Warning: Fractured Wheel Bearing
 

Several days ago I replaced the Shinko 244 tire on my rear wheel. I always inspect every part of the wheel every time I remove a wheel, or replace a tire. The rear hub has two bearings, and the bearing near the rear sprocket was completely fractured. :wtf: I needed to cut the outer race of the fractured bearing with my dremel tool in order to remove it from the hub. :tdown:

The bearing on the other side, near the brake rotor, was notchy, and ready to fail. I replaced both Chinese bearings with Japanese bearings, which I had in stock for the original hub of my Zongshen ZS200GY-2. ;) The bearing in the sprocket carrier was in good condition. :)

The stock bearings have very little grease in them. I packed the new Japanese bearings with extra grease before I installed them. ;) I have ridden over 13,000 miles on my RX3. However, I encourage everyone to check the wheel bearings, no matter how low your mileage. It is much easier to punch out a wheel bearing before it fractures. ;)

I will post photographs of both Chinese bearings tomorrow.

Spud, please post bearing size or code, thanks

Post Edited to Correct Errors

Since you are in Argentina, you might have an earlier version of the rear hub. It contains the following bearings.

Rear Hub Bearing Sizes

Rear Hub Bearing, Sprocket Side: 6202 2RS
Rear Hub Bearing, Brake Rotor Side: 6302 2RS

Sprocket Carrier Bearing: 6004 2RS

However, CSC, Cyclone RX3 motorcycles sold in the United States contain the following bearings.

Rear Hub Bearing Sizes

Rear Hub Bearing, Sprocket Side: Two 6202 2RS Bearings
Rear Hub Bearing, Brake Rotor Side: Two 6302 2RS Bearings

Sprocket Carrier Bearing: 6004 2RS

If you replace a worn bearing before it fractures, you can easily remove it. I prefer to drive out wheel bearings using a Motion Pro bearing driver and split collet. The bearings in the rear wheel of the RX3 can be removed using the following parts. :tup:

http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/08-0260/

https://ff3d8e6495061f28a832-a7869bb...ms/08-0260.jpg

http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/08-0268/

https://ff3d8e6495061f28a832-a7869bb...ms/08-0264.jpg

Just in case someone hasn't used this method to remove wheel bearings, here's how it works. ;)

http://www.dansmc.com/wheel_bearing_remove.jpg

I have bought individual drivers and split collets for the different sizes of wheel bearings in all my motorcycles. However, if I were buying the bearing drivers today, I would get the Pit Posse Motorcycle Wheel Bearing Remover Kit, PP-1692. :tup:

http://www.amazon.com/Pit-Posse-Moto.../dp/B005SUVQUK

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Motorcycle-W...ZyimIg&vxp=mtr

http://i.ebayimg.com/00/$(KGrHqN,!iM..._id=880000500F

You can decipher the bearing code by reading the information at the following links. ;)

http://www.gizmology.net/bearings.htm
http://www.mymachineinfo.com/2015/07...ion-guide.html
http://www.engineerstudent.co.uk/bea...explained.html
http://www.engineerstudent.co.uk/bea...plained_2.html

For example, a 6202 2RS bearing has the following features.

6 = Deep Groove Ball Bearing (Single row)
2 = Light Duty Bearing
02 = Inner Race Diameter of 15 mm
2RS = 2 Rubber Seals

Wheel bearings fail more quickly when they lack sufficient grease, and every wheel bearing I have examined suffers from this deficit. :wtf: For example, here is a new wheel bearing I was going to install in one of my Honda motorcycles. ;)

http://i442.photobucket.com/albums/q...akepads006.jpg

Therefore, I always pry off both rubber seals, and add more grease to the wheel bearing before I install it. :)

http://i442.photobucket.com/albums/q...akepads008.jpg

Using a bearing driver makes it much easier to remove old bearings.

http://i442.photobucket.com/albums/q...akepads015.jpg

http://www.dansmc.com/wheel_bearing_remove.jpg

Just make sure you get the correct size driver and collet for the bearings you wish to remove. ;)

Very complete information, thanks!

I use my own method to remove bearings, paraphrasing Homer Simpson, there's the right method (yours), the wrong method, and mine, it's like the wrong but slower and with lots of swearing!

Thanks for the warning Spud. I'll replace mine on the first tire change as a precaution. I ride in lots of mud and water so the bearings probably won't last.

Lee, I do also, my bearings have 16K km on them and they're smooth as silk, but as you said it's cheap insurance to change them anyway.

Is this info on the sticky thread about parts? I was about to ask about front bearings also.

great write up
 

This is why this place rocks! Did you put the rubber seals back on afterwards ?

Thanx Spud:tup:

:lmao:

Anchor Bolts and a slide hammer (or a anchor bolt, hammer, and punch combo) can also be used to remove Old Wheel Bearings ;) and they only cost about $1 or so for the size of bearings our bikes use :)

Yes, if you can make sure BOTH sides have seals (some new bearings have seals on 1 side only, just clean up and re-use your old seals to cover both sides if needed :) ), this way dirt/dust/water/debris of any kind will stay out of the bearings ;)

Yes, you need the seals to keep the grease inside the bearing, and to keep water and dirt outside the bearing. This is why you want 2RS bearings, with two rubber seals. You don't want metal seals, which cannot be removed to add extra grease, and which don't protect as well as rubber seals. ;)

Darn I answered almost everything... but I forgot to mention about those pesky "Metal Sealed" ones, thanks for reminding me Spud :tup: I haven't seen that style in a while so I forgots about them :hehe:

I like that wheel bearing removal kit.


When adding grease to a bearing, a needle attachment for a grease gun is helpful.

Thanks Juanro, I'm glad yours are holding up. I'm a little worried as the ride report from an early RX3 has wheel bearing failures as well (then no more ride report, I think he made it from China to Turkey).

Seems cheap insurance as you said, to just punch out the current ones and drop in some known higher quality pieces.

Love the pictures from down south by the way, I'm planning a trip with a friend but it's a few years out to head south and I need to work on my Spanish a bit to get the most from it.

Lee

I'm going to check my front bearings once again. If I have the correct size in stock, I am going to replace them, also. ;)

If I were starting over again, I would definitely get the complete Pit Posse Kit, with the plastic case. :tup: I have spent as much on the individual parts, and I still lack a few collets and the nice plastic case. ;)

I use either my finger, or a welding flux brush to apply extra grease to the bearings. ;)

I seem to recall (but can't find the source right now) that the bearing problems the guy ("Silkrider" or something like that?) had were caused by failing to replace some spacer when dismounting the rear wheel?

That would definitely make for some unhappy bearings. It's too bad we never got a conclusion to that ride report!

I speculated the Silk Road Rider might not have tightened the axle adjusting nuts properly. :shrug: However, I am now inclined to believe the problem might reside with dry, perhaps inferior wheel bearings.

Ordinarily, I would have noticed a notchy wheel bearing a long time before it fractured. However, my Shinko, 244 rear tire lasted so long, I didn't remove the rear wheel for inspection as often as usual. ;)

Come on, are you going to tell me that you don't dismantle the whole bike, just for the fun, every other weekend?

:lmao:

I'm pleased to report the front wheel employs two, 6302 2RS bearings, and they were in excellent condition. :tup:

Spud :thanks:

once again

Do you have a link where I can buy the higher quality Japanese bearings?

This is sad, don't even have my bike yet and went ahead and picked the bearings up today while at work. At least I'll have them....

Bearngs
 

Wonder if the TT uses the same bearings........

Everytime I log in, I see a new " oh crap , i better check that thing" post.

but seriously , i'm have a fun time putzing around on my little hawk. The mikuni was a big improvement on several fronts.

I bought mine years ago from Bearing Resource, but I don't think they are selling online any more. :shrug: Check the following thread. ;)

http://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=5243

I found NACHI brand Japanese bearings on Amazon, in the sizes you listed. They were about $7 each, as opposed to $1 - $3 for the other brands.

What is the size for the front wheel? I'll just make a go of it, and buy all 5 right now.

The front wheel employs two, 6302 2RS bearings.

Post Edited to Correct Errors

CSC, Cyclone RX3 motorcycles sold in the United States contain the following bearings.

Rear Hub Bearing Sizes

Rear Hub Bearing, Sprocket Side: Two 6202 2RS Bearings
Rear Hub Bearing, Brake Rotor Side: Two 6302 2RS Bearings

Sprocket Carrier Bearing: 6004 2RS

Forum members living in foreign countries might have an earlier version of the rear hub. It contains the following bearings.

Rear Hub Bearing Sizes

Rear Hub Bearing, Sprocket Side: 6202 2RS
Rear Hub Bearing, Brake Rotor Side: 6302 2RS

Sprocket Carrier Bearing: 6004 2RS

5 bearings totaled $22! For piece of mind, sounds good to me!

If I recall correctly, bearings were the only issue with some guy riding through Europe, right?

Post Edited to Correct Errors

I think the Silk Road Rider only had problems with his rear wheel, and I wouldn't be surprised if it was only the 6202 bearing causing the problem. ;)

The 6302 bearings are large and robust. The 6004 bearing is serving light duty in the sprocket carrier. As long as these bearings are packed with sufficient grease, I don't think they will cause any problems. However, I received a replacement rear hub from CSC which only had two bearings. I suspect the Silk Road Rider had the same hub, and the weak spot is the single, 6202 bearing in the rear hub. RX3 bikes sold in North America have an upgraded rear hub which contains four bearings, instead of two.

In post 37 you posted the bearing # as 6203. Is one a typo?

Can the bearings be re-greased in place (without removing them from the wheel)?