tt250 wire harness - Page 2

SensuBeanCartel · 09-26-2019, 07:36 PM

Everything’s looks to be lining up , flywheel is in, stator is in, cover is on , TDC on compression stroke holds true , everything appers to have gone right so far. Electrical harness comes in tomorrow.

Megadan · 09-27-2019, 04:30 AM

So far I am not shocked at all by any of this working. Then again I do more than just guess.

Good work so far.

As far as the reg/rec. is concerned, you should have 3 charge wires, power and ground. The unit the Hawk uses has 2 charge wires, power, ground, and a sense/Regulating circuit (black wire). The FH022 and most other 3 wire reg/recs are self regulating, so simply cap off the black wire to prevent it shorting. The reg/rec function will be separate from the cdi.

I am curious about the nature of the CDI of the Hawk. So many people say it's AC. but neither of my Hawks would run without a battery, which indicates a DC system. If that is the case, then that will really simplify things.

In truth, you can upgrade the stator, flywheel, and regulator/rectifier without changing anything else about the Hawk's wiring outside of a connector or two related to those systems. I wired up a 3 wire reg/rec to my last Hawk using only 2 of the 3 connections and eliminating the sense circuit and it worked just fine, just had to change connectors to suit the new reg/rec.

SensuBeanCartel · 09-27-2019, 04:43 AM

Yea I saw on a post you and another had done that but I didn’t wanna use the shindengen on the stock charging system , I was also worried just in case that the tt250s wiring was a little beefier or maybe better quality, but like you said it should be fine without the harness as the regulator is directly wired to the battery/stator. NZ also stated this, but I had a lot of splices and just junk in my harness.

Since the regulator pooped on me I figured eh what the hay. The bolt I needed to remove the flywheel matched the threading on the flywheel (really simple no puller needed, I just went to ace and had them size it, it’s a coarse thread can’t rember the size atm). Gearshift indicator should match but if it doesn’t I’ll just find what wires need to go where and upgrade the connectors.

I also need to solder a hole I made in my gas tank though, definitely watch the way those bolts go into the top motor mount, last time I messed with it I had them turned around and it jackhammered the thread into my tank.

I’m really excited to see what the tt250 harness looks like, I got gloves and more shop towels today as well as those new tub o towels (they work great for cleaning up tools), if anyone is super curious about anything I’ll have to eventually split the engine case back open to put a new gasket on or atleast coat the gasket so I can reuse it, at that point I can take some pictures and do some comparisons (my phone camera is broken otherwise I would’ve done it already). Super pumped for the handlebar switches too.

SensuBeanCartel · 09-27-2019, 04:56 AM

I probably should go with an 8 gauge ground too huh? The 10g I put in was a lot better but I think some solid 8g would do it justice.

NzBrakelathes · 09-27-2019, 07:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Megadan

So far I am not shocked at all by any of this working. Then again I do more than just guess.

Good work so far.

As far as the reg/rec. is concerned, you should have 3 charge wires, power and ground. The unit the Hawk uses has 2 charge wires, power, ground, and a sense/Regulating circuit (black wire). The FH022 and most other 3 wire reg/recs are self regulating, so simply cap off the black wire to prevent it shorting. The reg/rec function will be separate from the cdi.

I am curious about the nature of the CDI of the Hawk. So many people say it's AC. but neither of my Hawks would run without a battery, which indicates a DC system. If that is the case, then that will really simplify things.

In truth, you can upgrade the stator, flywheel, and regulator/rectifier without changing anything else about the Hawk's wiring outside of a connector or two related to those systems. I wired up a 3 wire reg/rec to my last Hawk using only 2 of the 3 connections and eliminating the sense circuit and it worked just fine, just had to change connectors to suit the new reg/rec.

Hawk TBR7 or any small 8 pole 2 charge wire and red white strip wire is AC
Trust me, pull ignition barrel plug n kick start it you’ll see.

DC CDI typically only uses 5 wire one missing from 2 pin plug and the other is black being dc ign on.
AC has wire to kill switch and red with white is the ac 75v or so power from stator to run cdi

SensuBeanCartel · 09-27-2019, 01:37 PM

everything has lined up great, definitely need the tt250 harness if you go to use the handlebar switch assemblies as the wires from those are a freaking nightmare if you try and connect them yourself. Otherwise definitely do not need the tt250 harness if your just upgrading the stator\flywheel and regulator\rectifier, however the tt250 is alot nicer, the fuse location, the routing, cable management. Im not at all upset that i got the harness, and the few times i got scared about stuff its because i had extra parts from my last harness lying around. The grounds are alot nicer on the TT250 harness as well.

You have to take out the neutral wire from the pigtail and just re insert it into the pigtail you already wired for your digital cluster, and the 4 wire pigtail coming from the dash cluster has to be redone, even though the TT250 has the same wires at that point the connectors used are different as the spades in the hawk harness were bigger. Trying to find exactly what those wires from the cluster are, think its ignition related.

Some of the wires dont match even from the tt250 harness going to the TT250 parts (handle switch assemblies dont match color lol) so im not too worried, but one connector from the tt250 harness to the dash cluster matches color but is mismatched in terms of where they go, im going to definetly look this one up before i fire it up in case i have to move the wires around in the connector but it could be just like the handlebars, just the way it is.

Also theres another 4 way connect coming from the tt250 harness for the lights, which is different from the hawk however (3 way connector), not too difficult there, im gonna wire the ignition to the running light like i had it before on the hawk harness but im going to do it cleaner. I think what they did was just eliminate some of the butt connectors used by the hawk.

SensuBeanCartel · 09-27-2019, 02:28 PM

the 6 way connector are for the cluster, neutral, turn signals, that stuff. Theres one color difference between the two bikes on that note black and brown. i believe this is the power wire for the brakes. the tt250 wiring diagram is wayyyyyy off. Im gonna color code the that panel appropriately since the hawks wires corresponded correctly there, and the only difference between the two is the brake light color code. I believe they made the wiring diagram before they updated the cluster, also some of looks to be generic since it applies to the hawk and not the harness i got.

https://www.cscmotorcycles.com/fckim...e%20Manual.pdf

SensuBeanCartel · 09-27-2019, 03:27 PM

turns out its shouldnt matter, those two and probably more from what it looked like (about 5 wires daisy chained) are just common grounds. so the brown brake light ground and the other black grounding wire can be placed in whatever two spots are left.

edit: common power wires apparently, WTH? could they have not used red? since the wiring for this harness doesn't even necessarily match what they have on their maintenance manual, or diagram its pretty confusing. however it shows blacks connecting to red and the positive side of the battery, with green being the ground wires in that section of the harness.

NzBrakelathes · 09-27-2019, 07:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SensuBeanCartel

turns out its shouldnt matter, those two and probably more from what it looked like (about 5 wires daisy chained) are just common grounds. so the brown brake light ground and the other black grounding wire can be placed in whatever two spots are left.

edit: common power wires apparently, WTH? could they have not used red? since the wiring for this harness doesn't even necessarily match what they have on their maintenance manual, or diagram its pretty confusing. however it shows blacks connecting to red and the positive side of the battery, with green being the ground wires in that section of the harness.

Black is ignition 12v
Brown park lamp
The bikes use same generic colors

SensuBeanCartel · 09-30-2019, 02:52 PM

yea mostly, some are different though like the brake lamp is black and green\white and the one that i have is brown\green. Funny the only light i think i didnt upgrade to the tt250 lights previously were the headlamp (since it isnt LED anyways) and the tailight. All my turn signals are the LEDS from the tt250 and have been for a while, they were color coded the same funny enough.

Throttle cable is in from the tt250, i like it more than the stock cable, and since its in the control switch housing its neater. The freeplay is a little off, however it was with my previous set up since the Nibbi carb i have on there is mounted slightly differently. I also like that there is more throttle cable or atleast a better adjustment with the tt250.

All the wiring is almost done, just gotta make sure the correct wiring for the brakes, and i havent gotten to putting in my battery and key yet, still doing cable management. The gaskets suprisingly work for the tt250 on the left side crank case, which is freaking amazing since theyre so cheap (i ordered 5). I need to go ahead and bust the thing open again, make sure the screws are correct (i used a cardboard template but it fell down, and two screws are in fact larger than the others). I also need to clean up everything and make sure it has no grit, ill be doing this with white coffee filters since they are super clean, leave no lint, and they reveal any dirt or grime that you wipe.

Also where the instrument cluster connected to the crank sense trigger wires and stuff, i went ahead and added a two way female bullett connectors instead of that slice and splice thing, i did this to several wires that needed it. Looks alot more clean, and its a better connection, I could've also done this for the mirror turn signals as well for easy and quick disconnect, but i wasn't too worried about that.

SensuBeanCartel · 09-30-2019, 07:25 PM

I had to re wire the the entire left hand switch assembly the pigtails did not match at all, had my horn being turned on with the hazard switch and the blinkers were switched. Cant believe that happened since the wire harness and lights are all from CSC, must of been an oversight. Fixed the wiring and everything is better, although i dont like not having an on\off switch for the lights.

I changed the connector for the left hand switch since it was wrong anyways into a 9 pin connector, i left the white off which is the headlamp power (i believe) and daisy chained it to a weatherproof on\off button. Im going to trace the running wire for the 3 pin connector on the tail light and do the same. I dont mind the little parking lamp\running light lamp always being on, so that is going to get left alone.

SensuBeanCartel · 10-05-2019, 08:46 PM

Everything's up an running, I thought I made an error when i soldered the lug terminals for the battery, but i forgot to completely tighten my ground and the electricity was shunted through the system, no harm done I tightened the ground and all is well.

Everything works, the new throttle cable is awesome, same with the switches, I love having a hazard switch, and the two weatherproof buttons I added turn the headlight and tail light off. Bike starts up sooooooooooo clean and everything just sounds better.

OMG take that back, it was the crappy $#%$#%#$% battery tender battery. My old lithium battery went out and i got the new battery tender upgraded version (less CCA, but they added a BMS) the bms was going bonkers, and the stupid reset switch is attached to some nasty looking battery tender cable charger that i didn't need, and it was tripping itself without the stupid cable. guess ill have two charging ports now since my noko battery indicator has been on there for quite some time and its attached to my dash already.

OneLeggedRider · 10-06-2019, 07:58 AM

Very impressive and I wouldn't mind seeing some pics if you get time. Do you think the bigger flywheel is heavier, like when you wrap on the throttle?

SensuBeanCartel · 10-14-2019, 07:12 PM

Sorry for the late reply , no issues at all with the throttle,and the two flywheels seemed comprable in weight, so much so I didn’t weigh them. Everything works flawlessly, I figured out the weird issues in the wiring (some stuff being backwards), and I feel like it really helped make my throttle more crisp especially with the new cables and throttle housing from the tt250

09-27-2019, 04:30 AM	#17
Megadan Join Date: Apr 2017 Location: Omaha, NE Posts: 8,030	So far I am not shocked at all by any of this working. Then again I do more than just guess. Good work so far. As far as the reg/rec. is concerned, you should have 3 charge wires, power and ground. The unit the Hawk uses has 2 charge wires, power, ground, and a sense/Regulating circuit (black wire). The FH022 and most other 3 wire reg/recs are self regulating, so simply cap off the black wire to prevent it shorting. The reg/rec function will be separate from the cdi. I am curious about the nature of the CDI of the Hawk. So many people say it's AC. but neither of my Hawks would run without a battery, which indicates a DC system. If that is the case, then that will really simplify things. In truth, you can upgrade the stator, flywheel, and regulator/rectifier without changing anything else about the Hawk's wiring outside of a connector or two related to those systems. I wired up a 3 wire reg/rec to my last Hawk using only 2 of the 3 connections and eliminating the sense circuit and it worked just fine, just had to change connectors to suit the new reg/rec. __________________ Hawk Information and Resource guide: http://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=20331 2018 Hawk 250 - Full Mod list here. http://www.chinariders.net/showpost....62&postcount=1 2024 Royal Enfield Shotgun 650 https://chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=34124
	1

09-27-2019, 03:27 PM	#23
SensuBeanCartel Join Date: Feb 2019 Posts: 74	turns out its shouldnt matter, those two and probably more from what it looked like (about 5 wires daisy chained) are just common grounds. so the brown brake light ground and the other black grounding wire can be placed in whatever two spots are left. edit: common power wires apparently, WTH? could they have not used red? since the wiring for this harness doesn't even necessarily match what they have on their maintenance manual, or diagram its pretty confusing. however it shows blacks connecting to red and the positive side of the battery, with green being the ground wires in that section of the harness. Last edited by SensuBeanCartel; 09-27-2019 at 04:31 PM.
	1

10-05-2019, 08:46 PM	#27
SensuBeanCartel Join Date: Feb 2019 Posts: 74	Everything's up an running, I thought I made an error when i soldered the lug terminals for the battery, but i forgot to completely tighten my ground and the electricity was shunted through the system, no harm done I tightened the ground and all is well. Everything works, the new throttle cable is awesome, same with the switches, I love having a hazard switch, and the two weatherproof buttons I added turn the headlight and tail light off. Bike starts up sooooooooooo clean and everything just sounds better. OMG take that back, it was the crappy $#%$#%#$% battery tender battery. My old lithium battery went out and i got the new battery tender upgraded version (less CCA, but they added a BMS) the bms was going bonkers, and the stupid reset switch is attached to some nasty looking battery tender cable charger that i didn't need, and it was tripping itself without the stupid cable. guess ill have two charging ports now since my noko battery indicator has been on there for quite some time and its attached to my dash already. Last edited by SensuBeanCartel; 10-06-2019 at 02:32 AM.
	2

10-06-2019, 07:58 AM	#28
OneLeggedRider Join Date: Nov 2018 Location: Stockport, Oh. Posts: 1,442	Very impressive and I wouldn't mind seeing some pics if you get time. Do you think the bigger flywheel is heavier, like when you wrap on the throttle? __________________ ~ Don't poke the bear ~ M.M.I. Dean's List graduate class of '95 and Specialty welder 2020 Ice Bear Terifecta 150cc Trike 2011 Honda Foreman 500ES 4x4 2001 Polaris Scrambler 400
	0

09-26-2019, 07:36 PM	#16
SensuBeanCartel Join Date: Feb 2019 Posts: 74	Everything’s looks to be lining up , flywheel is in, stator is in, cover is on , TDC on compression stroke holds true , everything appers to have gone right so far. Electrical harness comes in tomorrow.
	0

09-27-2019, 04:43 AM	#18
SensuBeanCartel Join Date: Feb 2019 Posts: 74	Yea I saw on a post you and another had done that but I didn’t wanna use the shindengen on the stock charging system , I was also worried just in case that the tt250s wiring was a little beefier or maybe better quality, but like you said it should be fine without the harness as the regulator is directly wired to the battery/stator. NZ also stated this, but I had a lot of splices and just junk in my harness. Since the regulator pooped on me I figured eh what the hay. The bolt I needed to remove the flywheel matched the threading on the flywheel (really simple no puller needed, I just went to ace and had them size it, it’s a coarse thread can’t rember the size atm). Gearshift indicator should match but if it doesn’t I’ll just find what wires need to go where and upgrade the connectors. I also need to solder a hole I made in my gas tank though, definitely watch the way those bolts go into the top motor mount, last time I messed with it I had them turned around and it jackhammered the thread into my tank. I’m really excited to see what the tt250 harness looks like, I got gloves and more shop towels today as well as those new tub o towels (they work great for cleaning up tools), if anyone is super curious about anything I’ll have to eventually split the engine case back open to put a new gasket on or atleast coat the gasket so I can reuse it, at that point I can take some pictures and do some comparisons (my phone camera is broken otherwise I would’ve done it already). Super pumped for the handlebar switches too.
	1

09-27-2019, 04:56 AM	#19
SensuBeanCartel Join Date: Feb 2019 Posts: 74	I probably should go with an 8 gauge ground too huh? The 10g I put in was a lot better but I think some solid 8g would do it justice.
	0

09-27-2019, 01:37 PM	#21
SensuBeanCartel Join Date: Feb 2019 Posts: 74	everything has lined up great, definitely need the tt250 harness if you go to use the handlebar switch assemblies as the wires from those are a freaking nightmare if you try and connect them yourself. Otherwise definitely do not need the tt250 harness if your just upgrading the stator\flywheel and regulator\rectifier, however the tt250 is alot nicer, the fuse location, the routing, cable management. Im not at all upset that i got the harness, and the few times i got scared about stuff its because i had extra parts from my last harness lying around. The grounds are alot nicer on the TT250 harness as well. You have to take out the neutral wire from the pigtail and just re insert it into the pigtail you already wired for your digital cluster, and the 4 wire pigtail coming from the dash cluster has to be redone, even though the TT250 has the same wires at that point the connectors used are different as the spades in the hawk harness were bigger. Trying to find exactly what those wires from the cluster are, think its ignition related. Some of the wires dont match even from the tt250 harness going to the TT250 parts (handle switch assemblies dont match color lol) so im not too worried, but one connector from the tt250 harness to the dash cluster matches color but is mismatched in terms of where they go, im going to definetly look this one up before i fire it up in case i have to move the wires around in the connector but it could be just like the handlebars, just the way it is. Also theres another 4 way connect coming from the tt250 harness for the lights, which is different from the hawk however (3 way connector), not too difficult there, im gonna wire the ignition to the running light like i had it before on the hawk harness but im going to do it cleaner. I think what they did was just eliminate some of the butt connectors used by the hawk.
	2

09-27-2019, 02:28 PM	#22
SensuBeanCartel Join Date: Feb 2019 Posts: 74	the 6 way connector are for the cluster, neutral, turn signals, that stuff. Theres one color difference between the two bikes on that note black and brown. i believe this is the power wire for the brakes. the tt250 wiring diagram is wayyyyyy off. Im gonna color code the that panel appropriately since the hawks wires corresponded correctly there, and the only difference between the two is the brake light color code. I believe they made the wiring diagram before they updated the cluster, also some of looks to be generic since it applies to the hawk and not the harness i got. https://www.cscmotorcycles.com/fckim...e%20Manual.pdf
	2

09-30-2019, 02:52 PM	#25
SensuBeanCartel Join Date: Feb 2019 Posts: 74	yea mostly, some are different though like the brake lamp is black and green\white and the one that i have is brown\green. Funny the only light i think i didnt upgrade to the tt250 lights previously were the headlamp (since it isnt LED anyways) and the tailight. All my turn signals are the LEDS from the tt250 and have been for a while, they were color coded the same funny enough. Throttle cable is in from the tt250, i like it more than the stock cable, and since its in the control switch housing its neater. The freeplay is a little off, however it was with my previous set up since the Nibbi carb i have on there is mounted slightly differently. I also like that there is more throttle cable or atleast a better adjustment with the tt250. All the wiring is almost done, just gotta make sure the correct wiring for the brakes, and i havent gotten to putting in my battery and key yet, still doing cable management. The gaskets suprisingly work for the tt250 on the left side crank case, which is freaking amazing since theyre so cheap (i ordered 5). I need to go ahead and bust the thing open again, make sure the screws are correct (i used a cardboard template but it fell down, and two screws are in fact larger than the others). I also need to clean up everything and make sure it has no grit, ill be doing this with white coffee filters since they are super clean, leave no lint, and they reveal any dirt or grime that you wipe. Also where the instrument cluster connected to the crank sense trigger wires and stuff, i went ahead and added a two way female bullett connectors instead of that slice and splice thing, i did this to several wires that needed it. Looks alot more clean, and its a better connection, I could've also done this for the mirror turn signals as well for easy and quick disconnect, but i wasn't too worried about that.
	2

09-30-2019, 07:25 PM	#26
SensuBeanCartel Join Date: Feb 2019 Posts: 74	I had to re wire the the entire left hand switch assembly the pigtails did not match at all, had my horn being turned on with the hazard switch and the blinkers were switched. Cant believe that happened since the wire harness and lights are all from CSC, must of been an oversight. Fixed the wiring and everything is better, although i dont like not having an on\off switch for the lights. I changed the connector for the left hand switch since it was wrong anyways into a 9 pin connector, i left the white off which is the headlamp power (i believe) and daisy chained it to a weatherproof on\off button. Im going to trace the running wire for the 3 pin connector on the tail light and do the same. I dont mind the little parking lamp\running light lamp always being on, so that is going to get left alone.
	1

10-14-2019, 07:12 PM	#29
SensuBeanCartel Join Date: Feb 2019 Posts: 74	Sorry for the late reply , no issues at all with the throttle,and the two flywheels seemed comprable in weight, so much so I didn’t weigh them. Everything works flawlessly, I figured out the weird issues in the wiring (some stuff being backwards), and I feel like it really helped make my throttle more crisp especially with the new cables and throttle housing from the tt250
	0