02-23-2017, 08:27 PM | #1 |
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 28
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Coolster 3150DX 2 Gear Issue
Hey fellas, got another question about the gears/transmission on the coolsters (automatic).
As my fiance and I finished riding today and were parking the atv's, the coolster doesn't want to go forward anymore. It has a shift lever that goes R-N-F. It reverses fine and when in neutral the light is on indicating it's in neutral. When I move it to forward, the lights turn off indicating it's in forward but it won't move as I push the throttle in. It just revs up. Is there something to be adjusted or what can I check to fix this? |
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02-23-2017, 09:36 PM | #2 |
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 1,335
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It sounds like the F-N-R box isn't engaging. It could be as simple as adjusting the rod from the shifter to the F-N-R box to allow the box lever to move further into the forward position.
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02-23-2017, 09:48 PM | #3 | |
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 28
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Quote:
Thanks ben2go, is there pics or videos anywhere showing what these things are? |
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02-23-2017, 10:00 PM | #4 |
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 28
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I attached some photos. Is this thing I'm pointing at the rod? How do I adjust this? It looks like that thing on the top of the rod probably isn't pushing up far enough to switch to F gear.
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02-23-2017, 10:04 PM | #5 | |
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 1,335
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I worked on a Chinese go cart with a very similar set up. It had the same problem and that's what it took to get it going again. It happened soon after break in. There's usually an adjustable rod end or clevis at the bottom of the shifter, or on the shift lever on the F-N-R box. It's as simple as taking the end loose and adjusting it in or out to push or pull the F-N-R box into gear. It doesn't usually take much. Just a couple turns on the rod end/clevis. |
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02-23-2017, 10:06 PM | #6 |
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 1,335
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That is the rod end that may need to be adjusted. Take the rod end loose, push it all the way into the forward position, and then adjust the rod end to mate up with the shift lever.
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02-23-2017, 11:55 PM | #7 | |
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 28
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Quote:
It wasn't as easy as just turning the nuts in both end to adjust it. I had to remove the bolt and nut with the spacer on top of the rod. Only then you can turn the top piece of the rod to adjust longer or shorter. First I guess I turned it too much so when I assembled it and started up, it would go forward and neutral but not reverse I then had to disassemble 2 more times, shortening back the rod until I got it just right where it can click in forward and reverse gears I couldn't really test it out because it's 11pm and don't want to disturb the neighbors, but the little I tried in the garage seems like it's working. Will test further tomorrow! Thank you! |
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02-24-2017, 12:34 AM | #8 | |
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 1,335
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Quote:
Those things are a pain. They're not designed to break the nuts loose and adjust like a turn buckle or tie rod. You have to remove one end or the other. I'm surprised it doesn't have enough play in the shifter to allow a quick adjust. Seems the newer stuff may require fine tuning like a high-end machine. I'm happy you have made progress. Good luck with the trial run. |
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03-12-2017, 06:13 PM | #9 |
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Ashby, Ma
Posts: 34
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I mentioned in your other thread that the linkage rod is probably fine. The issue is the two 8mm screws that hold the arm on the trans. Very methodically move the arm and you may notice they are loose. The two bolts that hold the spacer and eyelets on were loose on mine as well after break in. A little loctite and all was well. If the linkage rod was working fine prior, then it is not your issue. There's very small play in the loose screws that allow the travel to not be enough to engage the trans.
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