Wobble

[aaw611]

Hey folks, the bike has a little more wobble in the front when hitting bumps and imperfections in the road than I'm comfortable with. I ordered new wheel bearings to have on hand because I suspect they may be part of the problem.



Does anyone have torque specs for the triple tree/steering head on the Hawk? I'd like to tighten everything up there before I do the wheel bearings when they only have 500 miles on them.

[motochutuya]

the csc manual says 10 for triple tree

[RussellTA]

Originally Posted by aaw611

Hey folks, the bike has a little more wobble in the front when hitting bumps and imperfections in the road than I'm comfortable with. I ordered new wheel bearings to have on hand because I suspect they may be part of the problem.



Does anyone have torque specs for the triple tree/steering head on the Hawk? I'd like to tighten everything up there before I do the wheel bearings when they only have 500 miles on them.

The tire pressure in the front, or even the back could be causing that.
The other thing to check could be your rear axle alignment. Make sure the chain tension alignment marks on both sides are the same. This usually causes a weird feeling in the corners too though

TR

[TxTaoRider]

When I got my tbr7 the head bearings were loose but had a bunch of grease. I put it on my jack and snugged it down. I moved the bars back and forth. I did that a couple times until I felt just a little drag.

[Megadan]

The actual steering stem castle nut doesn't really have a torque spec. Tighten until there is a little bit of drag when you turn the bars, but no binding. If it feels or sounds clunky or clicky, back it off and check again.

The actual upper triple top nut torque spec is around 50ft-lbs. (TT250 Spec).

[Midnyte Ryder]

Originally Posted by aaw611

Hey folks, the bike has a little more wobble in the front when hitting bumps and imperfections in the road than I'm comfortable with. I ordered new wheel bearings to have on hand because I suspect they may be part of the problem.



Does anyone have torque specs for the triple tree/steering head on the Hawk? I'd like to tighten everything up there before I do the wheel bearings when they only have 500 miles on them.

Put the bike on a stand and grab the fork lowers and try to move the assembly back and forth to check for slop. The bars wont always reveal a stem to be loose.

Undoubtedly after the advice I am about to offer for free, someone will chime in with "well I have that bike and I didnt have to do that to it".

Get a fork brace. The hawk stanchions are noodles. If you will notice, the forks were originally engineered for lightweight street bikes, as evidenced by the fender bosses. Street bikes almost always have either a metal fender or a metal fender support that links those 2 forks together, greatly increasing overall rigidity, responsiveness and predictably of the frontend.

[Megadan]

Originally Posted by Midnyte Ryder

Undoubtedly after the advice I am about to offer for free, someone will chime in with "well I have that bike and I didnt have to do that to it".

.

Originally Posted by Midnyte Ryder

. If you will notice, the forks were originally engineered for lightweight street bikes, as evidenced by the fender bosses.

Aside from the Honda XR150 and a small hand full of other light offroad bikes that use the same diameter (31mm) noodle forks. The forks initial design are indeed from a CG125, which is definitely primarily a road bike.

The fork brace is definitely worth doing though, I do agree. It's night and day.