I get it all back together. My next task (after lots of house work painting!) is to disassemble the wiring behind the headlamp. I might add some small metal plates to reposition the thing and make more room. It is way more tighter up there!!!





Well built enduro

[JRust]

Originally Posted by tknj99

Help! Despite having opened up a few of these youall tamper proof carbs on other bikes, this one wound up being a fail due to the screws being red locktited in, i wound up having to break the bowl off and now need to order a replacement. Which one for the Templar X (6-speed) a PE28 or PE30. I already have the 125 main and 42 pilot i plan to use. Thanks

I was also surprised by the red loctite on the carb. I ended up grinding off the top of the screws which allowed the bowl to be removed. I then used some vice grips to unscrew the studs. Replaced them with some screws from the hardware store.

[Thumper]

Originally Posted by JRust

I was also surprised by the red loctite on the carb. I ended up grinding off the top of the screws which allowed the bowl to be removed. I then used some vice grips to unscrew the studs. Replaced them with some screws from the hardware store.

Yup.

From my Temp X 2022 and a half thread in Videos and Pics

https://www.chinariders.net/showpost...09&postcount=7

[Flapango]

I just got my Templar X 250 6 spd last night and it is my first bike, I'll post a full review of it next week when I have ridden it more. But for now, I have a few questions to get me started. How much oil does it take? What oil should I use to oil the air filter? What's a good way to cover most of these exposed cords and connections? Where can I find information on how to work on this bike, this is my first bike ever and I'm willing to learn how to take care of and work on it but it seems very hard to find info on it. Anything you guys suggest I do, I rode it maybe 12 miles in the dirt today and it has another 5 just riding around my neighborhood.