Just bought the hawk 250 dlx efi have a couple questions

Willv2 · 04-02-2021, 03:02 PM

I was looking around online for a dual sport helmet with dual visors and Bluetooth anybody know of some good ones? Also I will be taking this bike trail riding but it will be rode on the roads more so I will need to change over the sprockets what should I change them to? And where should I order them. Also I’ve heard the stock gauge cluster is not very accurate should I go ahead order a new cluster for it before it comes? What is a good phone holder for these bikes?

Willv2 · 04-02-2021, 03:03 PM

I would like to be able to ride 65 without it being hard on engine is that possible?

SilverBullet51 · 04-02-2021, 05:39 PM

All the speedometers are off a tad. The one on the dlx is digital, I wouldn't worry about switching it out. If you are worried about it download a free gps speedometer for your phone and compare the two, most are within 4-5mph. I think you'd be fine switching to a 17tooth sprocket in the front. Although you may find the stock gearing to be ok for the roads near you. I'm not sure what size chain the dlx has, but you should be able to get a sprocket on amazon.

idle_purr · 04-02-2021, 06:16 PM

I heard 16f 43r is the best gearing for 50/50 riders, my riding situation is similar to yours, though i haven't changed my gears yet. Seems like a good Megadan question.

Here are some links below, keep in mind you can order different sizes, just go with a set that is 20mm.

Front Gear
Rear Gear

The stock cluster on the DLX is as good as any of the clusters out there, so you should get the fairest results with that.

Phone Holder

As far as helmets go, I have a Zoan Synchrony Duo and it's pretty sweet. It has openings around the ear for Bluetooth devices. It has a face shield and a sun visor.

You might also want to consider a new plug, changing your exhaust and adding a power commander.

Plug
Exhaust
Power Commander

Megadan · 04-02-2021, 07:07 PM

I am unfamiliar with the Hawk DLX sprockets, so it is hard for me to give advice. At the end of the day the only real advice I could give would be to see how the DLX performs stock. The standard Hawk often gets different sprockets installed because it comes geared very short to make it a good off road bike. The DLX, as I understand it, is geared a bit better from the start. The issue is I have never heard or seen what the standard sprocket specs are.

Bill Hilly · 04-02-2021, 10:41 PM

I figured the reason the speed O was so far off on the Brozz was the fact that it has smaller diameter tires. I am surprised to hear that it is off on the Hawk as well. On a different note, It would stand to reason that a Hawk with the same sprocket set up would run less rpm than a bike with the same sprocket set up, and smaller diameter tires, running equal speed in the same gear.

Spun_Zombie · 04-03-2021, 11:51 AM

I have a DLX EFI hawk. Before you change anything on it break the engine in, you'll see a significant increase in power and responsiveness from the engine after 500 miles or so and it'll actually be broken in after a solid 1k. Change the shipping oil out before you start it, then change every couple 100 miles for the first 1k . The entire assembly is full of crud from manufacturing, the small bit of extra work and oil now will save you lots of work in the future. Do your valves at 500, it's extremely simple to do on this bike and is necessary after it's had that break in. You can check them before the 500 but unless something is very wrong i'd wait close to 500 to set them.

Sprockets and Chains: The chain that came stock on mine was of the highest grade chinesium and should have been replaced at 1000 miles, I managed to eeak a bit over 2k out of it but that was astoundingly stupid, never put off chain replacement or maintenance. plan to replace your chain after you break it in. The stock sprockets after 2k look almost brand new which is a testament to just how soft the chain material is lol. The stock sprockets seem to be good quality parts, which surprised me as I assumed it would be one of the cost saving parts they'd use hopefully everyone is getting good sprockets now.

I've just recently changed gearing with a 17t up from 15t front and a 45t rear down from a 50t. First gear is actually usable now ! I commute and trail ride, I haven't done a serious hill climb since I switched but I do expect I'll actually need proper clutch work for a steep hill climb now vs stock setup stick it in second and just keep it from stalling which I'll admit was hilarious and if I lived in the Rockies I'd keep those stock.

The one major issue I have and I assume anyone with the EFI bike will have with a 17f 45r setup is the ECU governing the top speed. Prior to changing gears I could flog that poor air cooled push-rod 230cc to a hair over 70 mph if I wanted to not just flirt with but get handsy with the red line. After the sprocket swap I can comfortably run 50 in 4th gear but in 5th at 60 mph I'm under 7k and the ECU couldn't care less about throttle input it want's to retire and live out its days there. I need to do more research but I'm assuming it's doing a simple variable check of mph/rpm and with the lower rpm at that speed it's deciding to kick govern in as I have a fair bit of throttle left and I can still flog the shit out of it in 1st-4th and stick in the red on trails. The bike has a fairly simplistic ECU and I'm guessing here but I'd assume a pretty basic map. Until you do some research about flashing or replacing the stock ECU I wouldn't change much, I especially wouldn't screw with the exhaust or intake as it's not a carb and without flashing you can only make things worse.

The only Upgrades, like honest to god upgrades not just parts thrown at it I think everyone should consider out of the box are. Brighter and or more lights. Brake lights for any public road driving (You want everyone to know you're scrubbing speed no mater how far up their phones ass they are) and all the lights if you ride at night as the stock one is just enough to film a good horror movie or see the deer you're about to aggressively snuggle. A decent sealed battery if your going to flog it off road (it will save you from rust hell). And if you plan to trail ride either a decent after market shift lever or just cut the goofy peg off the stock one and bend the chinesium into a protected and usable shape. A shift leaver is cheap compared to the cost of repairing a cracked housing or worse when you catch a beefy lever on anything .

Oh and obviously the most important things to get if you are new to ridding a GOOD,well fitting helmet with at minimum an ECE rating as DOT is a joke(if it's under $100 it's shit if it has built in comms and Bluetooth and under $600 it's shit and built in comms are about useless anyway as no mater what you lid you buy it will never be what your friends have . Aftermarket comms are good and cheep most the time though a set of ear plugs will be best . Get a helmet without electronics and with actual safety features for around $200 I'm on my second O'Neal Sierra it's not perfect by any means but it'll keep your melon in one piece if you bounce it off a tree and is under $150, a good full face Bell is another solid choice if your head shape works with it. (and have someone who races dirt or vroom vroom help you size it for fit, not a salesman, cruiser guy, and just avoid the guy in full body day-glow) and a good set of ridding gloves, you're going to dump your bike if you're new, you're going to dump it if your a 40 year pro, and the number one injury that is easily avoidable is ripping all the flesh off your palms and that shit sucks. Good ridding gloves are like $40 and worth every dime, they also make ridding a thumper less fatiguing which helps keep you from squeezing the shit out of your grips and getting bad arm pump to the point of wrecking. Get some decent boots like alpinestars tech7 or fly fr5's under $200 with full hard case if your going to trail riding as broken legs are the second most common easily avoidable trail injury and a good pair of boots will stop 99% of the common low speed leg crushers and keep your toes attached when you forget to tuck your toes in tight spots. You don't need special boots if your not on trails but try and avoid flip flops as putting your piggies in the sprocket will screw up your day.

Welp, that's a ton of text. Hope it wasn't useless and Congrats on getting a bike, these Hawks really are great value for the money. I've had many thumpers and the people who say get a used jap bike for the price are full of it. Yes these have some flaws but nothing like a MUST SALE NOW special price bike that has been ridden hard and put a way wet for 15 years.

Willv2 · 04-04-2021, 01:38 PM

Hey thanks everybody for the advice and tips appreciate it.

CSR_Sprocket · 09-11-2021, 03:21 AM

As Spun_Zombie suggests, leave things stock until after break-in. Even after break-in do NOT monkey with the exhaust on a DLX. Anyone suggesting that you replace or modify it is spreading misinformation.

The Engine Control Module (ECM) uses the O2 sensor to determine how much fuel to spray into the intake. Rip the O2 sensor out of the equation and you have no idea what the ECM is going to do. But if anyone reading this has documented proof of what the ECM will do please chime in here...

CSR_Sprocket · 09-11-2021, 03:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Spun_Zombie

I have a DLX EFI hawk.

The one major issue I have and I assume anyone with the EFI bike will have with a 17f 45r setup is the ECU governing the top speed. Prior to changing gears I could flog that poor air cooled push-rod 230cc to a hair over 70 mph if I wanted to not just flirt with but get handsy with the red line. After the sprocket swap I can comfortably run 50 in 4th gear but in 5th at 60 mph I'm under 7k and the ECU couldn't care less about throttle input it want's to retire and live out its days there. I need to do more research but I'm assuming it's doing a simple variable check of mph/rpm and with the lower rpm at that speed it's deciding to kick govern in as I have a fair bit of throttle left and I can still flog the shit out of it in 1st-4th and stick in the red on trails. The bike has a fairly simplistic ECU and I'm guessing here but I'd assume a pretty basic map. Until you do some research about flashing or replacing the stock ECU I wouldn't change much, I especially wouldn't screw with the exhaust or intake as it's not a carb and without flashing you can only make things worse.

I have the same experience running a 17/40 sprocket set on my DLX. My guess is that the ECM is performing a version of traction control when the bike is in 5th gear. It's comparing input from the front wheel rotation sensor with the speed of the countershaft (transmission output shaft that the front sprocket is bolted to). If the two speeds are outside an expected ratio then it thinks that the rear tire has lost traction. It then retards engine power output to prevent further danger or damage.

I admit that I have no documentation to support this. Just a hunch.

Badluck · 09-11-2021, 09:02 AM

I'm running the carb Hawk and 17 / 43. Stock engine, decently tuned engine and aftermarket exhaust.

It hits a brick wall at 6500 in fifth. I think that's the point where drag and all the other mechanical losses equalize with the HP.

04-02-2021, 03:02 PM	#1
Willv2 Join Date: Mar 2021 Posts: 29	Just bought the hawk 250 dlx efi have a couple questions I was looking around online for a dual sport helmet with dual visors and Bluetooth anybody know of some good ones? Also I will be taking this bike trail riding but it will be rode on the roads more so I will need to change over the sprockets what should I change them to? And where should I order them. Also I’ve heard the stock gauge cluster is not very accurate should I go ahead order a new cluster for it before it comes? What is a good phone holder for these bikes?
	0

04-02-2021, 06:16 PM	#4
idle_purr Join Date: Feb 2021 Location: NY Posts: 218	I heard 16f 43r is the best gearing for 50/50 riders, my riding situation is similar to yours, though i haven't changed my gears yet. Seems like a good Megadan question. Here are some links below, keep in mind you can order different sizes, just go with a set that is 20mm. Front Gear Rear Gear The stock cluster on the DLX is as good as any of the clusters out there, so you should get the fairest results with that. Phone Holder As far as helmets go, I have a Zoan Synchrony Duo and it's pretty sweet. It has openings around the ear for Bluetooth devices. It has a face shield and a sun visor. You might also want to consider a new plug, changing your exhaust and adding a power commander. Plug Exhaust Power Commander __________________ NO HILL TOO STEEP NO MUD TOO DEEP The Brozz \| The Hawk Upgrades, Accessories, Etc... Assembly Checklist: Brozz 250 \| Hawk 250 ~idle_purr
	0

04-02-2021, 07:07 PM	#5
Megadan Join Date: Apr 2017 Location: Omaha, NE Posts: 8,028	I am unfamiliar with the Hawk DLX sprockets, so it is hard for me to give advice. At the end of the day the only real advice I could give would be to see how the DLX performs stock. The standard Hawk often gets different sprockets installed because it comes geared very short to make it a good off road bike. The DLX, as I understand it, is geared a bit better from the start. The issue is I have never heard or seen what the standard sprocket specs are. __________________ Hawk Information and Resource guide: http://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=20331 2018 Hawk 250 - Full Mod list here. http://www.chinariders.net/showpost....62&postcount=1 2024 Royal Enfield Shotgun 650 https://chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=34124
	1

09-11-2021, 03:21 AM	#9
CSR_Sprocket Join Date: Oct 2015 Location: Post-industrial wastelands near Albany NY. Posts: 45	As Spun_Zombie suggests, leave things stock until after break-in. Even after break-in do NOT monkey with the exhaust on a DLX. Anyone suggesting that you replace or modify it is spreading misinformation. The Engine Control Module (ECM) uses the O2 sensor to determine how much fuel to spray into the intake. Rip the O2 sensor out of the equation and you have no idea what the ECM is going to do. But if anyone reading this has documented proof of what the ECM will do please chime in here... __________________ The short list: 2011 Suzuki Boulevard C50T 2021 Chongqing Liyang Jiayu Hawk 250 DLX EFI 2017 TaoTao CY50-B scooter 79cc big bore kit - 45 MPH! (sold) 2015 Haosen Hawk (sold) 2002 Honda XR100R - project bike almost done. 2013 V-Strom 650 Adventure (sold )-: If I listed every bike that I've ever owned you'd either 1) Get bored 2) Be somewhat envious, or 3) Wonder: "What's wrong with that guy?"
	0

04-02-2021, 03:03 PM	#2
Willv2 Join Date: Mar 2021 Posts: 29	I would like to be able to ride 65 without it being hard on engine is that possible?
	0

04-02-2021, 05:39 PM	#3
SilverBullet51 Join Date: Apr 2017 Location: Plainwell, MI Posts: 60	All the speedometers are off a tad. The one on the dlx is digital, I wouldn't worry about switching it out. If you are worried about it download a free gps speedometer for your phone and compare the two, most are within 4-5mph. I think you'd be fine switching to a 17tooth sprocket in the front. Although you may find the stock gearing to be ok for the roads near you. I'm not sure what size chain the dlx has, but you should be able to get a sprocket on amazon.
	0

04-02-2021, 10:41 PM	#6
Bill Hilly Join Date: Feb 2021 Posts: 946	I figured the reason the speed O was so far off on the Brozz was the fact that it has smaller diameter tires. I am surprised to hear that it is off on the Hawk as well. On a different note, It would stand to reason that a Hawk with the same sprocket set up would run less rpm than a bike with the same sprocket set up, and smaller diameter tires, running equal speed in the same gear.
	0

04-03-2021, 11:51 AM	#7
Spun_Zombie Join Date: Mar 2021 Posts: 4	I have a DLX EFI hawk. Before you change anything on it break the engine in, you'll see a significant increase in power and responsiveness from the engine after 500 miles or so and it'll actually be broken in after a solid 1k. Change the shipping oil out before you start it, then change every couple 100 miles for the first 1k . The entire assembly is full of crud from manufacturing, the small bit of extra work and oil now will save you lots of work in the future. Do your valves at 500, it's extremely simple to do on this bike and is necessary after it's had that break in. You can check them before the 500 but unless something is very wrong i'd wait close to 500 to set them. Sprockets and Chains: The chain that came stock on mine was of the highest grade chinesium and should have been replaced at 1000 miles, I managed to eeak a bit over 2k out of it but that was astoundingly stupid, never put off chain replacement or maintenance. plan to replace your chain after you break it in. The stock sprockets after 2k look almost brand new which is a testament to just how soft the chain material is lol. The stock sprockets seem to be good quality parts, which surprised me as I assumed it would be one of the cost saving parts they'd use hopefully everyone is getting good sprockets now. I've just recently changed gearing with a 17t up from 15t front and a 45t rear down from a 50t. First gear is actually usable now ! I commute and trail ride, I haven't done a serious hill climb since I switched but I do expect I'll actually need proper clutch work for a steep hill climb now vs stock setup stick it in second and just keep it from stalling which I'll admit was hilarious and if I lived in the Rockies I'd keep those stock. The one major issue I have and I assume anyone with the EFI bike will have with a 17f 45r setup is the ECU governing the top speed. Prior to changing gears I could flog that poor air cooled push-rod 230cc to a hair over 70 mph if I wanted to not just flirt with but get handsy with the red line. After the sprocket swap I can comfortably run 50 in 4th gear but in 5th at 60 mph I'm under 7k and the ECU couldn't care less about throttle input it want's to retire and live out its days there. I need to do more research but I'm assuming it's doing a simple variable check of mph/rpm and with the lower rpm at that speed it's deciding to kick govern in as I have a fair bit of throttle left and I can still flog the shit out of it in 1st-4th and stick in the red on trails. The bike has a fairly simplistic ECU and I'm guessing here but I'd assume a pretty basic map. Until you do some research about flashing or replacing the stock ECU I wouldn't change much, I especially wouldn't screw with the exhaust or intake as it's not a carb and without flashing you can only make things worse. The only Upgrades, like honest to god upgrades not just parts thrown at it I think everyone should consider out of the box are. Brighter and or more lights. Brake lights for any public road driving (You want everyone to know you're scrubbing speed no mater how far up their phones ass they are) and all the lights if you ride at night as the stock one is just enough to film a good horror movie or see the deer you're about to aggressively snuggle. A decent sealed battery if your going to flog it off road (it will save you from rust hell). And if you plan to trail ride either a decent after market shift lever or just cut the goofy peg off the stock one and bend the chinesium into a protected and usable shape. A shift leaver is cheap compared to the cost of repairing a cracked housing or worse when you catch a beefy lever on anything . Oh and obviously the most important things to get if you are new to ridding a GOOD,well fitting helmet with at minimum an ECE rating as DOT is a joke(if it's under $100 it's shit if it has built in comms and Bluetooth and under $600 it's shit and built in comms are about useless anyway as no mater what you lid you buy it will never be what your friends have . Aftermarket comms are good and cheep most the time though a set of ear plugs will be best . Get a helmet without electronics and with actual safety features for around $200 I'm on my second O'Neal Sierra it's not perfect by any means but it'll keep your melon in one piece if you bounce it off a tree and is under $150, a good full face Bell is another solid choice if your head shape works with it. (and have someone who races dirt or vroom vroom help you size it for fit, not a salesman, cruiser guy, and just avoid the guy in full body day-glow) and a good set of ridding gloves, you're going to dump your bike if you're new, you're going to dump it if your a 40 year pro, and the number one injury that is easily avoidable is ripping all the flesh off your palms and that shit sucks. Good ridding gloves are like $40 and worth every dime, they also make ridding a thumper less fatiguing which helps keep you from squeezing the shit out of your grips and getting bad arm pump to the point of wrecking. Get some decent boots like alpinestars tech7 or fly fr5's under $200 with full hard case if your going to trail riding as broken legs are the second most common easily avoidable trail injury and a good pair of boots will stop 99% of the common low speed leg crushers and keep your toes attached when you forget to tuck your toes in tight spots. You don't need special boots if your not on trails but try and avoid flip flops as putting your piggies in the sprocket will screw up your day. Welp, that's a ton of text. Hope it wasn't useless and Congrats on getting a bike, these Hawks really are great value for the money. I've had many thumpers and the people who say get a used jap bike for the price are full of it. Yes these have some flaws but nothing like a MUST SALE NOW special price bike that has been ridden hard and put a way wet for 15 years.
	3

04-04-2021, 01:38 PM	#8
Willv2 Join Date: Mar 2021 Posts: 29	Hey thanks everybody for the advice and tips appreciate it.
	0

09-11-2021, 09:02 AM	#11
Badluck Join Date: Jun 2021 Posts: 80	I'm running the carb Hawk and 17 / 43. Stock engine, decently tuned engine and aftermarket exhaust. It hits a brick wall at 6500 in fifth. I think that's the point where drag and all the other mechanical losses equalize with the HP.
	1