01-29-2016, 07:01 PM | #1 |
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Texas
Posts: 93
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Hawk Valve Clearance
I saw this on the TT250 thread and thought I'd copy this here, since for all intents and purposes, it's identical for the Hawk. I just did this myself last weekend and couldn't summarize the steps any better:
http://californiascooterco.com/blog/?p=19832 I would suggest skipping the seat and gas tank removal on the Hawk. There's enough clearance after removing the front trim pieces to access and remove the valve cover as well as get to the gaps themselves. I remember that someone else posted here that there was no valve clearance at all on his Hawk when he first opened it up - same for mine. Had to loosen and back off the adjuster to create it. Now it sounds like it should - got that soft, light clicking going on. The article does a nice job explaining why too little gap is bad thing over time, so if these are shipping here with no gap to start, it's a good thing to check during break-in. It's recommended in the first round of maintenance in the owner's manual. Since CSC put together a really nice write-up for pretty much any 229cc engine, that helps to make it a pretty easy thing to check during that first oil change. It's a 30 minute to an hour job tops. |
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02-01-2016, 11:17 AM | #2 |
Join Date: Nov 2015
Posts: 7
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Thanks Torgo,
After reading your post I decided to check my valve clearances. I ended up having zero clearance on both valves. I set mine to 3 thou of an inch (3 thou = 0.0762 mm) a tad outside of recommend my feeler gauges are in thou and couldnt decide 2 thou or 3 thou. After reading the article and what it said about wear make me go with 3 thou. After performing the adjustment my bike started up with no choke and felt like it had more top end power. I put on 20 miles on the bike and plan to recheck before I ride it again. Before the adjustment it was making no valve ticking noise. Now after the adjustment it was making valve ticking noise. |
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02-01-2016, 02:31 PM | #3 |
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Idaho
Posts: 25,054
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Slappy valves are happy valves. Keep up the good work. Other than frequently changing the engine oil, the best thing you can do to prolong the life of your engine is to maintain the proper valve lash.
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Spud "Never argue with an idiot. He will drag you down to his level, and beat you with experience." Mark Twain 2015 Zongshen ZS250GY-3 (RX3) 2006 Zongshen ZS200GY-2 (Sierra 200) 2005 Honda XR650L 2004 Honda CRF250X 1998 Kawasaki KDX220 Mods made to my Zongshen ZS200GY-2: http://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=6894 |
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02-01-2016, 03:43 PM | #4 |
Join Date: Jan 2016
Posts: 63
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If I remember, the RPS Hawk valve lash is 0.05mm
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02-01-2016, 06:13 PM | #5 |
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Volcano, Ca
Posts: 7,112
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On the CG type (pushrod) motors I've been using .05 on the intake and .08 on the exhaust. Seems to work out ok. I'd imagine the exhaust valve runs hotter causing more expansion, would be my guess. Saw this online somewhere.....probably here! LOL!
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"Light a fire for a man, and you heat him for a day. Light a man on fire, and you heat him for the rest of his life." 2007 Suzuki DRZ400S (SM convert) 2009 Q Link XP 200 1967 BSA B25 250cc Starfire 2022 Royal Enfield Interceptor 650 2023 Royal Enfield Scram 411 1948 Royal Enfield Model G 350 |
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02-02-2016, 10:30 AM | #7 | |
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Sardis, BC, Canada
Posts: 25,977
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Quote:
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Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer |
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05-22-2016, 10:33 PM | #8 |
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Des Plaines, IL
Posts: 85
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I just checked my clearance...
my exhaust side was gliding snugly with .002 inch(.051mm) and the intake side was a little more loose with barely any friction on the .002 inch |
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05-23-2016, 12:11 AM | #9 |
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 65
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I just did mine yesterday. From the factory it came with ZERO. It was extremely tight... Took about 45 minutes to do it the first time. Probably take 15 next time now that I've done it once.
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John P. 2016 Hawk 250 - Black All my mods are documented on my Blog! My Blog | Google+ | Twitter | Facebook |
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05-23-2016, 11:02 AM | #10 |
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Mooresville NC
Posts: 2,107
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good for you!!! it WILL be easier the next time. I had the tank off while putting the new digital speedo on and decided to go ahead and check them. I had one loose (probably my fault on the last adjustment). it really took me more time to get the feeler gauges and such out than to actually do the adjustment.
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09-02-2016, 08:53 PM | #11 |
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 118
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Checked my clearance today, only about 15 miles on the bike so far and I had zero clearance. I adjusted them to .07 per the CSC guide and I think I overdid it because now its very loud, but it started easier than it ever has. I've lost my daylight so I'll start again tomorrow.
On the drag, should I be able to push the feeler without it bending? Or should I just be able slide it in like a knife and pull it out? |
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09-02-2016, 10:44 PM | #12 | |
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: akwesasne, NY-13655
Posts: 2,220
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Quote:
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09-03-2016, 06:24 AM | #13 | |
Join Date: May 2016
Posts: 237
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Quote:
ive heard alot of figures on the amt of lash needed, mine are set to .05. its not loud at all. anything is better than .00 |
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09-03-2016, 07:06 AM | #14 |
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 118
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As much as I had to turn that adjustment screw, I wonder if my valves were even closing all the way. Thank goodness I read this and checked them ASAP or I KNOW I would have ended up with burnt valves.
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09-03-2016, 07:46 AM | #15 |
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 1,914
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Probably would not have burned the valves because on these engines the valve lash increases as the engine warms up.
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