leaking fork oil on TT

[flopsweat]

So here's a new one. I just noticed yesterday it looks like my right fork is barely leaking oil right at the top. I know nothing about what's going on under there, and I'm still barely within my 1yr warranty, do you guys think this is something I should contact CSC about? Could it just be a bad gasket or something? How involved might the process be to get this taken care of? I've got about 4200 miles on it.

[JerryHawk250]

I would contact CSC. It's more than likely a bad o-ring or seal at the adjustment screw. It's something you could do if they send you the parts. Just make sue you have all the weight off the front end when removing the cap and be careful removing the cap as it has a spring behind it.

Damper Cap. https://cscmotorcycles.com/dampining...lacement-part/

[TominMO]

At Harbor Freight they have a box of O-rings in many different sizes. Or go to an auto parts store and see if they can match it up.

[flopsweat]

So if they sent me a new one, would I just prop up the front end, unbolt the cap, mind the spring, and replace the cap? Would I need to get fork oil and top it off? What about the adjustment screw? Hah I'm actually not even sure what that does, I started looking up the difference between dampening/preload/rebound and think it confused me even more.

[zero_dgz]

Originally Posted by TominMO

At Harbor Freight they have a box of O-rings in many different sizes. Or go to an auto parts store and see if they can match it up.

I'll vote the second one. Let me say this about that: I have three different sets of those damn Harbor Freight o-ring assortments and I don't think I've ever in my life actually found one in there that's the right size for anything. I don't know if their sizing is whack in typical HF tradition or I'm just unlucky or what. I still check every time, though, I guess because hope springs eternal and if I didn't I'd feel like I wasted seventeen bucks all those years ago.

[JerryHawk250]

That's pretty much it. Check with CSC for the proper fork oil level. I don't want to give you the wrong information.

[TominMO]

Originally Posted by zero_dgz

I'll vote the second one. Let me say this about that: I have three different sets of those damn Harbor Freight to-ring assortments and I don't think I've ever in my life actually found one in there that's the right size for anything. I don't know if their sizing is whack in typical HF tradition or I'm just unlucky or what. I still check every time, though, I guess because hope springs eternal and if I didn't I'd feel like I wasted seventeen bucks all those years ago.

It may also be that the parts store O-rings are better quality. Or maybe they are made in China too, who knows.

[flopsweat]

I just sent an email to CSC, I'd rather just get the original entire cap. I work at a motor repair company and we have o-rings up the wahzoo and might be able to find one that fits, but you never know if one of those is just a millimeter off spec from what it should be. Having never done this I don't want to mess around with it more than I have to in case something doesn't fit nicely.



On a side note of embarrassment, that email I just sent piggybacked on another, as I believed a strange intermittent sound was coming from my dash when I turned the key. He sent me a replacement dash immediately, I installed it, and realized the buzzing was actually the FAN in my LED headlamp. Dumbo, is I. So I let him know and want to return the part back to them.

[Hunnicutt]

We've all had those moments. You could just send them the $$ for the dash and keep it as a spare.

Originally Posted by flopsweat

On a side note of embarrassment, that email I just sent piggybacked on another, as I believed a strange intermittent sound was coming from my dash when I turned the key. He sent me a replacement dash immediately, I installed it, and realized the buzzing was actually the FAN in my LED headlamp. Dumbo, is I. So I let him know and want to return the part back to them.

[flopsweat]

Matt over at CSC asked me politely if I could send it back, he said they have very limited quantity of those, and I'm more than happy to do so for these guys. He priority shipped me a box with return label, along with the o-rings, I got it in two days, and just shipped the dash back today. Hopefully I'll find some time this week to replace the o-rings, he sent me two so I might as well do them both.

[Hunnicutt]

The crew at CSC is the best of the best!!!! I'm glad they took care of you again, flopsweat!!

[flopsweat]

So I gave this a shot this weekend and came up short. Matt sent me two small o-rings (maybe 5-8mm), I jacked up the footpegs to get weight off the front wheel, loosened the clamp bolt, realized the dampening screw was fully CCW (which I still don't know exactly if I should be adjusting that for 90% street and I'm 170lbs, so I just left them as-is), started to unscrew the big cap, and could not get it past the last threads. I can feel it at it's end-of-travel, as the threads are "skipping" if that makes sense, but cannot get the thing to pop out. Noticing that it's a pretty soft metal, I didn't want to keep prying at it without getting some help, so I'm waiting back to hear from csc. Am I missing something? Or is it just a thread that's being a pain and needs to be carefully worked free? I really don't know what the assembly is underneath, and assume the o-ring is going to go on the underside of the cap around the adjustable screw.

This is just showing the extent of my handiwork, and as far as I got before tightening everything back up and calling it a day.

[Megadan]

The cap is most likely secured to a rod. You need to remove the fork in order to slide the stanchion tube down to gain access to a flat spot so you can hold it with a wrench whilst loosening the cap.

[flopsweat]

So I'm a bit confused, does the stanchion tube need to get pushed down in order to free the cap? And does the fork coming off mean the wheel comes off as well? I can definitely tell both caps will not budge off after unscrewing them, and csc has been slow to respond other than also saying it's connected to a rod.

[Megadan]

Originally Posted by flopsweat

So I'm a bit confused, does the stanchion tube need to get pushed down in order to free the cap? And does the fork coming off mean the wheel comes off as well? I can definitely tell both caps will not budge off after unscrewing them, and csc has been slow to respond other than also saying it's connected to a rod.

this is specifically if you need to remove the cap completely. The fork needs to be removed from the triple tree clamps and then yes the stanchion tube needs to be moved down. Then you will see that the cap is screwed into a tube/bar inside the fork itself.

If the cap needs to be removed fully or not to do the work you need to do I cannot answer. I would most likely guess it does though.