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Old 12-10-2010, 07:21 PM   #1
BrianW   BrianW is offline
 
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Learning to weld.

I want to learn how. I don't expect to be a professional or make money doing it. I just want to be able to make, fix, and/or fabricate things at will. Maybe the occasional exhaust repair on the ol' Subaru. When I do a quick Google search, the amount of information that comes up is overwhelming.


 
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Old 12-10-2010, 08:56 PM   #2
yellowxj   yellowxj is offline
 
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I took a great non certification course at my local adult technical center...check out continuting ed in your area.


 
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Old 12-10-2010, 11:18 PM   #3
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I think I'd like to learn to, I've done a bit, but my dad or brother have always set the welder up so I just kind of point and shoot, I need more practice, and knowledge.
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Old 12-10-2010, 11:37 PM   #4
Weldangrind   Weldangrind is offline
 
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This would be my hot button.

I'm no professional, just a hack. Turns out, you don't have to be a good weldor, just a good grinder.

A MIG is your friend. If you can fog a mirror, you can MIG weld. I bought the Haynes welding manual and read it cover to cover. It covers all processes and includes plasma torches.

Buy a machine that has infinitely variable voltage control, vs a machine with four, five or six voltage selections. As an example, Miller and Hobart are the same company with virtually identical machines in the entry level, but the Hobart only offers six voltage settings. Not ideal.

If I was buying a 110 machine today, it would be this: http://www.eastwood.com/mig-welder-1...5a-output.html
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Old 12-10-2010, 11:40 PM   #5
Jim   Jim is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Weldangrind
Turns out, you don't have to be a good weldor, just a good grinder.
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Old 12-11-2010, 01:01 AM   #6
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Back in the day....it was basically arc or gas that was in an average garage. Now....the wire feed welders they offer can make almost anyone a 'decent, basic welder'.
How do I know? I've never welded because, like most here, I've had friends who welded!
Then my roommate many years back bought one of those Lincoln wire feed units. We got an ice chest full of beer and started welding anything we could find one night in my garage. Even made little stick men out of shake nails.
I still don't concider myself a welder, by any stretch.....but with a wire feed I can stick two pieces together....no matter how ugly! 8O

Harbor Freight has that 89.00 unit....and I have 3 friends who have them.
"Weld....let it cool....it will eventually get it done for the price."
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Old 12-11-2010, 08:53 AM   #7
katoranger   katoranger is offline
 
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The little units are fine, but like W&G said it can be hard to control voltage. This is especially important with light guage metal.

I have the hobart. It has about 6 settings. I can make it work, but infinite control would be nice.


My Dad will weld usind a oxy acetolene torch and a coat hanger. He has one of the little MIGs. It sits on the shelf because he has more control with the torch.

I only have the hobart so that is what I used.

Now cost for a home welder that runs on a a 110v circuit. $80-$600. Variable control will be at the mid/upper end.

Also to consider. Fluxcore vs shielding gas. Gas is better,but only works well inside the shop. Fluxcure is common on the low end units do to cost.

No bottles to fill or maintain.

I have the option of both, but all my welding is outside so I have been using fluxcore wire.

To sum it up. I grind alot. :wink:
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Old 12-11-2010, 09:47 AM   #8
BillR   BillR is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yellowxj
I took a great non certification course at my local adult technical center...check out continuting ed in your area.
My recommendation, also.
One of the county high schools in my area offers welding, along with other technical classes.
I plan to get out there and take it...been way to long since my high school shop class... :wink:
Bill R


 
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Old 12-12-2010, 11:40 AM   #9
Weldangrind   Weldangrind is offline
 
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One of our local tool shops also holds welding classes; maybe you can find that in your area.
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Old 12-12-2010, 11:54 AM   #10
BrianW   BrianW is offline
 
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I currently attend a local technical college. I am studying Historic Building Preservation and Restoration and part of my criteria is blacksmithing and stained glass windows. I am starting stained glass next semester, in which I will learn to spot weld. I anticipate blacksmithing, however, for I will be learning more advanced welding techniques. I'm just impatient.

My program, luckily, shares the same building as the welding program. Maybe I can pick up some extra credit hours there.


 
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Old 12-12-2010, 12:51 PM   #11
Weldangrind   Weldangrind is offline
 
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Blacksmithing would be so cool! I read a turn of the century (last century, that is) blacksmithing book that was fascinating. It talked all about the definition of pig iron, how steel is derived and how to forge weld.

I'm quite envious.
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Old 12-12-2010, 09:53 PM   #12
lego1970   lego1970 is offline
 
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I have a harbor freight 110/220 welder. Can't remember the amps. Stick welder (for lack of better terms).

What causes the welding rod to stick to the project? I have it set up for 220 and run it off my generator and I wanna say the rods are .30? with the arc shield (again lack of better terms) coating on it. It's sticks both on 110 or 220.


Like Katorangers Dad, I seem to do better with a acetelyne torch and coat hangers.


 
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Old 12-12-2010, 11:05 PM   #13
waynev   waynev is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lego1970
I have a harbor freight 110/220 welder. Can't remember the amps. Stick welder (for lack of better terms).

What causes the welding rod to stick to the project? I have it set up for 220 and run it off my generator and I wanna say the rods are .30? with the arc shield (again lack of better terms) coating on it. It's sticks both on 110 or 220.
Try using some 3/32" or 1/8" 6013 rod and when you start the arc try sliding it across the metal instead of pushing it into the metal til the arc starts, then it's up to you to keep the rod the proper distance away from the metal, i like to have one hand on the holder and one on the end of the rod when striking the arc, it gives you better control of the tip of the rod.


 
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Old 12-12-2010, 11:30 PM   #14
lego1970   lego1970 is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by waynev

Try using some 3/32" or 1/8" 6013 rod and when you start the arc try sliding it across the metal instead of pushing it into the metal til the arc starts, then it's up to you to keep the rod the proper distance away from the metal, i like to have one hand on the holder and one on the end of the rod when striking the arc, it gives you better control of the tip of the rod.
Ok, I'll look at the rods again and next time I try to weld, I'll focus more on the distance. Thanks.

BTW Waynev, (maybe I've asked you before) do you know of a bar called Carrie's in London? It was about a mile from a copper tubing plant.
I went there a few times when I used to pick up copper from there. People were always pretty nice to me.


 
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Old 12-12-2010, 11:36 PM   #15
waynev   waynev is offline
 
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Yep, it was across the road from the college i went to, ohhh the good ole days, was the tubing plant Wolverine tube?


 
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