X-Pro Templar 250cc

Truepkera · 08-18-2024, 03:36 PM

Hi everyone. I purchased a new dirt bike that got delivered and it is a Templar 250 cc dirt bike base model that isn’t fuel injected and had the carb on it. I finally got it fully built and started it up last night and it sounded good and was holding idle nicely. It was late so I turned it off and went back inside. I came out to the garage today to take it for a ride and now it won’t start. When holding the electric start without the throttle it just chugs and holding the throttle it seems like it’s trying to start harder but it’s a no go. If I push the clutch in and set it in 1st gear the bike starts to drive but I figured that doesn’t mean anything if it won’t fully turn over. I filled the gas tank so I know it isn’t that but I have no idea what else to check. There is a knob on the side that has on/off for fuel which I have it set to on. Can someone please help me? The battery has 3 bars so maybe it needs to be fully charged for the electric start to work? Please someone help and offer suggestions as I am going crazy. I am switching out the shipping oil today.

Thumper · 08-18-2024, 03:55 PM

There is a little lever over the left brake. This is the choke. You havne't rejet, so it is lean to begin with! Definitely will need a choke to start.

-the kill switch is easy to forget
-petcock has 3 positions-down or up takes fuel from the right or left lobe (serves as ~ 5 10 mile reserve). -horizontal shuts off fuel.

You'll need to rejet to get more fuel into it. Bump from 40 to 42 or 45 on the pilot, and from 120 to 125 on the main jet. And shim the needle.
Also drill the cover off the airscrew access. This is behind the slide tower on the right. It is a shiny aluminum plug. Try 1.5 turns out at first. Closing this screw (clockwise) make it more rich.

https://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=32177

post #4 has links to the carb information.

GypsyR · 08-18-2024, 04:54 PM

Note that "rejetting" is just tuning it to make it run better or to suit you better. Don't worry about that until after you get it to where it starts and runs for you and you get some riding in.

Truepkera · 08-18-2024, 05:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GypsyR

Note that "rejetting" is just tuning it to make it run better or to suit you better. Don't worry about that until after you get it to where it starts and runs for you and you get some riding in.

That’s what I was just looking into doing and figuring out what needs to be done lol. I have no idea what to try first besides I’m supposed to hold the choke while trying to start it? Or clench it a few times?

Thumper · 08-18-2024, 05:36 PM

If you are below 2500 foot elevation, rejetting WILL be necessary. Some folks at 5000-6000 feet don't need to do anything!

Running lean causes overheating and even detonation. And of course, hard starting, coughing and sputtering, and lots of back firing!!!

EPA wants all vehicles to be running as lean as possible, so they force manufacturers to make carburetor access difficult. So the float bowl screws have breakaway heads with no slot or philips head, and the airscrew access is capped.

It is not difficult to get into the carb, and fortunately the jets in there are standard jets. As I said, this is documented in the Templar Resource guide.

Truepkera · 08-18-2024, 06:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Thumper

If you are below 2500 foot elevation, rejetting WILL be necessary. Some folks at 5000-6000 feet don't need to do anything!

Running lean causes overheating and even detonation. And of course, hard starting, coughing and sputtering, and lots of back firing!!!

EPA wants all vehicles to be running as lean as possible, so they force manufacturers to make carburetor access difficult. So the float bowl screws have breakaway heads with no slot or philips head, and the airscrew access is capped.

It is not difficult to get into the carb, and fortunately the jets in there are standard jets. As I said, this is documented in the Templar Resource guide.

Ngl with my zero experience beginner on working on stuff like this I’m kind of intimidated lol.

Aussie_in_MO · 08-18-2024, 07:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Truepkera

That’s what I was just looking into doing and figuring out what needs to be done lol. I have no idea what to try first besides I’m supposed to hold the choke while trying to start it? Or clench it a few times?

Pull and hold the choke while, don't mess with the throttle when starting.
It should fire up and idle with zero throttle input when you're on the choke. It's a bit of a balancing act to find the right choke amount, too much and it won't want to stay idling, too little and it won't run.

Thumper · 08-18-2024, 08:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Truepkera

Ngl with my zero experience beginner on working on stuff like this I’m kind of intimidated lol.

Sorry! You will get to carb tuning later...

Yes, do hold the choke lever while starting, but with zero or 1/8th throttle twist.

Tease the choke when it bogs or hold it partially pulled if it starts, hold the throttle steady at 1/8th or so. It will catch.

It will run without the choke soon, but may not idle well, even after it gets to running temp.

-You can increase the idle speed by turning the brass knurled knob on the lower right side of the slide tower on the carb. Tightening it will increase the idle.
There are excellent large knobs available to replace that idle adjust screw (easier to turn).

By now, I am sure you have gotten it started!

GypsyR · 08-19-2024, 11:06 AM

Mine came shipped lean. That meant (for me) if the engine was cold it WOULD NOT start without me holding the choke lever. And also holding the choke at least partially until the engine warned up a bit. After the engine had warned the choke didn't need to be touched.

Now that I've redone the jets and carburetors and all it works a lot better. First thing cold in the morning I give it choke but am able to let off and it will idle by itself. A lot better when I am in a hurry to go to work where I used to have to baby it with some choke one before I could actually leave. Nowadays after work in the hot afternoon I don't need choke at all.

We have a riding lawnmower that will never ever start cold without the choke on. Plus, if you let it sit even 20 minutes after mowing, even when the engine is pretty darn warm to the touch, you still have to choke it before will start. Point being that carbureted setups have "personalities". You have to figure out what they like. We're spoiled by fuel injected vehicles that basically crank up like flicking on a light switch these days. I'm old enough that I grew up with about everything having a carburetor so I take it for granted I have to learn what any engine "likes". People who grew up with EFI machines have to wrap their heads around this a little bit.

Truepkera · 08-19-2024, 08:59 PM

Hi guys. Still having issues with the bike not wanting to start. The battery is on 2 bars would that matter? I’ve taken a quick video of sound. It’s short video but you should be able to hear 3 different sounds. First with just the brake and the electric start. Next with the choke and electric start. And finally brake choke and throttle. Any idea why it’s not starting? It’s driving me nuts and I just want to ride it. It started
2 nights ago and nothing now.

https://youtube.com/shorts/CWGElf5Mq...Wi-UHIKMOPf2WX

Thumper · 08-19-2024, 09:55 PM

I think it is not on/firing. The different sounds are just response to carb condition (throttle).

There is a kill switch on the right instrument cluster. Toggles forward (off) and back (on). If the lights are on (dash), the kill switch still needs to be on (closer red bar-press).

Oh, your rear brake should satisfy the starter safety lockout. It is easier than pulling the front brake while managing the throttle and starter button.

Truepkera · 08-19-2024, 10:01 PM

Does the battery effect the electric start with 2-3 bars? Or it will start with only that?

Thumper · 08-19-2024, 10:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Truepkera

Does the battery effect the electric start with 2-3 bars? Or it will start with only that?

You may have drained the battery, but I think your kill switch (right controls) is in the off position.

-Key turned on
-Kill switch toggled towards you (on)
-Press the brake (right foot)
-Pull the little choke lever
-press the starter button with 0- 1/8 twist

I really don't think your kill switch is in the on position

Truepkera · 08-19-2024, 10:22 PM

Wow I’m a total noob. That worked. So for all the questions. Thank you so much! Lmfao!

Crossbar · 08-20-2024, 10:37 PM

I got a laugh too reading this. The kill switch thing happens to me and maybe others. I never use it, I always use the key switch to kill the engine. I let a friend ride mine last week and for a while was worried as hell why I couldn't get it started after she left. I spent 10 minutes messing with choke, checking the fuel petcock and then finally thought of the kill switch she had used to cut it off. Rolled eyes at myself, offed the kill switch and it fired right up. I think she did on purpose...

08-18-2024, 03:36 PM	#1
Truepkera Join Date: Aug 2024 Posts: 6	X-Pro Templar 250cc Hi everyone. I purchased a new dirt bike that got delivered and it is a Templar 250 cc dirt bike base model that isn’t fuel injected and had the carb on it. I finally got it fully built and started it up last night and it sounded good and was holding idle nicely. It was late so I turned it off and went back inside. I came out to the garage today to take it for a ride and now it won’t start. When holding the electric start without the throttle it just chugs and holding the throttle it seems like it’s trying to start harder but it’s a no go. If I push the clutch in and set it in 1st gear the bike starts to drive but I figured that doesn’t mean anything if it won’t fully turn over. I filled the gas tank so I know it isn’t that but I have no idea what else to check. There is a knob on the side that has on/off for fuel which I have it set to on. Can someone please help me? The battery has 3 bars so maybe it needs to be fully charged for the electric start to work? Please someone help and offer suggestions as I am going crazy. I am switching out the shipping oil today.
	0

08-18-2024, 03:55 PM	#2
Thumper Join Date: Feb 2021 Location: Kansas City Posts: 2,753	There is a little lever over the left brake. This is the choke. You havne't rejet, so it is lean to begin with! Definitely will need a choke to start. -the kill switch is easy to forget -petcock has 3 positions-down or up takes fuel from the right or left lobe (serves as ~ 5 10 mile reserve). -horizontal shuts off fuel. You'll need to rejet to get more fuel into it. Bump from 40 to 42 or 45 on the pilot, and from 120 to 125 on the main jet. And shim the needle. Also drill the cover off the airscrew access. This is behind the slide tower on the right. It is a shiny aluminum plug. Try 1.5 turns out at first. Closing this screw (clockwise) make it more rich. https://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=32177 post #4 has links to the carb information. __________________ No matter where you go, there you are
	0

08-18-2024, 04:54 PM	#3
GypsyR Join Date: Feb 2023 Location: Upstate SC Posts: 348	Note that "rejetting" is just tuning it to make it run better or to suit you better. Don't worry about that until after you get it to where it starts and runs for you and you get some riding in. __________________ 2023 Templar 250 X
	0

08-18-2024, 05:36 PM	#5
Thumper Join Date: Feb 2021 Location: Kansas City Posts: 2,753	If you are below 2500 foot elevation, rejetting WILL be necessary. Some folks at 5000-6000 feet don't need to do anything! Running lean causes overheating and even detonation. And of course, hard starting, coughing and sputtering, and lots of back firing!!! EPA wants all vehicles to be running as lean as possible, so they force manufacturers to make carburetor access difficult. So the float bowl screws have breakaway heads with no slot or philips head, and the airscrew access is capped. It is not difficult to get into the carb, and fortunately the jets in there are standard jets. As I said, this is documented in the Templar Resource guide. __________________ No matter where you go, there you are
	0

08-19-2024, 11:06 AM	#9
GypsyR Join Date: Feb 2023 Location: Upstate SC Posts: 348	Mine came shipped lean. That meant (for me) if the engine was cold it WOULD NOT start without me holding the choke lever. And also holding the choke at least partially until the engine warned up a bit. After the engine had warned the choke didn't need to be touched. Now that I've redone the jets and carburetors and all it works a lot better. First thing cold in the morning I give it choke but am able to let off and it will idle by itself. A lot better when I am in a hurry to go to work where I used to have to baby it with some choke one before I could actually leave. Nowadays after work in the hot afternoon I don't need choke at all. We have a riding lawnmower that will never ever start cold without the choke on. Plus, if you let it sit even 20 minutes after mowing, even when the engine is pretty darn warm to the touch, you still have to choke it before will start. Point being that carbureted setups have "personalities". You have to figure out what they like. We're spoiled by fuel injected vehicles that basically crank up like flicking on a light switch these days. I'm old enough that I grew up with about everything having a carburetor so I take it for granted I have to learn what any engine "likes". People who grew up with EFI machines have to wrap their heads around this a little bit. __________________ 2023 Templar 250 X
	1

08-19-2024, 08:59 PM	#10
Truepkera Join Date: Aug 2024 Posts: 6	Hi guys. Still having issues with the bike not wanting to start. The battery is on 2 bars would that matter? I’ve taken a quick video of sound. It’s short video but you should be able to hear 3 different sounds. First with just the brake and the electric start. Next with the choke and electric start. And finally brake choke and throttle. Any idea why it’s not starting? It’s driving me nuts and I just want to ride it. It started 2 nights ago and nothing now. https://youtube.com/shorts/CWGElf5Mq...Wi-UHIKMOPf2WX
	0

08-19-2024, 09:55 PM	#11
Thumper Join Date: Feb 2021 Location: Kansas City Posts: 2,753	I think it is not on/firing. The different sounds are just response to carb condition (throttle). There is a kill switch on the right instrument cluster. Toggles forward (off) and back (on). If the lights are on (dash), the kill switch still needs to be on (closer red bar-press). Oh, your rear brake should satisfy the starter safety lockout. It is easier than pulling the front brake while managing the throttle and starter button. __________________ No matter where you go, there you are
	0

08-19-2024, 10:01 PM	#12
Truepkera Join Date: Aug 2024 Posts: 6	Does the battery effect the electric start with 2-3 bars? Or it will start with only that?
	0

08-19-2024, 10:22 PM	#14
Truepkera Join Date: Aug 2024 Posts: 6	Wow I’m a total noob. That worked. So for all the questions. Thank you so much! Lmfao!
	2

08-20-2024, 10:37 PM	#15
Crossbar Join Date: Jun 2024 Posts: 84	I got a laugh too reading this. The kill switch thing happens to me and maybe others. I never use it, I always use the key switch to kill the engine. I let a friend ride mine last week and for a while was worried as hell why I couldn't get it started after she left. I spent 10 minutes messing with choke, checking the fuel petcock and then finally thought of the kill switch she had used to cut it off. Rolled eyes at myself, offed the kill switch and it fired right up. I think she did on purpose...
	0