Mikuni and a Uni for the Bandit

[HailingFromCork]

So I just got the carb in the mail yesterday, and was not expecting the filters until early next week, but the filters turned up this morning.

I attached some pictures of the carb. I just wanted to make sure it looks like the right one. I am pretty confident it is, but always better safe than sorry!

Also, I forgot to get myself some uni oil, so I will need to go to the motorcycle parts store, and wanted to get some jets while I am there. Considering that my house is just under 5,000 feet, I got the 4" 15 degree Uni, and the exhauxst will likely be staying stock for now , what size jets should I get? (unless anyone has some muffler modification advice, Weld? Won't have funds for a spark arrestor for a few more weeks.)

I just cracked it open, and it came with the what I expected from reading around, a 100 main and 20 slow. Now I know a lot of you are running something in the neighborhood of 120 and 25, but do I need to, or should I even be going that high since I am at higher altitude, especially with the exhaust being stock for now? Or would I be better off at that with a middle step somewhere between 100-120 and 20-25?

Also what are the yamaha jets that I am looking for the work with these guys?

On a side note I have another question that didn't seem to warrant a new thread for now so I will toss it on here. I went to check my valve clearance the other day and COULD NOT get the valve cap to come out once I got the bolts out. I tried every which way and it did not want to clear the frame . Is it possible that I am going to have to drop my engine to check my clearances? If so can I rock it on one of the lower bolts or do I need to take it out completely?

She sounds fine right now, definitely not quite so no tight valves! So not a huge rush I don't think, but I am sure I will be getting miles on her in no time and need to do it soon enough....

On ANOTHER side note I am off to finish up dipping those panels right now.... I will post pictures once I get the carbs switched and get all the plastics back on

[FastDoc]

Spud, who rides at 4,000 to 10,000 feet is running leaner than standard jets in his Zong. I don't know what he runs in his other bikes. His Zong runds very well at altitude. I'd suggest starting with what you have. Where do you live?

My KLX which is jetted for sea level (I live at 1,000 feet and ride from sea level to about 6,000 feet around here runs fine. When I ride with Spud at 10,000 the KLX is jetted very fat, but it works.

[Weldangrind]

I recommend that you run the jets you have for now, and watch the plug carefully. Do a cruising speed plug chop, then do a high speed chop. Use a new plug each time, so you can see the difference.

If the engine is really hard to start, increase the slow jet from 20 to 22 or 25.

I don't know which specific Yamaha bikes used these carbs, but there were several. The local Yamaha shop will be able to identify them.

The valve cover on my quad doesn't want to come off, so i just turn it one way for the intake, and the other for the exhaust. I could mill part of the fins off, but I don't need to.

I use Maxima Fab1 spray oil on pod filters. Good stuff.

I'd need to see your exhaust system before I can comment.

[HailingFromCork]

Thanks for the advice guys! I will go ahead and run it how it is and keep an eye on it. I was not aware that Spud has run his Zong at leaner than stock, so it sounds like a 100 and 20 should do okay for me then.

To answer your question Doc I live in Salt Lake City, near downtown, up on the hill.

I am presuming since neither of you mentioned that my bike is going to burst into flames or melt immediately if I even let the carb I bought near it, that it is the correct one? I was concerned that I should have gotten a VM28, Instead of a VM26 knock off. I have not lined this one up to the boot yet, only the air filter, but it seems to be the correct size.

Weld, I will get you some pictures of the exhaust when I am not at work. I don't know if any of the ones in this thread have what you are looking for, but you can see it here:

http://chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=13670&page=3

Also, when you have gone from the PZ30 to these Mikuni carbs, have you needed to replace your throttle cable?

As far as getting to my valves without getting the cap off, I MIGHT be able to get the intake valve, but there is no way I can get enough room on the exhaust valve without getting it off. I suppose I could try to mill off the fin that seems to be the last one in the way going one direction, but this seems like a job that should be done with the cover off.

Has anyone else run into this issue? If so how did you solve your issue, check/set your valves? Am i going to have to drop the engine? or can I swing it from one of the bolts, just enough to get clearance for the valve cover?

[pchitti]

Cable should work fine. The pull style throttle is pretty generic. Like weld said, the valve cover can be milled down to allow removal of it doesnt clear the frame and exhausr. Or as you guessed, drop the engine a little.

You have a 200cc iirc, the vm26 should be fine. Larger carb would add some to the top end potential, but rob some low end power. At least thats what my research has led me to believe.

Could you snap a pic of the carb with the bowl off? Thanks

[HailingFromCork]

Originally Posted by pchitti

Cable should work fine. The pull style throttle is pretty generic. Like weld said, the valve cover can be milled down to allow removal of it doesnt clear the frame and exhausr. Or as you guessed, drop the engine a little.

You have a 200cc iirc, the vm26 should be fine. Larger carb would add some to the top end potential, but rob some low end power. At least thats what my research has led me to believe.

Could you snap a pic of the carb with the bowl off? Thanks

I figured that the cable should work, but was just curious what others have experienced before I go pulling mine out to put the new one in, so glad to hear that.

I have the 229 cc 169FMM engine, so I was concerned that because it is not a 200cc that it might not be big enough.

I will get a picture with the bowl off when I am home from work.

[SpudRider]

Other than regularly changing the engine oil, keeping the valves adjusted is the best practice you can follow to increase engine longevity. Therefore, I suggest you trim the fins on the cylinder head. I can't imagine it is pleasant to pull engine bolts every time you want to check the valve lash.

[Weldangrind]

Originally Posted by HailingFromCork

Weld, I will get you some pictures of the exhaust when I am not at work. I don't know if any of the ones in this thread have what you are looking for, but you can see it here:

http://chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=13670&page=3

Also, when you have gone from the PZ30 to these Mikuni carbs, have you needed to replace your throttle cable?

I would clean and paint the stock head pipe, and use a universal muffler, like the FMF that Spud likes. It's actually a two-stroke pipe, but he uses four-stroke packing in it. I've ridden his bike, and it has a nice throaty sound, without being obnoxious.

The stock throttle cable will work with your new carb.

[Weldangrind]

You indicated that you won't have the funds for a new silencer for awhile, so do you have a welder?

[Weldangrind]

If you have a welder, I could share some tips to make it breathe a little better.

[HailingFromCork]

Originally Posted by Weldangrind

If you have a welder, I could share some tips to make it breathe a little better.

Welding is the only thing I have gone to school for so far! I did not finish my degree, but I should be able to get it sorted, and I can get access to a torch or a mig welder. I am imagining a torch would be better?

Any advice would be much appreciated!

[Weldangrind]

A MIG would meet your needs nicely. Page one of this thread will give you a few ideas: http://www.chinariders.net/showthrea...ghlight=xl250s