zong sierra, should i move carb clip after mods?

[alan566]

Hi,

I bought the bike new and rode it for several years then I let it sit for a few years outside without cranking it. I moved twice since then with the carb off and lost a lot of parts.
Well I've got it back running but it runs bad. I have to many problems going on to check plug and it tell me anything right now. before replacing o-ring it runs with choke on but pops a lot.

Anyway today I found an o-ring to replace the pinched manifold o-ring and I replaced the choke/enhancer with the pullout one that's for the Yamaha carb not the thumb one for the zong so I shouldn't have anymore air leaks. I have the fmf tc2 muffler and now I replaced the airbox with a cone filter. I have the carb apart and I'm tired of pulling the carb and fooling with it. lol After it sit for a few years the needle seized up and would not move in the carb. I found a used parts carb on ebay and now the carb is clean and ready to go back together. Just want to set the clip now while I have it out. the new needle has the clip in the middle. should I move it down one? I'm in northeast ga and at arould 3300 above sea level.

thanks guys for the help in advance.

[alan566]

I cant remember if I had moved my old clip and cant find it anywhere now anyway. I have been reading older posts but not sure how much my sea level changes things that other people did.

[alan566]

A few pix

[alan566]

This is now

[Ariel Red Hunter]

Originally Posted by alan566

Hi,

I bought the bike new and rode it for several years then I let it sit for a few years outside without cranking it. I moved twice since then with the carb off and lost a lot of parts.
Well I've got it back running but it runs bad. I have to many problems going on to check plug and it tell me anything right now. before replacing o-ring it runs with choke on but pops a lot.

Anyway today I found an o-ring to replace the pinched manifold o-ring and I replaced the choke/enhancer with the pullout one that's for the Yamaha carb not the thumb one for the zong so I shouldn't have anymore air leaks. I have the fmf tc2 muffler and now I replaced the airbox with a cone filter. I have the carb apart and I'm tired of pulling the carb and fooling with it. lol After it sit for a few years the needle seized up and would not move in the carb. I found a used parts carb on ebay and now the carb is clean and ready to go back together. Just want to set the clip now while I have it out. the new needle has the clip in the middle. should I move it down one? I'm in northeast ga and at arould 3300 above sea level.

thanks guys for the help in advance.

Hard tellin', not knowin'. What kind of carb is on it? What size? You are doing this backwards from the way I do it. I start by making sure that the float is level, and that the float bowl inlet valve is working. Then I preset the idle mixture screw 1 1/2 turns out. I set the needle in the middle slot. This is the baseline setting for the carburetor. Then I start with the pilot jet first. Change them until the engine idles nicely at 1250-1300 rpm. Now play with the idle mixture screw. If you have to go more than a quarter turn in either direction, change pilot jets again. When you've got this straightened out, you will have a good idle, and good carburation up to 1/4 throttle. Now, if the carb is a Mikuni, try a 115 main jet. You don't have to do a plug chop. There is an easier way. Get the bike well warmed up, and on a low traffic 55 mph highway, get it in high gear, and pulling hard, but not wound out. Full throttle. Now roll off an eighth of a turn on the twist grip. If there is a slight surge of power, main jet is too lean, if it feels doggy, or sort of stumbles, main jet is too rich. After you've got the right pilot jet, and main jet, and mid-range is not quite right, move the needle up or down 1 notch. One notch down richens it. One notch up leans the mid-range.....ARH

[alan566]

Thanks,
It's the factory carb tv28 with factory jets. I had so many things wrong going on it I'm just trying to decide should I move the clip before I put it back together since I just deleted the air box and added the cone filter.

[Ariel Red Hunter]

Originally Posted by alan566

Thanks,
It's the factory carb tv28 with factory jets. I had so many things wrong going on it I'm just trying to decide should I move the clip before I put it back together since I just deleted the air box and added the cone filter.

There is no way the factory jets will work satifactorily with a cone exhaust and a pod air filter...ARH

[alan566]

Thanks, mine says 132. Is that factory? I put the fmf pipe on so many years ago I'm not sure if I changed the main jet or just moved the clip or both. I know elevation matters just not sure how much. I read so many posts I didn't find The right one and didn't check the one in my carb till now.

[alan566]

Never mind, the 132 is stock

[alan566]

It ran great with the 132 in it and fmf pipe for years but now I have the cone filter I guess I need to get some more jets. I'm gonna put it back together and see what the plug looks like and if it how it runs l. I dropped the clip down one, it was popping last I ran it.

[alan566]

ariel,
thanks for your help, It still wont idle but I went as far as I can go without jets. I made sure the float was perfect. it still wont idle without some choke on. runs good but pops a little but will barely idle and is with screw out about 4 turns. carb is clean and gas is thick with seafoam so I guess I need to order some jets and go from there.
thanks again, alan

[Ariel Red Hunter]

Originally Posted by alan566

Thanks, mine says 132. Is that factory? I put the fmf pipe on so many years ago I'm not sure if I changed the main jet or just moved the clip or both. I know elevation matters just not sure how much. I read so many posts I didn't find The right one and didn't check the one in my carb till now.

That's a Mikuni carb?

[Ariel Red Hunter]

Originally Posted by alan566

ariel,
thanks for your help, It still wont idle but I went as far as I can go without jets. I made sure the float was perfect. it still wont idle without some choke on. runs good but pops a little but will barely idle and is with screw out about 4 turns. carb is clean and gas is thick with seafoam so I guess I need to order some jets and go from there.
thanks again, alan

Now you know why you need to keep changing pilot jets until it will idle with the screw turned between 1 1/4 - 1 3/4 turns. The reason I start with the pilot jet is because it keeps adding fuel all the way up the performance ladder. In other words, if the pilot jet is too lean, it will make you put in an over rich main jet to try to compensate. That was the problem with the Amac carb of the 1920's. One simple idle jet, and two levers (instead of a twist grip) to juggle the mixture. One lever controlled the air, the other lever raised and lowered the needle. When they became Amal, they figured out the pilot jet idea with different pilot jets - and then it really worked...ARH

[bogieboy]

Start with fresh fuel.....seafoam can and will lean out your mixture to the point of not running well.... no sense in tuning to run with a crapload of seafoam, only to find the next tank pig rich... been there donrle that with customers lawnmowers.... seafoam isnt a miracle cure like most believe...LOL

[dh]

That is a Teikei Carb similar to my Ssr. The stock jet for my 250 was a 128 and I run a 132.5 now with modified exhaust and intake and it runs great. If I move my needle up more than 1 shim I have stumbling on deceleration and it is just way too rich.

If this carb gives you any more problems consider just getting a new one on Taobao for a around $10. Reference the qingqi qm250 while shopping.