Yamaha Vino 125 replacement motor

ridgerunner · 12-16-2012, 03:45 PM

I have a 2008 Vino 125, and I was looking at a replacement motor. I noticed the GY6 150 engines seem to have the motor mount on top of the engine near the started. The Vino motor mount is on the bottom of the engine. I did find a 139 QMB engine that has the bottom mounts - but it's only a 49cc. Just wondering if anyone else out there has been able to get replacement engines for the 125 Vino?

Weldangrind · 12-16-2012, 08:34 PM

I think that the Vino (being Yamaha) is a totally different animal. Instead of trying to fit a GY6 in it, have you considered a big bore kit? BTW, I've never seen a bottom mount GY6.

katoranger · 12-16-2012, 08:40 PM

There may be bottom mount GY6 engines out there, but I don't think they are common.

http://www.scrappydogscooters.com/ has some good info. I think I would consider fixing the stock engine.

ridgerunner · 12-16-2012, 11:02 PM

I was just actually weighing my options. One of my muffler mount bolts broke off in the case. I tried using a easy out but it broke. So now I either need to find someone who can weld aluminum to weld a new ear on it, or buy a new case. I did find a new case for around $80. If I go that route I figure I may as well go with one of the big bore kits too. I finally realized this scooter wasn't designed for a 36 mile commute every day. Especially since I'm having a hard time finding a rear tire that lasts for more than 2.000 miles. I bought this in April of 2011 with 1500 miles on the clock; it now has 15,400.

katoranger · 12-17-2012, 10:58 AM

It shouldn't be hard to find someone to fix the case. What speeds are you travelling at? I rode my elite 150 about 45 miles a day and it was 27 years old. Tires will only last about 2-3K on the rear just get good at putting them on yourself and order two at a time.

If you build the engine up keep a spare belt ready too.

ridgerunner · 12-17-2012, 08:51 PM

I do about 50 mph. I did find if I slow down to about 40 - 45 I get better fuel economy. I thought of another way of fixing my case today. I'm going to try to cut the ear off, get a metal sleeve about the same size as the bolt, and JB Weld it back together. I'm also going to make sure the muffler matches up to the bolt holes before bolting it on. I had it welded recently and a buddy told me the metal may have distorted just a bit. I figure I should be able to tweak the exhaust pipe a little to get everything lined up right to relieve any stress that may be there.

Weldangrind · 12-18-2012, 09:47 AM

Please take pics of the process. Sounds interesting. BTW, a product like Tech Steel is a really good option, as it's more like modelling clay. You mix a catalyst into it like JB Weld, but it's easier to form to odd surfaces.

ridgerunner · 12-18-2012, 08:37 PM

Thanks for the tip. I never thought about taking pics. I read on the back of the JB Weld package that it can be drilled and tapped once hardened. It should take about 24 hours to cure. Hopefully I can get this project started on Saturday. I would like to ride again on Monday.

ridgerunner · 12-18-2012, 09:26 PM

This is the bottom mount hole; it's hard to tell but
the threads are stripped. That happened when I
changed my first tire and forgot to locktite the bolts.
The top mount bolt vibrated out and it damaged the
other two bolt holes. It's not just China scooters that
need loctite!

This is the top mount hole. You can see the bolt
broken off inside. My plan is to use the Dremel to
cut down from the top and bottom; take it off and
remove the bolt. I'll then JB Weld it back on and
when it cures drill and tap new threads. I'm also
going to fill the bottom hole with the JB Weld and
drill and tap that.

This is the best picture I could find that shows the
bolt hole positions. It kind of gives you an idea of
what I'm dealing with. The cost for this project is
less than $10.00. If it works great. If not then it's
time for a new right side case and an engine rebuild.
If I have to split the case, I'm not going to just put it
back together without rebuilding it. It's a strong runner
so hopefully the JB will work.

ridgerunner · 04-03-2013, 06:07 PM

So I was able to grind out the easy out; I also drilled it out. I filled the hole with JB Weld. I put a helicoil in both the top and bottom holes. The bottom hole was stripped, and I didn't trust just cutting threads in the JB Weld. Here's the muffler I went with. It's a temporary fix until the exhaust I want comes back in stock.

I really like how it cleaned up the side of the scooter.

Following the advice from one of my friends, I did a check on the plug. It looks a little rich so I have a jet on order. I also decided to go with a pod filter and oil catch can to clean up the other side of the scooter as well.

Weldangrind · 04-03-2013, 10:22 PM

I like your Briggs and Stratton muffler.

It's hard to tell from your pic, but it looks a little lean to me. The ceramic around the electrode seems to be very white.

ridgerunner · 04-03-2013, 11:15 PM

For some reason my phone focused on the ground instead of the plug. The ceramic is OK, but the L electrode is white. On one of the color charts I saw it's lean but may be ok. Hopefully the new jet will be here so I can change it out this weekend. I found a more accurate picture on line of what the plug looked like.

Weldangrind · 04-04-2013, 02:02 AM

Do you intend to make it richer with a new jet?

ridgerunner · 04-04-2013, 02:12 AM

Yes. I'm also going to check the position of the needle. I want the plug to be a bit darker than it is now. I don't want to take a chance of burning a hole in the piston. Although that would give me a reason to do a big bore kit.

I commute 18 miles one way with this scooter, so I have to make sure the air fuel thing is spot on.

ridgerunner · 04-13-2013, 05:54 PM

Got the jet changed out today, and checked the plug. It was a nice grey/tan color. Looks like it's dialed in now. Last week with it still running lean, when I was going against the wind it was cutting out and would barely do 35 mph. Today running into the wind it was strong and would do 40.

12-16-2012, 03:45 PM	#1
ridgerunner Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Fairbury, IL Posts: 63	Yamaha Vino 125 replacement motor I have a 2008 Vino 125, and I was looking at a replacement motor. I noticed the GY6 150 engines seem to have the motor mount on top of the engine near the started. The Vino motor mount is on the bottom of the engine. I did find a 139 QMB engine that has the bottom mounts - but it's only a 49cc. Just wondering if anyone else out there has been able to get replacement engines for the 125 Vino?
	0

12-16-2012, 08:34 PM	#2
Weldangrind Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Sardis, BC, Canada Posts: 25,977	I think that the Vino (being Yamaha) is a totally different animal. Instead of trying to fit a GY6 in it, have you considered a big bore kit? BTW, I've never seen a bottom mount GY6. __________________ Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer
	0

12-16-2012, 08:40 PM	#3
katoranger Join Date: May 2007 Location: Altamont, Kansas Posts: 15,103	There may be bottom mount GY6 engines out there, but I don't think they are common. http://www.scrappydogscooters.com/ has some good info. I think I would consider fixing the stock engine. __________________ You meet the nicest people on a Honda Clone.
	0

12-17-2012, 10:58 AM	#5
katoranger Join Date: May 2007 Location: Altamont, Kansas Posts: 15,103	It shouldn't be hard to find someone to fix the case. What speeds are you travelling at? I rode my elite 150 about 45 miles a day and it was 27 years old. Tires will only last about 2-3K on the rear just get good at putting them on yourself and order two at a time. If you build the engine up keep a spare belt ready too. __________________ You meet the nicest people on a Honda Clone.
	0

12-18-2012, 09:47 AM	#7
Weldangrind Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Sardis, BC, Canada Posts: 25,977	Please take pics of the process. Sounds interesting. BTW, a product like Tech Steel is a really good option, as it's more like modelling clay. You mix a catalyst into it like JB Weld, but it's easier to form to odd surfaces. __________________ Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer
	0

12-16-2012, 11:02 PM	#4
ridgerunner Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Fairbury, IL Posts: 63	I was just actually weighing my options. One of my muffler mount bolts broke off in the case. I tried using a easy out but it broke. So now I either need to find someone who can weld aluminum to weld a new ear on it, or buy a new case. I did find a new case for around $80. If I go that route I figure I may as well go with one of the big bore kits too. I finally realized this scooter wasn't designed for a 36 mile commute every day. Especially since I'm having a hard time finding a rear tire that lasts for more than 2.000 miles. I bought this in April of 2011 with 1500 miles on the clock; it now has 15,400.
	0

12-17-2012, 08:51 PM	#6
ridgerunner Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Fairbury, IL Posts: 63	I do about 50 mph. I did find if I slow down to about 40 - 45 I get better fuel economy. I thought of another way of fixing my case today. I'm going to try to cut the ear off, get a metal sleeve about the same size as the bolt, and JB Weld it back together. I'm also going to make sure the muffler matches up to the bolt holes before bolting it on. I had it welded recently and a buddy told me the metal may have distorted just a bit. I figure I should be able to tweak the exhaust pipe a little to get everything lined up right to relieve any stress that may be there.
	0

12-18-2012, 08:37 PM	#8
ridgerunner Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Fairbury, IL Posts: 63	Thanks for the tip. I never thought about taking pics. I read on the back of the JB Weld package that it can be drilled and tapped once hardened. It should take about 24 hours to cure. Hopefully I can get this project started on Saturday. I would like to ride again on Monday.
	0

12-18-2012, 09:26 PM	#9
ridgerunner Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Fairbury, IL Posts: 63	This is the bottom mount hole; it's hard to tell but the threads are stripped. That happened when I changed my first tire and forgot to locktite the bolts. The top mount bolt vibrated out and it damaged the other two bolt holes. It's not just China scooters that need loctite! This is the top mount hole. You can see the bolt broken off inside. My plan is to use the Dremel to cut down from the top and bottom; take it off and remove the bolt. I'll then JB Weld it back on and when it cures drill and tap new threads. I'm also going to fill the bottom hole with the JB Weld and drill and tap that. This is the best picture I could find that shows the bolt hole positions. It kind of gives you an idea of what I'm dealing with. The cost for this project is less than $10.00. If it works great. If not then it's time for a new right side case and an engine rebuild. If I have to split the case, I'm not going to just put it back together without rebuilding it. It's a strong runner so hopefully the JB will work.
	0

04-03-2013, 06:07 PM	#10
ridgerunner Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Fairbury, IL Posts: 63	It works So I was able to grind out the easy out; I also drilled it out. I filled the hole with JB Weld. I put a helicoil in both the top and bottom holes. The bottom hole was stripped, and I didn't trust just cutting threads in the JB Weld. Here's the muffler I went with. It's a temporary fix until the exhaust I want comes back in stock. I really like how it cleaned up the side of the scooter. Following the advice from one of my friends, I did a check on the plug. It looks a little rich so I have a jet on order. I also decided to go with a pod filter and oil catch can to clean up the other side of the scooter as well.
	0

04-03-2013, 10:22 PM	#11
Weldangrind Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Sardis, BC, Canada Posts: 25,977	I like your Briggs and Stratton muffler. It's hard to tell from your pic, but it looks a little lean to me. The ceramic around the electrode seems to be very white. __________________ Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer
	0

04-03-2013, 11:15 PM	#12
ridgerunner Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Fairbury, IL Posts: 63	For some reason my phone focused on the ground instead of the plug. The ceramic is OK, but the L electrode is white. On one of the color charts I saw it's lean but may be ok. Hopefully the new jet will be here so I can change it out this weekend. I found a more accurate picture on line of what the plug looked like.
	0

04-04-2013, 02:02 AM	#13
Weldangrind Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Sardis, BC, Canada Posts: 25,977	Do you intend to make it richer with a new jet? __________________ Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer
	0

04-04-2013, 02:12 AM	#14
ridgerunner Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Fairbury, IL Posts: 63	Yes. I'm also going to check the position of the needle. I want the plug to be a bit darker than it is now. I don't want to take a chance of burning a hole in the piston. Although that would give me a reason to do a big bore kit. I commute 18 miles one way with this scooter, so I have to make sure the air fuel thing is spot on.
	0

04-13-2013, 05:54 PM	#15
ridgerunner Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Fairbury, IL Posts: 63	Got the jet changed out today, and checked the plug. It was a nice grey/tan color. Looks like it's dialed in now. Last week with it still running lean, when I was going against the wind it was cutting out and would barely do 35 mph. Today running into the wind it was strong and would do 40.
	0