Mean Green Lives!

gtrmaster88 · 05-10-2011, 08:37 AM

Well, I got my performance CDI unit in yesterday, after patiently waiting past the time it was supposed to be here...and I hooked it up last night and began my attempts at cranking my beast up.

It had to look quite comical, my driveway looked like some mechanical surgery area...being that the battery was drained I had to hook up the booster cables to my dad's 3/4 chevy, and I had my fiance' hold the foot brake down and give it choke (no choke cable, and it's rigged off of a wire to give it choke), while I gave it the throttle and attempted to ground my starter push button...being that the ground wire had come loose, I had to tear that left handlebar button assembly apart and get in there to manually hold the wires while pushing the button...

It took a while, but finally the atv fired...after about 5 attempts at holding the ground on my starter button long enough to give it sufficient cranking time (which took a while because I'm sure this thing hadn't been started in quite some time), she fired up! There was quite a bit of smoke at first, but then it all cleared out of its system and it was good to go.

Now there were a few things I noticed I'm going to need to check into, other than the previously mentioned new parts I'll now be ordering since I know I'm not wasting money on a quad that doesn't even run. First off, when I tried to move from neutral to forward, it sounded like it was grinding gears or something, so I quickly kicked it back out. I got it to move swiftly into reverse, and though it kicked a little bit when I did so, it worked fine and I could easily go in reverse...after doing that I eased the gearshift back into forward, and it didn't grind...moved ahead just fine...and I was actually impressed with how well it takes off with my big ol' boy body squatted on it :-) But here's the thing now....I'm not sure what changed (perhaps after having it in forward and then reverse, and back and forth), but it began to get rather difficult to change gears...the lever was harder to maneuver...and of course I did rock the quad a bit thinking it may just need the gears to roll a little bit in order to aid in gear change, but that still didn't remove all the tension...

I did notice there are several grease points on the quad, and when I get back home and piddle with it some more, I'll get dad's grease gun out and lube up those joints. I'm hoping that and a new good oil change, along with the gearbox oil change, will help it move fine again.

Also...I've been thinking of areas on the quad I can improve the looks on, by just simple/cheap means. One area I noticed that could use some attention is the exhaust. Mine has the chrome cap that looks nice on the end, but the rest of the piping is surface rust color. I'd like to remove it from the bike and sand it a bit, then use some of that black high temp. spray paint and give it a couple good coast to make it look better...Question is, how hard is it to remove the exhaust? Mine is mounted all the way underneath the engine, and I don't want to ruin any gaskets or anything of that nature taking it off to give it a once-over. Any advice on that?

Weldangrind · 05-10-2011, 10:40 AM

Woot! It runs!

The planetary reverse mechanism is one that I don't have direct experience with; mine's in the rear axle. Maybe it has a provision for oiling or repacking. The engine (originally designed for a scooter) places the rear wheel right on the output shaft of the gearbox assembly; take a look at a 50cc scooter next time you spot one and you'll see what I mean. In your case, a planetary device is mounted to the output shaft, and that allows you to select between forward and reverse. I presume that the lever is cable operated - please confirm that.

The bottom line is that the planetary device has nothing to do with the rest of the engine, and it can be replaced as a component or eliminated altogether. Perhaps you'll be able to teach us how it works.

The exhaust gasket will likely be compromised when you remove the pipe, but they're cheap and plentiful on eBay. The pipe is really easy to remove. I use flat black Rustoleum / Tremclad with a foam brush, rather than a spray can. I buy bags of foam brushes at the dollar store.

I recommend that you change the fluids before running it again.

Weldangrind · 05-10-2011, 10:49 AM

Upon researching a bit more, I discovered that there is a third style of reverse available for these engines, and it's within the gearbox. Here's a pic: http://www.buggydepot.com/store/inde...roducts_id=285

I found some great tech info here, including how a CVT works: http://www.buggydepot.com/buggy-tech...ggies-Parts/7/

Please show us some close-up shots of the back of your engine, taken from behind the rear axle.

gtrmaster88 · 05-10-2011, 11:41 AM

Yeah I'll definitely be changing the fluids before running it any more. I'll take more pictures of every angle of the engine I can, primarily the ones you mentioned of the rear, and I'll try to have them uploaded either this evening or tomorrow. I'm also going to take some closeups of the sprocket chain area, because I'm not sure what to do about that either; it ran fine yesterday, but I don't want to put anymore tension on the chain in it's current condition...

the two adjuster bolts for the chain are there, but one of them is stripped and the nut is just hanging there essentially. They're cheap too, and I added that into the cost for parts already to order within another week or so. Now, there are a couple different types of gaskets on the site that I'm ordering from, and I'm not sure which one I need, or if I need both. Here's a link to the direct page: http://www.motopartsmax.com/index.ph...h/21_122/tID/1, and I'm assuming the one I need is either the one that's just a round circular gasket, or the oval'ish one with two screw holes for mounting, can you confirm which one? Would you recommend doing the brush type paint with foam brushes over spray-bombing? I'll have to find exactly what type of Rustoleum I'll need if I go that route, but if it's better, that's what I'm gonna do. I'm not sure how these things work as you can no doubt tell =P

And on a last note, I really don't know if my gearshift is cable-driven or not. I would assume it's some other formation because it seems to come directly off of the gear box, like, it's mounted right to the side of the hunk of metal that comprises the motor and tranny (lol, how's that for a description from an ignoramous?). I'll go ahead and take closeup pics of that as well and maybe you can tell from that :-)

So what type of fluids would you recommend to replace the old with? I hear synthetic is a good way to go but I don't personally know. I don't know how much oil I'll need either, and on the gear box, I'm sure I'll have to change that out too, what do you use for replacing the fluid in that? I'll also be greasing those joints like I mentioned.

Weldangrind · 05-10-2011, 09:19 PM

Use this gasket:

The paint application method is your choice. I like the brush on type because it's much neater.

It makes sense that the gearshift lever is directly connected, rather than cable or lever actuated. Looking forward to the pics.

I like synthetics. The typical one quart bottle of gear oil will have a nozzle for a top, so it will be really easy to fill the gearbox. Buy one quart of 75W90 for the gearbox and one quart of 10W30 for the engine. I use Castrol Syntec for both.

05-10-2011, 08:37 AM	#1
gtrmaster88 Join Date: May 2011 Location: Morehead, Ky Posts: 20	Mean Green Lives! Well, I got my performance CDI unit in yesterday, after patiently waiting past the time it was supposed to be here...and I hooked it up last night and began my attempts at cranking my beast up. It had to look quite comical, my driveway looked like some mechanical surgery area...being that the battery was drained I had to hook up the booster cables to my dad's 3/4 chevy, and I had my fiance' hold the foot brake down and give it choke (no choke cable, and it's rigged off of a wire to give it choke), while I gave it the throttle and attempted to ground my starter push button...being that the ground wire had come loose, I had to tear that left handlebar button assembly apart and get in there to manually hold the wires while pushing the button... It took a while, but finally the atv fired...after about 5 attempts at holding the ground on my starter button long enough to give it sufficient cranking time (which took a while because I'm sure this thing hadn't been started in quite some time), she fired up! There was quite a bit of smoke at first, but then it all cleared out of its system and it was good to go. Now there were a few things I noticed I'm going to need to check into, other than the previously mentioned new parts I'll now be ordering since I know I'm not wasting money on a quad that doesn't even run. First off, when I tried to move from neutral to forward, it sounded like it was grinding gears or something, so I quickly kicked it back out. I got it to move swiftly into reverse, and though it kicked a little bit when I did so, it worked fine and I could easily go in reverse...after doing that I eased the gearshift back into forward, and it didn't grind...moved ahead just fine...and I was actually impressed with how well it takes off with my big ol' boy body squatted on it :-) But here's the thing now....I'm not sure what changed (perhaps after having it in forward and then reverse, and back and forth), but it began to get rather difficult to change gears...the lever was harder to maneuver...and of course I did rock the quad a bit thinking it may just need the gears to roll a little bit in order to aid in gear change, but that still didn't remove all the tension... I did notice there are several grease points on the quad, and when I get back home and piddle with it some more, I'll get dad's grease gun out and lube up those joints. I'm hoping that and a new good oil change, along with the gearbox oil change, will help it move fine again. Also...I've been thinking of areas on the quad I can improve the looks on, by just simple/cheap means. One area I noticed that could use some attention is the exhaust. Mine has the chrome cap that looks nice on the end, but the rest of the piping is surface rust color. I'd like to remove it from the bike and sand it a bit, then use some of that black high temp. spray paint and give it a couple good coast to make it look better...Question is, how hard is it to remove the exhaust? Mine is mounted all the way underneath the engine, and I don't want to ruin any gaskets or anything of that nature taking it off to give it a once-over. Any advice on that?
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05-10-2011, 10:40 AM	#2
Weldangrind Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Sardis, BC, Canada Posts: 25,977	Woot! It runs! The planetary reverse mechanism is one that I don't have direct experience with; mine's in the rear axle. Maybe it has a provision for oiling or repacking. The engine (originally designed for a scooter) places the rear wheel right on the output shaft of the gearbox assembly; take a look at a 50cc scooter next time you spot one and you'll see what I mean. In your case, a planetary device is mounted to the output shaft, and that allows you to select between forward and reverse. I presume that the lever is cable operated - please confirm that. The bottom line is that the planetary device has nothing to do with the rest of the engine, and it can be replaced as a component or eliminated altogether. Perhaps you'll be able to teach us how it works. The exhaust gasket will likely be compromised when you remove the pipe, but they're cheap and plentiful on eBay. The pipe is really easy to remove. I use flat black Rustoleum / Tremclad with a foam brush, rather than a spray can. I buy bags of foam brushes at the dollar store. I recommend that you change the fluids before running it again. __________________ Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer
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05-10-2011, 10:49 AM	#3
Weldangrind Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Sardis, BC, Canada Posts: 25,977	Upon researching a bit more, I discovered that there is a third style of reverse available for these engines, and it's within the gearbox. Here's a pic: http://www.buggydepot.com/store/inde...roducts_id=285 I found some great tech info here, including how a CVT works: http://www.buggydepot.com/buggy-tech...ggies-Parts/7/ Please show us some close-up shots of the back of your engine, taken from behind the rear axle. __________________ Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer
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05-10-2011, 09:19 PM	#5
Weldangrind Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Sardis, BC, Canada Posts: 25,977	Use this gasket: The paint application method is your choice. I like the brush on type because it's much neater. It makes sense that the gearshift lever is directly connected, rather than cable or lever actuated. Looking forward to the pics. I like synthetics. The typical one quart bottle of gear oil will have a nozzle for a top, so it will be really easy to fill the gearbox. Buy one quart of 75W90 for the gearbox and one quart of 10W30 for the engine. I use Castrol Syntec for both. __________________ Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer
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05-10-2011, 11:41 AM	#4
gtrmaster88 Join Date: May 2011 Location: Morehead, Ky Posts: 20	Yeah I'll definitely be changing the fluids before running it any more. I'll take more pictures of every angle of the engine I can, primarily the ones you mentioned of the rear, and I'll try to have them uploaded either this evening or tomorrow. I'm also going to take some closeups of the sprocket chain area, because I'm not sure what to do about that either; it ran fine yesterday, but I don't want to put anymore tension on the chain in it's current condition... the two adjuster bolts for the chain are there, but one of them is stripped and the nut is just hanging there essentially. They're cheap too, and I added that into the cost for parts already to order within another week or so. Now, there are a couple different types of gaskets on the site that I'm ordering from, and I'm not sure which one I need, or if I need both. Here's a link to the direct page: http://www.motopartsmax.com/index.ph...h/21_122/tID/1, and I'm assuming the one I need is either the one that's just a round circular gasket, or the oval'ish one with two screw holes for mounting, can you confirm which one? Would you recommend doing the brush type paint with foam brushes over spray-bombing? I'll have to find exactly what type of Rustoleum I'll need if I go that route, but if it's better, that's what I'm gonna do. I'm not sure how these things work as you can no doubt tell =P And on a last note, I really don't know if my gearshift is cable-driven or not. I would assume it's some other formation because it seems to come directly off of the gear box, like, it's mounted right to the side of the hunk of metal that comprises the motor and tranny (lol, how's that for a description from an ignoramous?). I'll go ahead and take closeup pics of that as well and maybe you can tell from that :-) So what type of fluids would you recommend to replace the old with? I hear synthetic is a good way to go but I don't personally know. I don't know how much oil I'll need either, and on the gear box, I'm sure I'll have to change that out too, what do you use for replacing the fluid in that? I'll also be greasing those joints like I mentioned.
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