![]() |
#1 |
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Langley, BC
Posts: 48
|
spacer tube rear axle gio mini beast
What's the deal with these things? The longer spacer tube keeps rattling loose after a few rides. I've added a few washers already but still getting the same rattling problem. Has anyone found a modification that works?
__________________
____________________________________ "How often have I said to you that when you have eliminated the impossible, whatever remains, however improbable, must be the truth?" |
![]() |
![]() |
#2 | |
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Surrey, B.C., Canada
Posts: 2,185
|
Re: spacer tube rear axle gio mini beast
Quote:
I'm anal about checking the wheel nut tension as well. It never seems to be loose, yet the tube rattles.. very very odd. |
|
![]() |
![]() |
#3 |
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Sardis, BC, Canada
Posts: 25,977
|
If they're anything like the tubes on our bigger quads, they're only for decoration. The hub that the wheel mounts to is splined on our quads, meaning that's what determines how far the wheel can slide on the axle.
I dumped 'em.
__________________
Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer |
![]() |
![]() |
#4 | |
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Langley, BC
Posts: 48
|
Quote:
I'm assuming they don't do anything for the rear sprocket either? Obviously it's splined as well but I'm guessing as long as the chain tension is there it won't slide off.
__________________
____________________________________ "How often have I said to you that when you have eliminated the impossible, whatever remains, however improbable, must be the truth?" |
|
![]() |
![]() |
#5 |
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Sardis, BC, Canada
Posts: 25,977
|
Again, I'm referring to bigger quads, like our beast and Monster, both from Gio.
The sprocket is bolted to a splined hub that mates with a stepped section of the axle. The hub cannot move once the axle is installed and adjusted. Make sense? Chain tension has no effect.
__________________
Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer |
![]() |
![]() |
#6 |
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Langley, BC
Posts: 48
|
Ahhh I get it, thanks. Now that I've looked at it again it doesn't really serve a purpose other than cosmetic. Looking at photos of the rear axle the gio mini beast is same set up, just a smaller version.
__________________
____________________________________ "How often have I said to you that when you have eliminated the impossible, whatever remains, however improbable, must be the truth?" |
![]() |
![]() |
#7 |
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Surrey, B.C., Canada
Posts: 2,185
|
I think the rear tube is there to stop the wheel in the proper spot for tightening and also provide it something to press into.
There is no other 'flange' or surface area to hold the wheel from going further towards the inside of the quad. |
![]() |
![]() |
#8 | |
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Langley, BC
Posts: 48
|
Quote:
__________________
____________________________________ "How often have I said to you that when you have eliminated the impossible, whatever remains, however improbable, must be the truth?" |
|
![]() |
![]() |
#9 | |
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Sardis, BC, Canada
Posts: 25,977
|
Quote:
Again, referencing larger quads, the wheel mounting flange is retained by a large nut and cotter pin. If I remove the nut, I can slide the flange off of the axle, revealing a step on the axle. That step prevents the wheel mounting flange from sliding beyond a certain point. In our case, the tension of the nut takes up slop in the splines, removing any wobble in the wheel. In your case, maybe the tube is all that stops the flange, but that sounds pretty cheezy.
__________________
Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer |
|
![]() |
![]() |
#10 | ||
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Surrey, B.C., Canada
Posts: 2,185
|
Quote:
![]() If I removed the tube, the wheel hub would slide either right off, or right up to the end of the spline. If there was a lip, I'm sure the pressure from any tightening of the wheel nut would just damage the end of the spline or pop it right off. I am confused as to the rattle as well. I always check the nut tension, and it never seems to move. The only thing I can think of is perhaps the force of the wheel spinning, and the quad turning, creates a 'pull' effect away from the tube, which puts the pressure onto the wheel nut side, effectively loosening the tube enough to make it rattle. We've had the discussion in other threads about tourque specs. If there was a way to put perhaps, 45-50lbs torque or stretch on the wheel nut, this may perhaps alleviate the problem.. However, I don't think the pin hole would line up, and I think the threads would let loose on the spindle. If you have pictures of your setup, I'd be interested to see the differences and how you've mounted your wheels. |
||
![]() |
![]() |
#11 |
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Surrey, B.C., Canada
Posts: 2,185
|
I should also add on my most recent mini beast assembly, the brake rotor was moved towards the wheel more than it should have been. I pushed it back by hand on the spline, so I think the tube is actually acting to keep the brake rotor in place as well.
|
![]() |
![]() |
#12 |
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Sardis, BC, Canada
Posts: 25,977
|
I've never seen anything quite like that. I can see where there is no step after the rotor spline, so it makes sense that it would walk without the tube spacer. If you have another photo with the tube removed, we'd be able to see where the wheel mounting flange splines end, but I presume that there's no step there either. The only solution I can come up with is a longer tube. You can also place washers behind the castle nut to help line the slots up with the spindle hole. You would need the brakes to be locked on and have weight on the seat in order to properly tighten the nut.
__________________
Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer |
![]() |
![]() |
#13 | |
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Surrey, B.C., Canada
Posts: 2,185
|
Quote:
In theory, this wheel nut should take some amount of torque, as it's a 1/2 or 12mm inch thread, with a 22mm nut head... so 55-60lb ft of torque shouldn't be an issue.. HOWEVER.. I'd be scared to do that in fear of ripping the threads off the axl, because then you have a whole heck of a lot more trouble than a rattle. |
|
![]() |
![]() |
#14 |
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Sardis, BC, Canada
Posts: 25,977
|
That amount of torque is required on a Beast, but then again, you're tightening up against a step, not a tube.
__________________
Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer |
![]() |
![]() |
#15 |
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Surrey, B.C., Canada
Posts: 2,185
|
Is the wheel nut and axel thread the same size? 22mm nut?
|
![]() |
|
![]() |
![]() |
|
|