Templar X 250

[chinazuki]

Originally Posted by Plump Kibbles

I can't say much for the Templar, but my Titan DLX stock muffler and the dampening plug - it's pretty darn quiet :

I am unfamiliar with that ...a DiY thing?

[chinazuki]

Are there wheels from any random bikes that might fit? TEMPLAR X
Are replacement wheels even available?

If you had to improve street driving on the templar, what would you do?

I will be honest, I bought it mainly for city/highway. I dont want to drive knobbys on the street.

Also, i want to make a faring and screen. Someone here has done such to a HAWK. I want do even more

thanks

[Blueridge boyieee]

Thumper, the bike looks great, even the right side of the frame…

Did you swap sprockets yet? Curious on the factory rpm at 55mph with the sixer and stock sprockets.

I hit a new snag, my Amazon tail tidy rubbed the plate on the tire. Took out the light and wiring, thank god the plate was still there. Rebuilt the tail mounting with brackets to extend the rear subframe, so far so good. Over 950 miles and still running strong, as most of the problems were my own doing. Going to revisit the steering stem and wheel bearings this week.

On the exhaust the Orion RBX performance pipe will fit with trimming and welding, everything fits with trimming and welding. If I were to have a do over on the exhaust I’d just cut cut the stock one and remove the cat. I think there’s a link in this massive thread to an Amazon Crf pipe that’s a close fit too.

Really impressed with the bike now that I can roll at 55 and be comfy; with the sprockets and rear tire, it’s safe on a two-lane with a 55 limit. Any interstate or dual-lane with traffic at 76+ mph is a no go.

I found a new Tenere 700 at my dealer and I’m jumping on it. It’ll be a massive weight increase but it’ll extend my range by many miles. And new mods to void another warranty…

[Thumper]

Originally Posted by chinazuki

Are there wheels from any random bikes that might fit? TEMPLAR X
Are replacement wheels even available?

If you had to improve street driving on the templar, what would you do?

I will be honest, I bought it mainly for city/highway. I dont want to drive knobbys on the street.

Also, i want to make a faring and screen. Someone here has done such to a HAWK. I want do even more

thanks

The mini-fairing on the Temp X is mounted low, but you may be able to install an extension. That may help deflect the wind.

New tires and gearing will be easy. I installed a JTR210 39T sprocket on the 5 speed. I haven't made any measurements, but the 6speed definitely has lower revs on the road. JTR210 is available with many choices. 40T or 42T might be good:
http://www.jtsprockets.com/catalogue/part/JTR210/

I had to grind off a cast shroud to increase by ONE tooth on the front. You probably don't need to do that on the 6speed.

Tires? You might want to stick with dual sport rather than going to a full on street tire (would look weird, for sure!). 21" Front Tires like the Shinko 244 or SR700, Kenda K270, IRC GP1 are all moderately priced. Dunlop D605 is on sale at Chaparral. Most of these also have 18" rear tires to match. Don't go too wide... just excess weight for this bike!

[chinazuki]

thanks, this all very new to me, and i much appreciate your wisdom...

have you seen a spec/description of the wheels?
I would like to swap wheels instead of just tires. The wheel diameter doesn't matter, and tire type really wont matter for this project at first.

Those shiny knobbys will make nice wall decoration until needed

I have not contacted PMS since the sale. Maybe they have replacement wheels?

[Thumper]

Originally Posted by chinazuki

thanks, this all very new to me, and i much appreciate your wisdom...

have you seen a spec/description of the wheels?
I would like to swap wheels instead of just tires. The wheel diameter doesn't matter, and tire type really wont matter for this project at first.

Those shiny knobbys will make nice wall decoration until needed

I have not contacted PMS since the sale. Maybe they have replacement wheels?

powersportsmax has replacement front and rear wheels. They sent me one (front) since the original one had a crack in the seal housing. I sent a photo to document the problem, and PSM sent a replacement. It is a laced (spokes) wheel, with bearings, center section, and both seals. You will have to buy a new brake rotor or move it to the new wheel. If you want rimlocks, available easy enough on ebay. My guess is maybe $100-$150 for each wheel. Send a request to PSM.

[tknj99]

I notice a vibration in the bike from 35mph onwards only when on street.. i trued the wheels as best i could and verified no bubble spots, hoping i can figure that out at some point and that its not a messed up wheel or wheels as was in your case

[BaneChonda]

Thanks Thumper and tknj99 for your prior replies.

My bike is now running after troubleshooting and fixing many problems from poor factory assembly and bad parts. These bikes are definitely not for the faint of heart and/or the non mechanically inclined. If anyone would like a full list of what all was/is wrong with mine out of the crate, let me know.

Quick question here for anyone with a 6 speed model (or 5 speed). Did/does yours have a metal on metal rub sound when not in the perfect RPM for each gear?

As soon as I’m not in a perfect (mid) RPM for the gear, or gaining RPM, it has a sound like something isn’t lubed. I wouldn’t think it would be my rear brake caliper misalignment issue as it seems to change with power and RPM. Hoping it’s just a break in of the clutch or something, but it sounds pretty junky when present to say the least. The engine sounds great at idle and mid powerband and either eliminates the sound or masks it. I get this noise when at speed even with the clutch pulled in as with coming to a stop when not engine braking.

Thanks in advance for any ideas folks.

[tknj99]

I had a metal buzzing noise and it turned out to be the exhaust heat shield vibrating. I removed it.

[kevperro]

Originally Posted by BaneChonda

Thanks Thumper and tknj99 for your prior replies.

My bike is now running after troubleshooting and fixing many problems from poor factory assembly and bad parts. These bikes are definitely not for the faint of heart and/or the non mechanically inclined. If anyone would like a full list of what all was/is wrong with mine out of the crate, let me know.

Quick question here for anyone with a 6 speed model (or 5 speed). Did/does yours have a metal on metal rub sound when not in the perfect RPM for each gear?

As soon as I’m not in a perfect (mid) RPM for the gear, or gaining RPM, it has a sound like something isn’t lubed. I wouldn’t think it would be my rear brake caliper misalignment issue as it seems to change with power and RPM. Hoping it’s just a break in of the clutch or something, but it sounds pretty junky when present to say the least. The engine sounds great at idle and mid powerband and either eliminates the sound or masks it. I get this noise when at speed even with the clutch pulled in as with coming to a stop when not engine braking.

Thanks in advance for any ideas folks.

Serve it up... it benefits everyone when you can share your experience.

[Thumper]

The brush guard on the lower side of the rear sprocket, and the plastic chain guide on the swingarm surface going into the front sprocket are both kind of noisy. I simply remove the brush guard, and make sure that you keep up with rear axel alignment and chain tension (about 2-2.5cm play at the center of the chain).

When I am breaking in a new engine (first ~200 miles), I don't lug it, but keep the rpm up generally above 1750-2000 and below 5000. I also don't do heavy acceleration, except midrange rpm, and kind of briefly. My five speed Templar is getting more work out now, and feels much more powerful!

I haven't driven the new 6speed enough to really assess things, but it is quite smooth, runs fine.

Regarding the rear brake binding... I actually swapped the wheels between my 5speed and 6speed. Problem gone for some reason. Why did I do this...???
I had replaced sprockets on the 5 speed (13T to 14T front, 49T to 39T rear) and installed an o-ring chain. I wanted to return the 5speed to lower gearing, so I put the new rear wheel (and new longer chain) on the 5 speed (now 14T front, 49T rear). THis is only slightly taller than stock (13T > 14T front). The new 6speed has the new oring chain, 13T front, 39T rear. I can really feel the taller gearing. But I haven't really been on the open road to really assess this swap on the new 6speed. The idea is to make the 5speed the enduro off-road bike, and the new 6speed will have luggage rack option, the counterbalanced engine and 6th gear. Also, I will put a Tusk DSport on the rear (smoother rolling, but excellent off-road).

[tknj99]

I think you'll find the 39T rear to be a bit too low especially when in 6th and up a highway grade.. but I haven't been pushing past 7k so perhaps winding out 5th will make the difference so as not to lose speed in 6th.. keep us posted

[Nutcracker]

Im going to see if I can order a rear wheel as suggested on earlier post.... I've found rims on EBay made by KK&E but maybe PSM is cheaper... The 42 tooth sprocket is to quick for me on trails. Motor produces great low end torque but my speed is a hair to fast. I wanting to swap back to factory 13 tooth and 49 rear when trailering to the farm... I Love the 42 tooth for hwy speeds 55mph to 60...

Anyone tried a Higher cranking amps battery to overcome decompressor starting sequence? I get tired of the starter stalling out at times. I'm thinking a battery upgrade might be the answer...

[clezummavrider]

Hi All, new templar owner here - have about 30 miles on it now (changed idle and main jet - carb screws were a PIA!) - few questions (if this is the wrong place to ask/discuss please let me know!):

- Has anyone felt the front forks are sticky? I've made sure to set the axle properly but it is still pretty stiff (even at lowest dampening settings).

- How do you get to the airbox? remove the left side panel?

- anyone experience tough shifting? I have tightened the slack out of the clutch a bit, which maybe helped, but it still has a hard time downshifting from 4th going down and selecting gears going up much of the time (I'm using honda GN4 10w40 maybe that's the culprit?)

- stalling: when coming to a stop in 5/6th gears it tends to stall. I drilled out the air fuel mixture screw and adjusted a bit maybe helped a little but it still happens. What is your air/fuel screw set at? Maybe clutch drag stalling out the engine at idle speed? Also an oil choice thing?

- rear shock feels soft as is out of the box - anyone increase their preload? any sag suggestions?

- anyone interested in a spreadsheet of info/mods? I'll put what I've done and any other info together to share if so UPDATE: Here's what I started please feel free to update with other info you think is helpful!

[Thumper]

Originally Posted by clezummavrider

Hi All, new templar owner here - have about 30 miles on it now (changed idle and main jet - carb screws were a PIA!) - few questions (if this is the wrong place to ask/discuss please let me know!):

- Has anyone felt the front forks are sticky? I've made sure to set the axle properly but it is still pretty stiff (even at lowest dampening settings).

**** I think the seals are TIGHT, and will break in over time. Just keep workin' them.

- How do you get to the airbox? remove the left side panel?

**** TWO 8mm bolts on each side of the seat. Pull the seat back and out. The dome shaped foam oiled filter is under there. Wingnut to remove.

- anyone experience tough shifting? I have tightened the slack out of the clutch a bit, which maybe helped, but it still has a hard time downshifting from 4th going down and selecting gears going up much of the time (I'm using honda GN4 10w40 maybe that's the culprit?)

**** This too will loosen up over time. Be patient and gentle during break-in. I have found that keeping pressure on the shift lever while releasing the clutch helps complete the shift on a fresh gearbox.

- stalling: when coming to a stop in 5/6th gears it tends to stall. I drilled out the air fuel mixture screw and adjusted a bit maybe helped a little but it still happens. What is your air/fuel screw set at? Maybe clutch drag stalling out the engine at idle speed? Also an oil choice thing?

**** I think this is a break in thing too. I have kept the slide adjuster screwed into a slightly elevated idle, which also keeps more oil pressure when at a stop light.

- rear shock feels soft as is out of the box - anyone increase their preload? any sag suggestions?

**** USE those compression and rebound damper adjustment screws (flathead screwdriver). They work. Find the beginning and the end of adjustment range and then set it at 3/4 of available steps, then advance if needed. The 36" seat height means a deliberate leg throw/mount! But it drops to 34" with my weight on it. Personally, I would like to add dog legs to lower it, then stiffen the preload. Preload stiffening will eliminate that sag if you really want a 36" stiff seat height!

- anyone interested in a spreadsheet of info/mods? I'll put what I've done and any other info together to share if so UPDATE: Here's what I started please feel free to update with other info you think is helpful!

Answers are up in the post ****


By the way, pull off the protective tape! Can't see the graphics!!