Brozz 250 Head Porting

[tknj99]

HI All,

At this point, being past break-in and 1 month into the Brozz Recon, I feel that i have done all of the performance and rideability mods on my list. However, the last frontier still looms ahead and its something I would definitely like to plan for: the head porting work.
From reading several threads on here, i get the general idea for what needs to be done, sans a detailed how-to thread. But I haven't read of this work being done on the Brozz and am wondering if the Brozz head has the high level of obstruction at the exhaust port that the Hawk has. It seems there may be variances between the manufacturers as ive read that the CSC has better machining from the factory, leading me to my question on the Brozz.
If anyone know please chime in.
I am mostly interested in making changes only to the exhaust port to yield the best ban for the buck (or time) gains. Especially since ive never done such a task, i would rather err on the side of caution and keep Murphy at bay.

Also, if anyone is in the central VA area and wouldn't mind lending a hand, that would be greatly appreciated as well..

Thanks guys..

[Deckard_Cain]

Can't help ya much with the how to, but I put a Brozz 250 head on my 2020 Hawk.

While it is said that the Brozz head is better in some respects, it still benefits greatly from the head porting, polishing, port matching. That's why I bought mine. I bought it bare from Jeff at Peace Sports, had it shipped to a very good engine builder who specializes in the CG and CB variants out in NY. He did an amazing job on my head and sent it back to me.

The power added was awesome! Comparing the stock vs ported head, around the valve guides on both intake and exh sides are quite restrictive. It's not just the exh that needs work, a general clean up and smoothing out of the entire air pathway is best.

[tknj99]

Originally Posted by Deckard_Cain

Can't help ya much with the how to, but I put a Brozz 250 head on my 2020 Hawk.

While it is said that the Brozz head is better in some respects, it still benefits greatly from the head porting, polishing, port matching. That's why I bought mine. I bought it bare from Jeff at Peace Sports, had it shipped to a very good engine builder who specializes in the CG and CB variants out in NY. He did an amazing job on my head and sent it back to me.

The power added was awesome! Comparing the stock vs ported head, around the valve guides on both intake and exh sides are quite restrictive. It's not just the exh that needs work, a general clean up and smoothing out of the entire air pathway is best.

Thanks, how much did he charge for that work?

[Deckard_Cain]

Originally Posted by tknj99

Thanks, how much did he charge for that work?

$150, plus $20 shipping back to me. I paid I think it was $35 or 40 for the bare head (originally wanted a fully assembled head but was out of stock - OK because my original valvetrain only had 300 miles on it and was re-used).

So for basically $200 I got the ported and polished head, I put the larger port matched Brozz250 intake manifold on with my vm26 clone carb. Paired with my full stainless exhaust, she rips like a beast.

I also used the thinner half-height head gasket which figures out to bump compression by another half point or so.

I feel it was absolutely well worth it.

[China Rider 27]

Should you decide to take the leap, I would suggest starting a thread on it and take lots of good pictures! There is always something to be learned from modification efforts. You can never have enough pictures of intake and exhaust ports to study in my view. It would be especially enlightening to see how a "professional" head porter cuts the ports.

[tknj99]

I definitely would.. As of now i have elementary questions.. for example..
ive removed the valve cover to do valve adjustments and that was simple..
What would need to be removed..
- gas tank i assume
- valve cover i assume
- valves and springs? how is that done? any special tool needed? anything to be concerned with, such as a spring or something popping out?
- then is it a couple nuts to remove the head?
- can i re-use the head gasket or will it fall apart once removed?
- anything else to be worried about, ie.. make sure x or y is covered to prevent debris entering engine?
- For the actual work, i do have a dremel with some old attachments, any other attachments that are required that arent part of the cheapo kit i got years back?
- any special sand paper i need?

My biggest fear is to start the work and then bungle something up because i tend to learn the hard way, ie.. when i did my inverted forks i watched the wrong video and thought it wise to remove the bottom allen bolt, big mistake

[RedCrowRides]

Joe Henner is absolute fire on head porting and has long experience with the CG clone engines, and his pricing his very reasonable. You can locate at him at joe henner motorsports on facebook or through the RXB owners group page on facebook. i am all for learning new skills but if you might consider paying to have it done by a pro then joe is as good as they come and his pricing is decidely amazing given the quality of his work.dont tell him i said so tho, or he might go up on rates lol !

[China Rider 27]

Originally Posted by tknj99

I definitely would.. As of now i have elementary questions.. for example..
ive removed the valve cover to do valve adjustments and that was simple..
What would need to be removed..
- gas tank i assume
- valve cover i assume
- valves and springs? how is that done? any special tool needed? anything to be concerned with, such as a spring or something popping out?
- then is it a couple nuts to remove the head?
- can i re-use the head gasket or will it fall apart once removed?
- anything else to be worried about, ie.. make sure x or y is covered to prevent debris entering engine?
- For the actual work, i do have a dremel with some old attachments, any other attachments that are required that arent part of the cheapo kit i got years back?
- any special sand paper i need?

My biggest fear is to start the work and then bungle something up because i tend to learn the hard way, ie.. when i did my inverted forks i watched the wrong video and thought it wise to remove the bottom allen bolt, big mistake

Here are couple of links, one contains reference to another provider of head porting services. Megadan videos you can't go wrong.

http://www.chinariders.net/showthrea...t=head+porting

t=23004&highlight=head+porting

[tknj99]

Thanks, thats an amazing video and answered most of my questions

[Deckard_Cain]

Originally Posted by RedCrowRides

Joe Henner is absolute fire on head porting and has long experience with the CG clone engines, and his pricing his very reasonable. You can locate at him at joe henner motorsports on facebook or through the RXB owners group page on facebook. i am all for learning new skills but if you might consider paying to have it done by a pro then joe is as good as they come and his pricing is decidely amazing given the quality of his work.dont tell him i said so tho, or he might go up on rates lol !

Joe is who did my Brozz head for my 2020 Hawk. Phenomenal work and equally excellent performance gain from it.

[China Rider 27]

Realized my link to the Head Thread was inoperative. Corrected in above post and I highly recommend those interested in head porting read through the accomplished Forum Head Porters.

http://www.chinariders.net/showthrea...t=head+porting

[tknj99]

So i've gathered that in order to remove the head and be able to re-assemble (even if i pay sometime to do the head work) i will at least need to purchase a valve spring compression tool, no biggie, about $20... then if i choose to do the work myself i can use my rotary tool but may just need to buy some carbide bits for the work.. my set has a few sandpaper discs and wheels and metal tip pieces along with some pink stone ones that im not sure if would help for this type of metal work.
It seems like if you go thru the trouble of removing tank, valve cover, springs, head, it probably is worth going the extra mile to at least work on the exhaust port and perhaps that is sufficient for the Brozz head..
I'll probably table this for a week that it snows

[Deckard_Cain]

Originally Posted by tknj99

So i've gathered that in order to remove the head and be able to re-assemble (even if i pay sometime to do the head work) i will at least need to purchase a valve spring compression tool, no biggie, about $20... then if i choose to do the work myself i can use my rotary tool but may just need to buy some carbide bits for the work.. my set has a few sandpaper discs and wheels and metal tip pieces along with some pink stone ones that im not sure if would help for this type of metal work.
It seems like if you go thru the trouble of removing tank, valve cover, springs, head, it probably is worth going the extra mile to at least work on the exhaust port and perhaps that is sufficient for the Brozz head..
I'll probably table this for a week that it snows

Maybe it's different Brozz to Hawk (shouldn't be) but I did not have to remove my fuel tank to pull the head.

Many head port shops will disassemble a complete head if that's what you send them.. they may charge a small fee to do so and reassemble it though, and after fighting with getting mine back together, it'd be worth it to know it's done and done right.

Also, be careful with carbide bits, they'll hog off aluminum in seconds and if you slip or go too far, it's too late. You may find that aggressive grit sanding drums are safer for your first time going at it.

That being said, the entire top half of the CG engine can be disassembled in less than 20 mins.

[TxTaoRider]

I ordered a complete brozz head from Peace to work on later, and it has some type of egr port on the head (my tbr7 doesn't have it). What did you use to cap it off with?

[China Rider 27]

Originally Posted by TxTaoRider

I ordered a complete brozz head from Peace to work on later, and it has some type of egr port on the head (my tbr7 doesn't have it). What did you use to cap it off with?

1/8 inch flat aluminum sheet. I think you can buy it a Home Depot or Lowes maybe. Use paper to trace the outline on the head. Transfer to aluminum, draw, cut with jig saw, drill bolt holes, and shape with grinder. Home Depot has MM bolts to fit. I didn't use a gasket on mine seems to seal. Later I am going to put some high temp RV gasket maker on it. Somebody had bought one to fit off ebay somewhere.