Hawk 250 rear brake "failure"

Redbookaudio · 07-30-2018, 05:34 PM

While enjoying massive acceleration after getting the carb tuned up, I needed to apply brakes and the rear brake pedal went to the "floor" with no response. Now I know why they say to check your nuts and bolts before every ride...and yes I will get some Locktite... the bolt on the rear brake lever had come out at some point on the ride and I can't find it.
My question is, does anyone know what size bolt, nut, washer I need to get the rear brake pedal hooked back up? Something I can get at the hardware store? Thanks! Chuck

Redbookaudio · 07-30-2018, 05:44 PM

And would the "Blue" threadlocker Loctite be the correct one?

RedCrowRides · 07-30-2018, 06:09 PM

Yes on the Blue Loctite, I cant help you on bolt size( I'm a Grom Clone guy) but keep checking your thread, the Hawk gurus are all pretty much still at work, I'm sure one of them can tell you as soon as they see the thread.Welcome to Chinariders.net too, by the way !

ChrisWNY · 07-30-2018, 06:17 PM

Those metal clip pins will fall out if they're not bent sufficiently - basically there's a thread-less bolt and a washer that is held on by a clip which allows the pedal to rotate freely on it. You could substitute a similar sized bolt and use a cotter pin or another type of pin (or buy a bolt with no threads on a portion of it and use a nylock nut to secure it, but don't tighten it down, it needs to move freely). Just measure the diameter of the hole and buy a bolt that is smaller than the diameter. You could use multiple washers to provide some spacing so that you're not rubbing against the nylock nut. You won't even need to use threadlocker if you thread a nylock nut on whatever bolt you buy. Hopefully that makes sense.

I posted photos for reference....

Digger · 07-30-2018, 06:25 PM

Mine did that as well. I used a 1/4 in. nylock nut and bolt.I used a longer one so the body size on the bolt contacted the clevis and the lever. I cut off the excess length.

roundhouse · 07-30-2018, 08:33 PM

Not coming off now! glad it did not cause a catastrophic event.

ChrisWNY · 07-30-2018, 09:45 PM

Minor issue, I always check my rear brake pedal since there are several small parts on it. The rear brake only accounts for a small % of braking anyway. As long as your front is working you should be ok with the rear brake going out on a ride.

Did you end up going with the nylock nut, 1/4" bolt to lock it down?

Redbookaudio · 07-30-2018, 09:45 PM

Thanks for the info and pictures ChrisWNY.... I didn't remember what was holding it together. And thanks others for the info on the loctite and nylock nut information. I'll head to my local hardware store and have the bike back on the road tomorrow!

Redbookaudio · 07-30-2018, 09:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ChrisWNY

Minor issue, I always check my rear brake petal since there are several small parts on it. The rear brake only accounts for a small % of braking anyway. As long as your front is working you should be ok with the rear brake going out on a ride.

Did you end up going with the nylock nut, 1/4" bolt to lock it down?

I haven't done the repair yet Chris... I was thinking I'd ride the bike to the local VERY GOOD hardware store and see what they say... I also learned about a "castellated" nut which might be an option. I don't want to overthink it... just want to be safe and get back on the road!

ChrisWNY · 07-30-2018, 09:59 PM

A stainless 1/4" bolt with a nylock nut and some washers would probably be much more durable/rigid than the stock nut w/flimsy clip. Personally I may go that route to proactively prevent any issues that might crop up with the current rear brake pedal set up.

Redbookaudio · 07-31-2018, 03:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ChrisWNY

A stainless 1/4" bolt with a nylock nut and some washers would probably be much more durable/rigid than the stock nut w/flimsy clip. Personally I may go that route to proactively prevent any issues that might crop up with the current rear brake pedal set up.

A guy at the hardware store pick out a stainless bolt and a nylock nut and even installed on the bike for me (he was a biker and was happy to do it).... I noticed he did NOT use washers. He did say "that's not coming off again!" We'll see... it looks like he came one thread short of completely getting the nylock nut on.
TOTAL COST of parts and labor: $0.41

Redbookaudio · 07-31-2018, 03:29 PM

Here's two pictures

ChrisWNY · 07-31-2018, 04:36 PM

Looks good...as long as that nylock nut is threaded far enough onto the bolt to hold. It looks from the second photo that the nut may not be threaded on very far since the end of the bolt isn't sticking out. The other advantage a slightly longer bolt would provide is the ability to add a washer or two on each side to prevent any binding against the nut or bolt head, etc.

Redbookaudio · 07-31-2018, 06:08 PM

Sounds like I get to ride the bike to the hardware store again!

ChrisWNY · 07-31-2018, 06:46 PM

Go with a somewhat longer bolt and some 1/4" washers (if you bought a 1/4" bolt). Use washers on both sides. The bolt should be on there somewhat loosely so there's a small 1/16" or so gap. The threaded side of the bolt should go straight through that nylock nut with some threads sticking out of the nut. The bolt looks good otherwise, but you'll be better off with a longer one.

07-30-2018, 05:44 PM	#2
Redbookaudio Join Date: Jun 2018 Posts: 40	And would the "Blue" threadlocker Loctite be the correct one? __________________ Hawk 250
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07-30-2018, 06:09 PM	#3
RedCrowRides Join Date: Jun 2018 Location: Florida Posts: 759	Yes on the Blue Loctite, I cant help you on bolt size( I'm a Grom Clone guy) but keep checking your thread, the Hawk gurus are all pretty much still at work, I'm sure one of them can tell you as soon as they see the thread.Welcome to Chinariders.net too, by the way ! __________________ 2001 Mustang GT 2004 Sportster 2018 VADER 2020 Orion RXB250L
	0

07-30-2018, 06:17 PM	#4
ChrisWNY Join Date: Jul 2018 Posts: 212	Those metal clip pins will fall out if they're not bent sufficiently - basically there's a thread-less bolt and a washer that is held on by a clip which allows the pedal to rotate freely on it. You could substitute a similar sized bolt and use a cotter pin or another type of pin (or buy a bolt with no threads on a portion of it and use a nylock nut to secure it, but don't tighten it down, it needs to move freely). Just measure the diameter of the hole and buy a bolt that is smaller than the diameter. You could use multiple washers to provide some spacing so that you're not rubbing against the nylock nut. You won't even need to use threadlocker if you thread a nylock nut on whatever bolt you buy. Hopefully that makes sense. I posted photos for reference.... __________________ 2018 RPS Hawk 250cc Mods so far: 1. Mikuni VM26 Carburetor w/#115 main jet 2. 17T/45T JT sprockets 3. JT 428 X-ring chain 4. Air box mod 5. Hawk Digital Cluster 6. Aftermarket IMS shift lever 7. Performance Aftermarket Exhaust 8. 295mm Nitrogen Gas Monoshock, 20W oil front forks
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07-30-2018, 09:45 PM	#7
ChrisWNY Join Date: Jul 2018 Posts: 212	Minor issue, I always check my rear brake pedal since there are several small parts on it. The rear brake only accounts for a small % of braking anyway. As long as your front is working you should be ok with the rear brake going out on a ride. Did you end up going with the nylock nut, 1/4" bolt to lock it down? __________________ 2018 RPS Hawk 250cc Mods so far: 1. Mikuni VM26 Carburetor w/#115 main jet 2. 17T/45T JT sprockets 3. JT 428 X-ring chain 4. Air box mod 5. Hawk Digital Cluster 6. Aftermarket IMS shift lever 7. Performance Aftermarket Exhaust 8. 295mm Nitrogen Gas Monoshock, 20W oil front forks Last edited by ChrisWNY; 07-31-2018 at 12:23 PM.
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07-30-2018, 09:45 PM	#8
Redbookaudio Join Date: Jun 2018 Posts: 40	Thanks for the info and pictures ChrisWNY.... I didn't remember what was holding it together. And thanks others for the info on the loctite and nylock nut information. I'll head to my local hardware store and have the bike back on the road tomorrow! __________________ Hawk 250
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07-30-2018, 06:25 PM	#5
Digger Join Date: Jul 2018 Posts: 64	Mine did that as well. I used a 1/4 in. nylock nut and bolt.I used a longer one so the body size on the bolt contacted the clevis and the lever. I cut off the excess length.
	1

07-30-2018, 08:33 PM	#6
roundhouse Join Date: Sep 2017 Location: N Texas Posts: 706	Not coming off now! glad it did not cause a catastrophic event.
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07-30-2018, 09:59 PM	#10
ChrisWNY Join Date: Jul 2018 Posts: 212	A stainless 1/4" bolt with a nylock nut and some washers would probably be much more durable/rigid than the stock nut w/flimsy clip. Personally I may go that route to proactively prevent any issues that might crop up with the current rear brake pedal set up. __________________ 2018 RPS Hawk 250cc Mods so far: 1. Mikuni VM26 Carburetor w/#115 main jet 2. 17T/45T JT sprockets 3. JT 428 X-ring chain 4. Air box mod 5. Hawk Digital Cluster 6. Aftermarket IMS shift lever 7. Performance Aftermarket Exhaust 8. 295mm Nitrogen Gas Monoshock, 20W oil front forks
	1

07-31-2018, 04:36 PM	#13
ChrisWNY Join Date: Jul 2018 Posts: 212	Looks good...as long as that nylock nut is threaded far enough onto the bolt to hold. It looks from the second photo that the nut may not be threaded on very far since the end of the bolt isn't sticking out. The other advantage a slightly longer bolt would provide is the ability to add a washer or two on each side to prevent any binding against the nut or bolt head, etc. __________________ 2018 RPS Hawk 250cc Mods so far: 1. Mikuni VM26 Carburetor w/#115 main jet 2. 17T/45T JT sprockets 3. JT 428 X-ring chain 4. Air box mod 5. Hawk Digital Cluster 6. Aftermarket IMS shift lever 7. Performance Aftermarket Exhaust 8. 295mm Nitrogen Gas Monoshock, 20W oil front forks
	2

07-31-2018, 06:08 PM	#14
Redbookaudio Join Date: Jun 2018 Posts: 40	Sounds like I get to ride the bike to the hardware store again! __________________ Hawk 250
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07-31-2018, 06:46 PM	#15
ChrisWNY Join Date: Jul 2018 Posts: 212	Go with a somewhat longer bolt and some 1/4" washers (if you bought a 1/4" bolt). Use washers on both sides. The bolt should be on there somewhat loosely so there's a small 1/16" or so gap. The threaded side of the bolt should go straight through that nylock nut with some threads sticking out of the nut. The bolt looks good otherwise, but you'll be better off with a longer one. __________________ 2018 RPS Hawk 250cc Mods so far: 1. Mikuni VM26 Carburetor w/#115 main jet 2. 17T/45T JT sprockets 3. JT 428 X-ring chain 4. Air box mod 5. Hawk Digital Cluster 6. Aftermarket IMS shift lever 7. Performance Aftermarket Exhaust 8. 295mm Nitrogen Gas Monoshock, 20W oil front forks
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