Hawk chain

Swollbraham · 05-09-2016, 12:39 AM

I was not given a owners manual, also I can not find it on the Internet. Im replacing my chain and sprockets I went from factory 15-50 to 17-45, but my chain seems loose. Does anyone know the factory measurement and from where to take the measurement?

pcspecialist · 05-09-2016, 03:26 AM

MotoCheez used this on his Hawk: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004ZG7X14

Entropy · 05-09-2016, 03:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pcspecialist

MotoCheez used this on his Hawk: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004ZG7X14

My question is will that chain work on a 229cc bike when it's only rated up to a 125cc bike?

Adjuster · 05-09-2016, 06:59 AM

That 125cc rating has to be some sort of typo/error.

/

SeerAtlas · 05-09-2016, 08:57 AM

not really, the 428 is not a very big chain. get a quality one. *most hi pro 250's use the larger 520.

wilserchinarider · 05-09-2016, 09:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Swollbraham

I was not given a owners manual, also I can not find it on the Internet. Im replacing my chain and sprockets I went from factory 15-50 to 17-45, but my chain seems loose. Does anyone know the factory measurement and from where to take the measurement?

This article may help you.
http://www.cycleworld.com/2015/08/28...torcycle-chain

You want the chain reasonably snug but not too tight, a couple inches, say 1.5 - 2" freeplay up and down is what I would do...

Curious, why are you replacing the chain? Removing a link is not that difficult is your stock chain is too long with the new sprockets.
http://tkmotorcyclediaries.blogspot....ster-link.html

Mudflap · 05-09-2016, 10:35 AM

There are 125cc motorcycles that produce over 40 horsepower. A good quality chain like the 428 size RK or DID will handle the Hawk's massive horsepower, no problem.

Swollbraham · 05-09-2016, 12:22 PM

Yeah I planned on roughly 2inches, just wish I could track down the OM thanks guys!

Swollbraham · 05-09-2016, 12:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wilserchinarider

This article may help you.
http://www.cycleworld.com/2015/08/28...torcycle-chain

You want the chain reasonably snug but not too tight, a couple inches, say 1.5 - 2" freeplay up and down is what I would do...

Curious, why are you replacing the chain? Removing a link is not that difficult is your stock chain is too long with the new sprockets.
http://tkmotorcyclediaries.blogspot....ster-link.html

I don't think the factory chain is very good quality kinda like the oil and speedometer. After changing sprockets I noticed the chain had to much play and with only 70 miles on the bike it scared me but I took a few links out and went for a test drive, I think the back left slider was a tad loose it caught the chain and snapped it. And I was stranded a few miles away from home. So I decided just to replace it with a D.l.D chain. They have never failed on me in the past. Also I'm just a litte bias with those chains.

Torgo · 05-09-2016, 07:04 PM

For what it's worth, from the RPS Owner's Manual, page 42:

4. Turn both adjusting nuts the same amount of turns until you have reached the correct slack. To tighten the chain, turn the adjusting nuts clockwise. To loosen the chain (provide slack) turn the adjusting nuts counter-clockwise. Adjust the slack in between the drive sprocket and the rear wheel sprocket. Move the bike forward, stop and park it on the side stand. Recheck the slack, it should allow vertical movement by hand: 9/16 inch (15-30mm)

From my own experience, I now believe this. I didn't think this was correct from my ancient dirt bike experience and everything else I read. However, it also demonstrated to give the owner's manual the benefit of the doubt over the internet. When I did my first adjustment - I set a little extra slack, 1-2" because that just seemed more logical. I quickly found out that wasn't a good choice. Chain jumped, cracked my front sprocket cover (17t front, so no space), and carved up the rear axle area a bit. Luckily it didn't break, and it's been holding up good enough after getting readjusted to spec.

I do think you'll want to err on the side of tightness if you stay with the stock chain.

They have a couple of pages dedicated to maintaining the chain in the owner's manual. Here's a link if you didn't get a paper one included:

http://therps.net/User%20Manual/Hawk...s%20Manual.pdf

Swollbraham · 05-09-2016, 10:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Torgo

For what it's worth, from the RPS Owner's Manual, page 42:

4. Turn both adjusting nuts the same amount of turns until you have reached the correct slack. To tighten the chain, turn the adjusting nuts clockwise. To loosen the chain (provide slack) turn the adjusting nuts counter-clockwise. Adjust the slack in between the drive sprocket and the rear wheel sprocket. Move the bike forward, stop and park it on the side stand. Recheck the slack, it should allow vertical movement by hand: 9/16 inch (15-30mm)

From my own experience, I now believe this. I didn't think this was correct from my ancient dirt bike experience and everything else I read. However, it also demonstrated to give the owner's manual the benefit of the doubt over the internet. When I did my first adjustment - I set a little extra slack, 1-2" because that just seemed more logical. I quickly found out that wasn't a good choice. Chain jumped, cracked my front sprocket cover (17t front, so no space), and carved up the rear axle area a bit. Luckily it didn't break, and it's been holding up good enough after getting readjusted to spec.

I do think you'll want to err on the side of tightness if you stay with the stock chain.

They have a couple of pages dedicated to maintaining the chain in the owner's manual. Here's a link if you didn't get a paper one included:

http://therps.net/User%20Manual/Hawk...s%20Manual.pdf

Thank you for tracking that down. Yes I always error on the side of caution with my chains. In my experience a little to tight is better than loose. I'll deal with premature wear if any on my chain and sprockets. Then having a chain slip going 40 plus mph and it tearing up the bike.

Also I was already going to change the chain. Once I got the bike I could tell the chain was cheap. Which is expected. There is going to be cheap factory parts for any new bike under 3 grand

Kdburtch · 05-11-2016, 02:11 PM

Are there any cheaper but still good chain options that you have used?

Swollbraham · 05-11-2016, 02:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kdburtch

Are there any cheaper but still good chain options that you have used?

I've always used D.I.D chains. Just the standard goes for about 40bucks. Never had any problems. For the hawk I used a 428 130 D.I.D standard I put 30 miles on since seems to be working great. I'll update after a 100+ Miles.

Azhule · 05-11-2016, 02:26 PM

I have been using UniBear for several years now, and I just ordered one for the Mrs. Bashan WILL200 a week or so back, was only $17 or so with 'prime shipping' for a 136 link 428 X-Ring chain from UniBear/Amazon

... I had to cut several links off to fit our bike but I didn't feel like counting the links on my old chain and our book was no help in how many links on the stock chain

pcspecialist · 05-11-2016, 03:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Azhule

I have been using UniBear for several years now, and I just ordered one for the Mrs. Bashan WILL200 a week or so back, was only $17 or so with 'prime shipping' for a 136 link 428 X-Ring chain from UniBear/Amazon

... I had to cut several links off to fit our bike but I didn't feel like counting the links on my old chain and our book was no help in how many links on the stock chain

I'm not finding the 428 X-Ring in any length.

05-09-2016, 12:39 AM	#1
Swollbraham Join Date: Apr 2016 Location: North Utah Posts: 37	Hawk chain I was not given a owners manual, also I can not find it on the Internet. Im replacing my chain and sprockets I went from factory 15-50 to 17-45, but my chain seems loose. Does anyone know the factory measurement and from where to take the measurement?
	0

05-09-2016, 08:57 AM	#5
SeerAtlas Join Date: Apr 2009 Posts: 770	not really, the 428 is not a very big chain. get a quality one. *most hi pro 250's use the larger 520. __________________ Seer's First LAW-"FLY THE PLANE!", fail that, and nothing else matters. 12th Law- Consider what marvels you might do if only you had tomorrow to live over again. Third Law-When someone tells you some thing "Can't Be Done", what they're really saying is They can't do it!!14th Law-Just because something "IS", doesn't necessarily mean it SHOULD be.. Eighth Law-The only true personal security is anonymity.Ninth Law-Humans tend to learn very little when speaking.10th Law-Some lives ARE worth taking
	0

05-11-2016, 02:26 PM	#14
Azhule Join Date: Dec 2015 Location: CO Posts: 1,525	I have been using UniBear for several years now, and I just ordered one for the Mrs. Bashan WILL200 a week or so back, was only $17 or so with 'prime shipping' for a 136 link 428 X-Ring chain from UniBear/Amazon ... I had to cut several links off to fit our bike but I didn't feel like counting the links on my old chain and our book was no help in how many links on the stock chain __________________ "Think as you like... but this self proclaimed Professor is always right" - Buckshot "You never know what someone is hiding beneath their smile..." - NinjaTom - R.I.P.
	1

05-09-2016, 03:26 AM	#2
pcspecialist Join Date: May 2016 Posts: 583	MotoCheez used this on his Hawk: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004ZG7X14
	0

05-09-2016, 06:59 AM	#4
Adjuster Join Date: Dec 2014 Location: Deerfield Beach FL Posts: 1,410	That 125cc rating has to be some sort of typo/error. /
	0

05-09-2016, 10:35 AM	#7
Mudflap Join Date: Sep 2014 Posts: 1,930	There are 125cc motorcycles that produce over 40 horsepower. A good quality chain like the 428 size RK or DID will handle the Hawk's massive horsepower, no problem.
	0

05-09-2016, 12:22 PM	#8
Swollbraham Join Date: Apr 2016 Location: North Utah Posts: 37	Yeah I planned on roughly 2inches, just wish I could track down the OM thanks guys!
	0

05-09-2016, 07:04 PM	#10
Torgo Join Date: Oct 2015 Location: Texas Posts: 93	For what it's worth, from the RPS Owner's Manual, page 42: 4. Turn both adjusting nuts the same amount of turns until you have reached the correct slack. To tighten the chain, turn the adjusting nuts clockwise. To loosen the chain (provide slack) turn the adjusting nuts counter-clockwise. Adjust the slack in between the drive sprocket and the rear wheel sprocket. Move the bike forward, stop and park it on the side stand. Recheck the slack, it should allow vertical movement by hand: 9/16 inch (15-30mm) From my own experience, I now believe this. I didn't think this was correct from my ancient dirt bike experience and everything else I read. However, it also demonstrated to give the owner's manual the benefit of the doubt over the internet. When I did my first adjustment - I set a little extra slack, 1-2" because that just seemed more logical. I quickly found out that wasn't a good choice. Chain jumped, cracked my front sprocket cover (17t front, so no space), and carved up the rear axle area a bit. Luckily it didn't break, and it's been holding up good enough after getting readjusted to spec. I do think you'll want to err on the side of tightness if you stay with the stock chain. They have a couple of pages dedicated to maintaining the chain in the owner's manual. Here's a link if you didn't get a paper one included: http://therps.net/User%20Manual/Hawk...s%20Manual.pdf
	0

05-11-2016, 02:11 PM	#12
Kdburtch Join Date: May 2016 Location: Kansas Posts: 31	Are there any cheaper but still good chain options that you have used?
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