It finally came!!!

JakeD · 01-18-2021, 09:24 PM

The TBR-7 is mostly kinda assembled in my garage... however it didn’t come nearly as assembled as the interwebz videos show. Does anyone have a link to technical drawings for it? I have a bevy of spare nuts bolts and mystery washers on my garage floor and no videos to bail me out.

BuffaloChinaRider · 01-18-2021, 09:31 PM

Congrats on the new bike. I love the smell of the bike right out of the box lol Just a heads up even after you assemble the bike you'll have spare nuts/bolts. It is mostly self explanatory but if you run into serious assembly issues and you really have no idea, there's a few videos on youtube with tbr7 being assembled. Anything else you can post a pic here and we will help with what certain things are for or assembly. Good luck!

TxTaoRider · 01-18-2021, 10:25 PM

I was a little disappointed when I was finished putting my tbr7 together, I didn't have any "extra" parts... I thought I had done something wrong. Lol

Seriously, I think the only part that they did give me that wasn't quite right was the washer for the brake lever. It was too big and although I could've used it, I didn't like how the cotter pin would've barely held it. I ended up finding a machine bushing at Tractor Supply and making the hole a little larger for a snug fit.

Just for reference, did yours come with the sealed battery and 530 gold chain (and led lights , USB charger, folding gear lever, and engine guard)?

JakeD · 01-18-2021, 11:41 PM

Sealed battery and an engine guard... otherwise, no extra fun things.

TxTaoRider · 01-19-2021, 05:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JakeD

Sealed battery and an engine guard... otherwise, no extra fun things.

Amazing. I wonder why the standard equipment varies some much on the 2021 tbr7?

culcune · 01-19-2021, 09:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TxTaoRider

Amazing. I wonder why the standard equipment varies some much on the 2021 tbr7?

The last year or two, 'power' online dealers have been trying to create 'unique' products that are only available through them, even though the bike is the same one. Powerportsmax.com is a good example of this by creating stickers and graphics for some bikes and calling them the 'X-Pro (name, e.g. Hawk)'. They have the X-Pro Hawk and X-Pro Vader as two examples. I believe you bought yours through TXPowersports, and they seem to be making their mark with features unique to them. At this time, it seems that Powersportsmax is the only 'power' dealer with their own branding, but features unique to different 'power' dealers are becoming more and more the norm.

T1jeep · 01-19-2021, 06:19 PM

Building first bike. Trying to get advice on what bolts to loctite and what doesn’t get it?
Do the bolts on engine need it that hold valve cover, do the brake screws need it?

What all should I apply it to?

**JerryHawk250** · 01-20-2021, 07:58 AM

No need to loctite the engine bolts. They will be fine. Do loctite all bolts that hold on things like trim, fenders, passenger pegs and brake calibers. I've lost a bolt on the front brake caliber while riding off road. amazingly my daughter spotted the bolt in the sand and ask "what's this for?" .

alex_in_az · 01-20-2021, 08:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JerryHawk250

No need to loctite the engine bolts. They will be fine. Do loctite all bolts that hold on things like trim, fenders, passenger pegs and brake calibers. I've lost a bolt on the front brake caliber while riding off road. amazingly my daughter spotted the bolt in the sand and ask "what's this for?" .

+1 on the front brake caliper bolts, had the top one vibrate out on me

TxTaoRider · 01-20-2021, 09:37 AM

Years ago I read an interview with some GNCC champion and they asked if they had any advise and they said "Locktite red on everything". Lol

T1jeep · 01-20-2021, 07:52 PM

Thanks. I guess if I put on too many places I will figure out the first time I take off the bolt which ones I didn’t need it on.

I guess I wasn’t thinking axle bolts and carb bolts but I will do it.

Megadan · 01-20-2021, 08:32 PM

Some basic wisdom when it comes to loctite and fasteners.

1. If it already has a nylock or stover nut (front and rear axle nuts, most engine mounts (there is one exception) or a lock washer. then it will not need loctite. Just give them a quick check for peace of mind.

2. If it is not one of the above, then there are two categories of bolts. Non critical include things like the panel screws. If they fall out it will be an inconvenience, but it won't be a serious safety issue.

The Critical fasteners are easy to figure out. Ask yourself, "If this bolt falls out/off will i be in a world of shit?" World of Shit = you will crash or otherwise be in serious trouble.
These types of fasteners include, pretty much any and every brake related fastener. The bolts that hold the headlight on. Lever perch and pivot hardware. Handlebar clamp bolts. etc.

Going back to the one engine mount that does need some attention, the upper rear left side engine mount plate that ties the motor to the frame. Those bolts need either lock washers added, or loctite. I speak from personal experience on that one.

Also, do not use red loctite. Blue is perfectly fine. Like with any motorcycle you just need to do an occasional safety check. Often during an oil change, or every other oil change you can quickly check the fasteners for the critical things.

Also, at a minimum check your spokes and tighten them after the first few hundred miles. They WILL come loose, and if you don't do this, you will eventually have a rim bend.

For a lot of the torque specs, if you are a torque spec kind of person, you can use either the Brozz or TT250 specs - Found both here or in the CSC TT250 tutorials.

GronkFries · 01-20-2021, 09:40 PM

"The Vulcan High Council has determined that time travel is impossible"

Translates to:

"You should never use red loctite on a motorcycle"

I agree with Megadan fasteners should be checked during maintenance intervals, the best time to do it. Maybe I have had a different experience than many of you, but I have also found that after tightening a loose bolt a lot of the time it doesn't loosen again. Especially if I just tighten without taking it out and pondering/lamenting/inspecting/cleaning/forum checking/friend calling/conducting conspiracy research. Yes, maybe a trouble one here and there but nothing excessive.

Megadan · 01-20-2021, 09:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GronkFries

"The Vulcan High Council has determined that time travel is impossible"

Translates to:

"You should never use red loctite on a motorcycle"

I agree with Megadan fasteners should be checked during maintenance intervals, the best time to do it. Maybe I have had a different experience than many of you, but I have also found that after tightening a loose bolt a lot of the time it doesn't loosen again. Especially if I just tighten without taking it out and pondering/lamenting/inspecting/cleaning/forum checking/friend calling/conducting conspiracy research. Yes, maybe a trouble one here and there but nothing excessive.

Maybe I should rephrase. There is absolutely zero need to use high strength loctite on any fastener on a motorcycle. In all of the bikes I have ever worked on, there is only one example where the FSM actually stated to use it. Most of the time, when a thread locking compound is needed, it is universally a medium strength, or equivalent, which in Loctite brand thread locker, is blue. The main variation between medium compounds, including special OE variants, comes down to oil reisistance, temp threshold, etc.

I have 3 types of medium strength loctite in my tool box. 242, 243, and 2422. 243 is 242 with a slightly higher temp range (360 vs 300) better oil resistance, and is less surface sensitive (useable with plated fasteners with greater holding and no need for primer). This is the one I recommend. 242 works just fine though, but in my experience just doesn't hold quite as well long term.

2422 is actually what I use on brake bolts and other fasteners in potentially higher temp scenarios, including some bolts fastened to engines. It has a temp range of 650 degrees F. It's an acrylic paste, so it is a bit weirder to work with, but I have had great success with it.

One big reason I avoid using High Strength (Red in Loctite brand) has a lot to do with the fact that many of these fasteners screw into aluminum. Yes, if you heat it enough it will release, but the heat required is enough to potentially damage paint, nearby rubber bits, etc. Plus, even with heat, I have seen high strength assist in removing threads from the aluminum.

This is just my 2 cents, for whatever it is worth. At the end of the day do whatever you want to with your bike.

GronkFries · 01-20-2021, 10:23 PM

If I remember correctly you are a machinist and would most likely understand the proper application for different threadlocking compounds. And also be passionate about how to use them and where they work best. But that was my point. If someone doesn't understand exactly what something does they shouldn't use it. I'm slightly mechanically inclined but still understand the dangers of misuse and my own past experience/ignorance.

When I typed my post I was exactly thinking of aluminum and the impact of a high strength fastener. I figured it was best just to say not to use it lol. I worked on heavy equipment for years and red loctite on a bolt needed to be heated up for it to come out easy, if at all without damage.

So I couldn't recommend anybody to just do whatever they want with their bike. Either know what a threadlocking compound does or don't use it. Just tightening it (With torque wrench) and doing nothing else will provide better odds.

01-18-2021, 09:24 PM	#1
JakeD Join Date: Apr 2020 Posts: 31	It finally came!!! The TBR-7 is mostly kinda assembled in my garage... however it didn’t come nearly as assembled as the interwebz videos show. Does anyone have a link to technical drawings for it? I have a bevy of spare nuts bolts and mystery washers on my garage floor and no videos to bail me out.
	0

01-18-2021, 09:31 PM	#2
BuffaloChinaRider Join Date: Feb 2020 Location: Buffalo NY Posts: 224	Congrats on the new bike. I love the smell of the bike right out of the box lol Just a heads up even after you assemble the bike you'll have spare nuts/bolts. It is mostly self explanatory but if you run into serious assembly issues and you really have no idea, there's a few videos on youtube with tbr7 being assembled. Anything else you can post a pic here and we will help with what certain things are for or assembly. Good luck! __________________ BuffaloChinaRider on Youtube Bashan Storm 250 (2018) Apollo Db-36 Deluxe (2019)
	0

01-18-2021, 10:25 PM	#3
TxTaoRider Join Date: Oct 2020 Location: Flower Mound Texas Posts: 904	I was a little disappointed when I was finished putting my tbr7 together, I didn't have any "extra" parts... I thought I had done something wrong. Lol Seriously, I think the only part that they did give me that wasn't quite right was the washer for the brake lever. It was too big and although I could've used it, I didn't like how the cotter pin would've barely held it. I ended up finding a machine bushing at Tractor Supply and making the hole a little larger for a snug fit. Just for reference, did yours come with the sealed battery and 530 gold chain (and led lights , USB charger, folding gear lever, and engine guard)? __________________ 2021 Tao Tbr7 - "Lucille" Mods so far- Brozz swingarm, 21" front rim (Bridgestone Tw302 rear/Dunlop D606 front tires), Digital gauge cluster, pz30b pumper carb, after market hand guards, aftermarket brake and clutch levers, round fold away mirrors, Fly handlebars shortened slightly, 13t front sprocket 2009 Q-link Legacy 250 1982 Suzuki GS1100ES - "Jolene"
	0

01-20-2021, 07:58 AM	#8
JerryHawk250 Moderator Join Date: Oct 2016 Location: Houma, La. Posts: 11,574	No need to loctite the engine bolts. They will be fine. Do loctite all bolts that hold on things like trim, fenders, passenger pegs and brake calibers. I've lost a bolt on the front brake caliber while riding off road. amazingly my daughter spotted the bolt in the sand and ask "what's this for?" . __________________ 2023 Lifan Lycan 250 Chopper 2023 Venom Evader 2022 Lifan KPX250 2020 Kawasaki Vulcan S 2004 Honda ST 1300 2016 Black Hawk 250 (sold) Keihin PE30 carb,125 main,38 slow.Pod filter,ported & decked head 10:1 CR,Direct Ignition Coil,15/40Sprockets,NGK DPR8EIX-9,De-Cat,Dual Oil Cooler,Digital Cluster 2016 Cazador180 XL 2014 Coolster150 JerryHawk250.com My YouTube Channel
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01-20-2021, 09:37 AM	#10
TxTaoRider Join Date: Oct 2020 Location: Flower Mound Texas Posts: 904	Years ago I read an interview with some GNCC champion and they asked if they had any advise and they said "Locktite red on everything". Lol __________________ 2021 Tao Tbr7 - "Lucille" Mods so far- Brozz swingarm, 21" front rim (Bridgestone Tw302 rear/Dunlop D606 front tires), Digital gauge cluster, pz30b pumper carb, after market hand guards, aftermarket brake and clutch levers, round fold away mirrors, Fly handlebars shortened slightly, 13t front sprocket 2009 Q-link Legacy 250 1982 Suzuki GS1100ES - "Jolene"
	0

01-18-2021, 11:41 PM	#4
JakeD Join Date: Apr 2020 Posts: 31	Sealed battery and an engine guard... otherwise, no extra fun things.
	0

01-19-2021, 06:19 PM	#7
T1jeep Join Date: Jan 2021 Posts: 29	Building first bike. Trying to get advice on what bolts to loctite and what doesn’t get it? Do the bolts on engine need it that hold valve cover, do the brake screws need it? What all should I apply it to?
	0

01-20-2021, 07:52 PM	#11
T1jeep Join Date: Jan 2021 Posts: 29	Thanks. I guess if I put on too many places I will figure out the first time I take off the bolt which ones I didn’t need it on. I guess I wasn’t thinking axle bolts and carb bolts but I will do it.
	0

01-20-2021, 08:32 PM	#12
Megadan Join Date: Apr 2017 Location: Omaha, NE Posts: 8,034	Some basic wisdom when it comes to loctite and fasteners. 1. If it already has a nylock or stover nut (front and rear axle nuts, most engine mounts (there is one exception) or a lock washer. then it will not need loctite. Just give them a quick check for peace of mind. 2. If it is not one of the above, then there are two categories of bolts. Non critical include things like the panel screws. If they fall out it will be an inconvenience, but it won't be a serious safety issue. The Critical fasteners are easy to figure out. Ask yourself, "If this bolt falls out/off will i be in a world of shit?" World of Shit = you will crash or otherwise be in serious trouble. These types of fasteners include, pretty much any and every brake related fastener. The bolts that hold the headlight on. Lever perch and pivot hardware. Handlebar clamp bolts. etc. Going back to the one engine mount that does need some attention, the upper rear left side engine mount plate that ties the motor to the frame. Those bolts need either lock washers added, or loctite. I speak from personal experience on that one. Also, do not use red loctite. Blue is perfectly fine. Like with any motorcycle you just need to do an occasional safety check. Often during an oil change, or every other oil change you can quickly check the fasteners for the critical things. Also, at a minimum check your spokes and tighten them after the first few hundred miles. They WILL come loose, and if you don't do this, you will eventually have a rim bend. For a lot of the torque specs, if you are a torque spec kind of person, you can use either the Brozz or TT250 specs - Found both here or in the CSC TT250 tutorials. __________________ Hawk Information and Resource guide: http://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=20331 2018 Hawk 250 - Full Mod list here. http://www.chinariders.net/showpost....62&postcount=1 2024 Royal Enfield Shotgun 650 https://chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=34124
	3

01-20-2021, 09:40 PM	#13
GronkFries Join Date: May 2019 Location: Maine Posts: 111	"The Vulcan High Council has determined that time travel is impossible" Translates to: "You should never use red loctite on a motorcycle" I agree with Megadan fasteners should be checked during maintenance intervals, the best time to do it. Maybe I have had a different experience than many of you, but I have also found that after tightening a loose bolt a lot of the time it doesn't loosen again. Especially if I just tighten without taking it out and pondering/lamenting/inspecting/cleaning/forum checking/friend calling/conducting conspiracy research. Yes, maybe a trouble one here and there but nothing excessive.
	0

01-20-2021, 10:23 PM	#15
GronkFries Join Date: May 2019 Location: Maine Posts: 111	If I remember correctly you are a machinist and would most likely understand the proper application for different threadlocking compounds. And also be passionate about how to use them and where they work best. But that was my point. If someone doesn't understand exactly what something does they shouldn't use it. I'm slightly mechanically inclined but still understand the dangers of misuse and my own past experience/ignorance. When I typed my post I was exactly thinking of aluminum and the impact of a high strength fastener. I figured it was best just to say not to use it lol. I worked on heavy equipment for years and red loctite on a bolt needed to be heated up for it to come out easy, if at all without damage. So I couldn't recommend anybody to just do whatever they want with their bike. Either know what a threadlocking compound does or don't use it. Just tightening it (With torque wrench) and doing nothing else will provide better odds.
	1