X-Pro Paladin 300 Resource Guide

[Mumen Rider]

Engine seems to be a copy of the older KLX300R '96-07.


Engine oil capacity:



Drain bolt socket size: 17mm
Drain bolt thread pitch: M12x1.5
Drain bolt torque: 13.2 ft-lbs
Engine oil filler cap: M20x2.5





These pictures were taken after running it and sitting. I recommend you just use 1.3L when doing an oil change.














Spark plug gap: 0.6～0.7mm
Spark plug: Torch B8RC (it is a huge pain in the ass to remove, change out for iridium type) (cr8eix)

Engine idle speed: 1500±150r/min

Front Axle diameter: 22mm
Front axle spindle torque: 25.8 ft-lbs
Front axle stub bolt torque: 11.1 ft-lbs

Rear Axle diameter: 25
Rear wheel spindle torque: 59 ft-lbs
Wheel Spoke torque: 3.7 ft-lbs




Fork air bleeder screw: M5-.80




Chain: Standard 520 (No O-rings)

Front Sprocket: 14 tooth

Rear Sprocket: 51 tooth (Aluminum 7076)
JT Sprockets "JTA897" can be used as a replacement.







If your crankcase breather tube is kinked you need to shorten it. Located on the rear of the engine case, the tube leads up into the air box.

[Dusman]

I have checked out the specs on this bike and I’m thoroughly impressed. If the specs are even close, power-wise, it would be difficult to justify the purchase of a CRF300L/Rally or a KLX300. The assembly video on YouTube really showcased the quality of the hardware on this affordable machine.

[Mumen Rider]

I agree with you Dusman, I am still in the process of assembling mine but so far all of the hardware has been quality. The majority of bolts that I have seen so far are all marked "8.8". A bunch of water proof electrical connectors are used on the harness unlike other X-Pro models.

It's got an aluminum subframe that's removable and replaceable, that's something the KLX300 and the CRF300L don't have. Aluminum radiator guards, another thing the KLX300/CRF300L don't have. An aluminum brush guard from the factory. All those things I had to buy aftermarket when I owned a KLX250SF.


Front Axle Reminder: If you are assembling your Paladin 300 and the front axle refuses to go in completely the last inch or so, DON'T grab a hammer and start banging on it. Stick your finger into the spacer and line it up with the axle spacer that is inside of the front wheel, then seat your axle spacer completely in the wheel. The axle will slide in with no problem after that.


The assembly video doesn't show that, they just expect you to know and if this is your first time you probably won't.

[Mumen Rider]

You'll need to disconnect some wiring to pull the spark plug boot and cap off. Let the slack out of the coil wire(right hand side) so you can move it around in order to pull the boot off from the left hand side. It is not physically possible to pull it from the right hand side.


The spark plug wire is glued into the spark plug cap(even though it's a screw on type). If you cut the coil wire like I did to make it easier, you'll be spending even more time pulling the wire out of the boot terminal.



You'll need a 16mm socket to remove the spark plug.

[LowBrewTow]

Originally Posted by Mumen Rider

Front Axle Reminder: If you are assembling your Paladin 300 and the front axle refuses to go in completely the last inch or so, DON'T grab a hammer and start banging on it. Stick your finger into the spacer and line it up with the axle spacer that is inside of the front wheel, then seat your axle spacer completely in the wheel. The axle will slide in with no problem after that.


The assembly video doesn't show that, they just expect you to know and if this is your first time you probably won't.

Wish I knew that before I did exactly what you said. Lol.

[LowBrewTow]

My Paladin has been consistently idling at 2k. What do you think could be causing this?

[LowBrewTow]

And it just turned itself off while I had it warming up in the garage. Somethings up with it.

[Mumen Rider]

Originally Posted by LowBrewTow

Wish I knew that before I did exactly what you said. Lol.

It happens, I am sure you won't be the last person. If the inner spacer wasn't so loose and actually seated against the bearing I don't think it would be so difficult.

Originally Posted by LowBrewTow

My Paladin has been consistently idling at 2k. What do you think could be causing this?

I don't know too much about the EFI system on these bikes yet but I have been doing a lot of research and reading the last couple of days. 2k idle RPM seems to be normal, I am basing this off of the 2022+ GPX bikes that use the same EFI system.

Originally Posted by LowBrewTow

And it just turned itself off while I had it warming up in the garage. Somethings up with it.

Check all of your connections, the green wire on the bottom of my ignition coil was loose. You would have to remove the tank to access that.



Make sure your voltage regulator isn't getting too hot, anything over 140f is no-go. It's located on the left hand radiator that has the overflow bottle mounted to it.

[Mumen Rider]

There is not enough room under the seat to mount a Tusk compact power harness. Just enough room to mount an SAE plug to check the battery without having to take the seat off.

[Thumper]

I installed a Battery Tender lead (fused). I can check voltage there. The connector looks identical, though not sure about polarity. I routed it through the gap over the air filter panel.

[Mumen Rider]

I finally got mine out on the road for a quick spin around town, my first impression is holy fuck what a calf cooker. The slip joint HAS to be leaking, my calf is pretty far from the exhaust and it's just getting COOKED anytime I have to stop.



I hit a top speed of 75mph indicated, I am sure that's what most of you want to know or care about for some reason. The 51 tooth rear sprocket means you can start out in second gear no problem. The first thing I will be changing out is the rear sprocket for less teeth followed by the OE tires. If you are going to use this as a dual sport the tires have got to go, I almost ate shit taking my first left on level pavement. I can see lug wear on the rear after ~5 miles on pavement.


The ECU tuning is not to my liking, not to say it's bad but after tuning two other bikes in the last month with a wideband I can really tell that it is lacking(flat) compared to the carbureted Templar and BMS 250(4 valve swapped). The exhaust holds a lot of heat compared to the thinner walled(1.5mm) Templar X.



Clutch engagement is all at the beginning of the lever, to be expected with a cable clutch. No complaints about it, feels like a solid unit. Neutral is very easy to find but then again it's a Kawasaki clone and I have found they have the best neutral engagement.



The fuel tank holds over 2 gallons, after my first tank I will be able get an accurate reading. The brakes are fine, no complaints(I did bleed them). If your rear brake drags excessively you need to adjust your rear wheel alignment when tensioning your chain. The suspension is stiff, I have all the settings to the middle right now and I weigh ~175-180lbs with my gear on. I am 5'10" which means I am on the tips of my feet with both legs down. The OE mirrors stayed in place even at a top speed of 75mph.


FYI: transmission gear ratios are exactly the same as the KLX300(except for 6th).

[Thumper]

The exhaust tip is removable. It relieves the system and makes the exhaust note more thumpy, less cracky on acceleration. NICE sound









Note... A Fisch Moto Spark arrestor will fit in the open throat.

[Mumen Rider]

Changed out my rear sprocket for something better on the street where most of my riding will happen. The rear axle diameter is 25mm. (F22/R25mm KTM setup)



You will need a 32mm socket to remove the rear axle bolt, Torx T45 bit to remove the sprocket bolts and a 12mm socket to hold the nut on the back of those bolts.


Rear Axle bolt torque: 58-60 lb-ft
Sprocket bolts: 25 lb-ft (use thread locker!)


JT Sprockets "JTA897" was used as a replacement.



You will need a chain breaker to shorten the OE chain if you plan on using that.




CHECK YOUR REAR WHEEL BEARINGS TO MAKE SURE THEY SPIN. The bearings on my rear wheel are pressed in so tight they are jammed against the internal wheel spacer. They are bound up good, removing the seals DID NOT make a difference. The rear wheel bearings are marked "6005RS" replacements will probably be marked 6005-2RS. Just buy a kit for a 2020 KTM excf 350 if you don't want to get technical.






"S&F" branded wheel bearing. SF Oilless Bearing Group Co., LTD. also known as ZOB



Rear wheel bearing without the shield in place.

[Weresquatch]

Oh, now THAT is a good idea....I just bought a 4 bank battery tender and have mounted the connectors to all my batteries I want to keep charged. I just need to buy some extensions so I can charge all four bikes where they sit at once. I'll add one of those to my amazon cart. Thanks.

[Mumen Rider]

42T rear sprocket installed, the chain had to be cut.





KTM plastic fork protectors.





I painted the skid plate with self etching primer and then hit it with "Rust-Oleum Platinum Truck Bed Coating Spray Paint". It has a really long cure time and it sprays on thick but the end result looks great.


I have a bunch more accessories coming from Aliexpress. KKE even sells KTM supermoto wheels with a crush drive that will bolt up. You can run a WIDE range of OE KTM wheels but you'll need to run your spacers and bearings for proper fitment.