A New Beginning.

[mac1029]

Originally Posted by Megadan

Spaver wise I found the top needs two 5mm and the bottom two 10mm. Hope that makes it easier for ya!

Thanks Dan and yes it does, so i will take a ride and buy those sizes tomorrow , obviously with a 10mm center.

[Weldangrind]

Hey Dan, here's a poor pic of the T-bolt clamp I mentioned on your YouTube channel:

[Megadan]

I like that idea. I actually have a few T-bolt clamps sitting around that I could probably use for my burrito tube if the exhaust hanger I ordered won't work for some reason.

[JerryHawk250]

Originally Posted by Megadan

I like that idea. I actually have a few T-bolt clamps sitting around that I could probably use for my burrito tube if the exhaust hanger I ordered won't work for some reason.

Thanks for the idea Dan and Weld. One of the mounting brackets recently broke off from metal fatigue and the plastic mounting point on the tube got eaten up by the tire. I think I have some T-bolt clamps in my shed from one of the turbos I had. I can weld another bracket on and the T-bolt clamp would make a good holder for the tube.

[JerryHawk250]

Originally Posted by Megadan

They aren't the greatest videos. I was so out of it that I completely forgot to mention the last two steps of removing the swing arm - the lower shock bolt and the pivot bolt. I just hope it is obvious enough that it wasn't needed.

These are great videos Dan. Don't need all the fancy video editing , music and other BS. Most important part of these videos is providing the much needed information on how to work on and assemble these bikes. On the swing arm video you mentioned one thing that most people over look and don't do. Nothing wrong with the stock chain. Put it to soak in lube while assembling the bike and they will last. I had over 2500 miles on the 1st stock chain before replacing it and it really didn't need replacing. Only reason I replaced it was I had another stock chain that a member gave me so I swapped it out when I was cleaning and lubing the chain.

[ben2go]

Someone here converted their Hawk swing arm to use roller bearings.



Here it is. The info starts at post #23.
http://www.chinariders.net/showthrea...earings&page=2

[Megadan]

Originally Posted by ben2go

Someone here converted their Hawk swing arm to use roller bearings.



Here it is. The info starts at post #23.
http://www.chinariders.net/showthrea...earings&page=2

I have nothing against a roller bearing design. Honestly though, the sleeve bushing design the Hawk uses is not a bad one once it has lubircation. Needle roller bearings require regular servicing too, and are less forgiving to mud and grit than a standard sleeve bearing. So it is kind of a trade off.

[Megadan]

A little more tinkering for about an hour or so before going to bed.


Here are a couple of pictures of the airbox with the lid on top. I may have cut a bit more than I need, but it should still do the job just fine. A part of the reason I cut so much was to get more access to the preload adjusters on the rear shock, as well as some space to get in and add or remove pressure from it's gas port.



Here is kind of a view from the rear wheel area looking forward. Not much loss of coverage on the air filter side. I figure if all else fails then I can create some additional coverage with some PVC sheeting and epoxy.

[pete]

Originally Posted by Megadan

I have nothing against a roller bearing design. Honestly though, the sleeve bushing design the Hawk uses is not a bad one once it has lubircation. Needle roller bearings require regular servicing too, and are less forgiving to mud and grit than a standard sleeve bearing. So it is kind of a trade off.

And replacement... the last set of swing arm , linkage & shock bearing I put
in the TTR was just under $300.....
not cheap when the bike lives in mud and water...

PS....... Chinese TTR owners don't panic.... that was a Yamaha TTR...




.

[Megadan]

A lesson in customer service that I wish more CB shops would take note of. I go to install the TT250 rear rack on my Hawk, open the box, and find they didn't include the hardware with it. No spacers or bolts. Not a huge deal, people make mistakes.

I give CSC a call - which they answered the phone within 1 ring, say "Hey, you guys forgot my hardware." Without asking for an order number, just my name, they say, "sorry about that, we will send it out to you right away."

Let's put that in contrast to one of my encounters with TXPowersports. I order a front wheel and within 3 days they list my order as shipped but provide no tracking information. After 6 weeks of not getting any sort of call or update, I call them to find out what the status is, and instantly I get treated like I am some sort of inconvenience after trying to call them 4 different times, and even cut off and yelled at by "Mike" the manager, told to e-mail them as the only means of order inquiries, and otherwise no resolution or any sort of answers. I e-mail them and it takes 5 days to get a reply, to which I suddenly have tracking information an a week later my wheel shows up at my house.

Just re-affirms that the next CB purchase I make will likely be from CSC. I have never had an even remotely bad encounter with them.

[mac1029]

Originally Posted by Megadan

Spacer wise I found the top needs two 5mm and the bottom two 10mm. Hope that makes it easier for ya!

Well received the shock,and installed it.
I just used some stainless washers for now to mount and found that 8 on top and 18 on bottom snugged it up with no end play.
seat height seems to be down about 1.5 inches which is a plus and the stance looks way better IMHO.
(Pictures will be up on the Facebook page under Bobby mac.)

[Megadan]

Originally Posted by mac1029

Well received the shock,and installed it.
I just used some stainless washers for now to mount and found that 8 on top and 18 on bottom snugged it up with no end play.
seat height seems to be down about 1.5 inches which is a plus and the stance looks way better IMHO.
(Pictures will be up on the Facebook page under Bobby mac.)

I wouldnt recommend using the washers long term, but measuring tge stach will give you a good idea of what you need for a solid spacer.

Your ride height change correlates well with mine. 25mm shorter shock = 38mm shorter ride height. Or roughly 1.5:1 ratio. My extra 5mm shock length gave me about an 8ish mm increase.

[Megadan]

Originally Posted by blanc12

How does it ride mac?

This isnt me trying to be mean, but I would prefer to keep this post on track. I think this would be a good chance for a separate thread to discuss these shocks. I would gladly contribute my information to it as well

[Megadan]

Finally got the bars in today. Put in a tiny bit of work to kind of get it all together. I decided to try the other style of riser adapters I had bought to try on my last Hawk instead of the Pro Taper units. They sit the bars up just a bit higher, and the grips are right about the same level as the stock bars would be, or just a little bit higher up.

Put the new throttle on and routed the cable in a way that doesn't bind. I have two options as how to run said cable with this new throttle, high or low. Low gives a bit more room for adjustment, high puts a bit less bend in the cable housing.

That little aluminum handlebar switch I got worked out really well. A bit of a tight fit for the wires right behind the master cylinder reservoir, but it does fit. Thankfully the wires are sheathed in a pretty darn thick outer rubber insulation, so it should be ok installed this way. I could also flip it upside down if I decide I like that better, but I am afraid of accidentally bumping the starter button when I reach for it.

Anyway, I am exhausted, going to bed. Gratuitous picture.

[goat67]

Do you have a link for those bars? Are the 7/8 or 1 1/8?