Newbie asking for help with my new Hawk250

[path1212]

Hello fellow riders,
I recently bought the Hawk 250 and just got done assembling it and taking it for its first spin. It does not want to idle on its own and the engine with just cut off with sitting still. When get it going it feels a bit bogged down and sputters a bit. Needless to say something is off. I read a lot people recommend buying a new carburetor right away. Can someone give me a link to a good carburetor to on Amazon? Also could the engine be acting funny because I haven’t done the valve adjustment that I was recommended?? I attached some pics of her. She looks sharp just need to figure out what’s going on with the engine.

[Megadan]

Yes, adjust the valves. If anybody tells you to wait or don't bother, ignore them, they are idiots.

You don't NEED to buy a new carburetor. The stock unit is capable of making the bike run adequately. The catch is that you need to unseal it by slotting the 3 security screws that hold the bowl on, and removing the cap over the idle mixture screw. Once that is done you can up the main jet, adjust the idle mixture, and shim the needle if needed and it will run very well.

If you don't want to deal with that and just want to have an easy to setup and adjust carburetor, then the most recommended stock like replacement is a VM26 clone.

This is the most common one used because it accepts mikuni jets. https://www.amazon.com/Mikuni-Carbur...8826966&sr=8-5

As far as jets. I prefer genuine or quality OEM equivalent jets from jetsrus.com

Main jets are N100.604. At a bare minimum you will want a 105 and 110 main jet, if you plan to do an aftermarket exhaust, a 115: https://www.jetsrus.com/a_jets_by_ca...arge_round.htm

Pilot Jet has 2 styles that can work. N224.103 or VM28/486
From what I gather these carbs come with an N224.103, but the best thing you can do is measure the tip of the one in the carb. The only difference between the two pilot jets is the tip diameter on the N224 jet is .5mm larger. At a minimum you will want a 25 pilot jet. That is almost a perfect size for most stock bikes at most altitudes below 5000ft. With an exhaust and/or at sea level the 27.5 tends to work the best.
https://www.jetsrus.com/a_jets_by_ca...-103_pilot.htm
or
https://www.jetsrus.com/a_jets_by_ca...-486_pilot.htm


Also worth taking the time to read would be the resource and info guide linked in my signature.

[franque]

Also, if you've run the engine, let it cool off before adjusting the valves, otherwise they'll end up being adjusted too loose due to thermal expansion.

[path1212]

Great, thanks for the feedback

[Piglife]

I am also a new Hawk owner (Magician also) not knowing what was needed I asked here in the forum how to prepare and what setup mods would be necessary. I can verify that I did exactly what Megadan and JerryHawk both recommended and could not be more happy. I now have about 125 miles on each bike and have had literally no problems, I credit that to their advice. What I did was:
Valve lash adjustment
Mikuni clone carb (VM 26-30mm)
Jetting for my altitude (+6000’)
New chain
Lubed everything with marine grease
Blue locktite on all bolts
Tightened up spokes
DID NOT RUSH assembly
Shell Rotella T4 oil (changed immediately before running and again at 100 miles-next one will be at 500 after break in when I will jump to the T6 synthetic)

[Oldenslow]

Just wondering -- have you adjusted the idle? And, are you sure you're turning off the choke? These sound like problems that can possibly be addressed with simple adjustments not requiring the replacement of anything.

[JerryHawk250]

Originally Posted by Piglife

I am also a new Hawk owner (Magician also) not knowing what was needed I asked here in the forum how to prepare and what setup mods would be necessary. I can verify that I did exactly what Megadan and JerryHawk both recommended and could not be more happy. I now have about 125 miles on each bike and have had literally no problems, I credit that to their advice. What I did was:
Valve lash adjustment
Mikuni clone carb (VM 26-30mm)
Jetting for my altitude (+6000’)
New chain
Lubed everything with marine grease
Blue locktite on all bolts
Tightened up spokes
DID NOT RUSH assembly
Shell Rotella T4 oil (changed immediately before running and again at 100 miles-next one will be at 500 after break in when I will jump to the T6 synthetic)

I like it when people pay attention and do there homework.

[Piglife]

On the Hawk choke is up, half choke middle, no choke down. So far, on cold mornings I will need choke to get started but after ~30 seconds of idling I can turn choke off and have no problems. On warmer mornings no choke is necessary. Yes, I have adjusted the idle. On the stock carb that's about all you can adjust. Once you replace the carb then you can re-jet and adjust airflow as needed.
There are videos out there showing how to drill out the rivets in the stock carb to access for tuning but I chose to just replace the carburetor instead; so I can't personally speak about whether or not that is successful.

[JerryHawk250]

I'm not sure what is so difficult about rejecting and tuning the stock PZ30 carb. I've done several. Takes less than 5 minutes to slot three so called tapper proof screws and remove the plug covering the idle mixture screw. Yes the PZ30 has an odd ball Pilot jet but the 40 pilot jet doesn't need to be replaced. For a stock engine with only exhaust and intake mods it's more than adequate.

[China Rider 27]

Originally Posted by JerryHawk250

I'm not sure what is so difficult about rejecting and tuning the stock PZ30 carb. I've done several. Takes less than 5 minutes to slot three so called tapper proof screws and remove the plug covering the idle mixture screw. Yes the PZ30 has an odd ball Pilot jet but the 40 pilot jet doesn't need to be replaced. For a stock engine with only exhaust and intake mods it's more than adequate.

Well said, I agree. Quit wasting money on new carburetors that provide no performance improvement and tune the one that comes with the bike I say unless it has proven it cannot be tuned.

[Megadan]

Originally Posted by China Rider 27

Well said, I agree. Quit wasting money on new carburetors that provide no performance improvement and tune the one that comes with the bike I say unless it has proven it cannot be tuned.

Unless you are simply lazy, or want the added tunability of the other carbs to go full ham on the tuning like me (Both lazy and full ham).

[China Rider 27]

Originally Posted by Megadan

Unless you are simply lazy, or want the added tunability of the other carbs to go full ham on the tuning like me (Both lazy and full ham).

LOL. Lazy? No one would associate that word with you! Midwestern hard work ethic get outa here. Too each his own, and to what makes them happy. I have spent way more money on carburetors than I should have but to learn and experience. At least spend your money on performance improvement I say!

[Megadan]

Originally Posted by China Rider 27

LOL. Lazy? No one would associate that word with you! Midwestern hard work ethic get outa here. Too each his own, and to what makes them happy. I have spent way more money on carburetors than I should have but to learn and experience. At least spend your money on performance improvement I say!

Oh, I have my own version of lazy lol.

I agree though. Now, if they would make a vm26 clone with the accel pump - aka pz30b with mikuni jetting, that would be the best all around upgrade.