Thanks for posting the update, Racer. :)

Quote from FAI page (High injection pressure and better atomization
Over 5MPa is generated inside the pressure volume of the power nozzle by the electromagnetic driving energy and so better fuel atomization is possible to generate finely atomized fuel spray. This feature ensures the engine’s cold start ability and drivability during engine warm-up.) I had not taken the time to look at the number posted and figure out what it means . 5Mpa means nothing to me . so I ask the internet. 5 mpa to psi
5Mpa = 725.1885psi wow huge pressure

I would have an easier time believing kPa.

Neither makes any sense. MPa puts it at fuel rail bursting pressure and KPa puts it under 1 psi. Now I know the average for a car fuel rail is in the thirties or forties, and a motorcycle maybe lower, but not under 1 psi low.

In this setup ,all the fuel lines have no pressure. pressure is made in the injector assembly. see the pictures on this page http://www.fai.com.cn/English/Techno...04-30/105.html On new cars with direct cylinder injection pressure can be as high as 2200psi ,but it has a pump ,like a diesel injection pump

Mail from china ..

I did not realize the tool is a android phone . I could have saved that money . I just found out this is a newly released update ,before was a plug in scan tool

Is that an O2 sensor, that sort of resembles a spark plug?

Yes it is an o2 sensor . I was happy to see it, the car o2 sensors are so bulky . My first chore will be extending the timing tab . I almost wish I had told them to set it up standard , then I would know how end user friendly and results ,with standard timing . I will be trying to get a clean sine wave from the tab , as to not upset the controller. May end up being a real chore .

Did you get an O2 sensor bung that must be welded in the pipe?

Any idea what the injector specs are?

The weld bung you can see on the wire in the picture. The injector specs I don't know or even if the normal pounds or liter per hour translate well . I did measure the bore at 28mm. I did ask how much kw or horsepower it could support , I didn't get the answer I was looking for .. he said now has been tested to 300cc engines :hehe: I am sure there's a difference in talking to sales or an engineer, but normally it is the sales person that can use english

I did not want to just extend the timing tab without checking for myself first . I found a small printable degree wheel online . it is as they said 35btdc leading edge and 15btdc trailing edge at the pickup point on my 167fmm engine . I also have the original 163fml the bike came with , exactly the same timing points . In order to insure a clean sine wave I may remove the original tab completely and add a full strip tab .

Are you concerned about the transition from the original tab to an added tab?

Yes that and maintaining an even height , to be evenly magnetic all the way across . Maybe I am playing over kill ,but I always feel done once, done right ,is done . I don't want to second guess it ,should a running problem arise. I am thinking now . how to fashion a lathe to machine true or weld and grind

You're obviously more experienced with such things than I am, but I wouldn't weld near a magnet that I care about, especially a flywheel. Can you use metal epoxy?