Apollo 250 SMOG/Emissions Control Delete

[MudIntent]

This past weekend. I made some more changes to the apollo, I wanted to get the pictures up in case anyone was interested. Here is a list of what I did.

* Removed Cat from header pipe. I didn't really care to make it look pretty so I used the tried and true method of cutting the pipe in half right before the bulge and drilled and chiseled it out. This took longer than I initially anticipated, that sucker was glued in with some pretty strong adhesive. As you can see in the pics, it had to be restricting at least 50% of the exhaust air flow. I then had it welded back together using the heat shield installed to keep it lined up.

* Removed all of the Smog crap that I later found out was called the SAIS (secondary air injection system) cali / EPA crap. Cut the head vent off and had a buddy weld the hole shut into a plate as Slayder described doing with his.

* I ended up removing the stock oil/air separator (I think that's what it's called) that's connected to the crankcase vent. I plan on either running a new hose with a K&N vent filter on the end out of the way somewhere, replacing the stock setup or just running a new hose straight towards the ground but I worry about debris getting sucked in with that method... and thoughts?

The next move will be re-gearing it and replacing the stock chain with one that's a little beefier. Mine came stock with a 14 Tooth front Sprocket and a 38 Tooth in the rear. Nowhere near the low end power that I want and plenty of top end speed so I know I can sacrifice a good bit of that for low end grunt. I have already acquired a new chain and 12 Tooth front Sprocket and am waiting on a custom rear Sprocket that I ordered from Kim with PMP sprockets in Texas. I had a hell of a time trying to find a rear sprocket that had more than one measurement the same as my stock rear Sprocket in 530 pitch, let alone a 48 Tooth. I ended up taking the measurements of mine and ordering a custom one. It was a little more than I was hoping to spend on a single sprocket for this bike but I'm hoping it works and gives me the power characteristics that I desire.

[ben2go]

Yes. You need to filter the crankcase tube. K&N makes a little filter that fits most motorcycle crankcase barb fitting. I used to know the part number but I can't think of it right off. you can measure it and then compare numbers to the website info.

[ben2go]

The crankcase filter part number is 62-1320. I'm not sure if it will fit china bikes but it fits most Japanese bikes. You can always buy a cheap nylon/plastic barb and mate it to the crankcase breather tube.

Ignore the price on the website. You can find them much cheaper by shopping around.
http://www.knfilters.com/search/prod...x?prod=62-1320

[2LZ]

If you can find a fat enough fuel filter to fit the line, that would work too. That said, most crankcase vents are valved and push out but don't pull in. They acts like a PVC valve on a car. All of my older bikes came from the factory with a hose that just vented to the atmosphere. My old Harley had the novel idea of spitting the oil mist on the chain. I've not run any filters on any of my bikes and have not had issues. It's a nice safeguard though. I'll probably end up putting something on my RX3's and TT250 since I changed those up a bit and vented them out. My only concern would be to make sure and keep the filter clean. You don't want it clogging and pressurizing the crank when it's supposed to freely blow out. Kind of why I like the cleanable K&N idea like bengo listed, or a disposable fuel filter.

[MudIntent]

Originally Posted by ben2go

Yes. You need to filter the crankcase tube. K&N makes a little filter that fits most motorcycle crankcase barb fitting. I used to know the part number but I can't think of it right off. you can measure it and then compare numbers to the website info.

Thanks. Yep, as I mentioned the K&N vent hose filter was one of the options I was considering. I guess it's probably the safest way to go, I have seen several people swear up and down that just running an open hose to the ground is fine but I have also read posts from others that rode through a creek and said they sucked water into their crankcase. I definitely don't want to be in the latter category

[MudIntent]

Originally Posted by 2LZ

If you can find a fat enough fuel filter to fit the line, that would work too. That said, most crankcase vents are valved and push out but don't pull in. They acts like a PVC valve on a car. All of my older bikes came from the factory with a hose that just vented to the atmosphere. My old Harley had the novel idea of spitting the oil mist on the chain. I've not run any filters on any of my bikes and have not had issues. It's a nice safeguard though. I'll probably end up putting something on my RX3's and TT250 since I changed those up a bit and vented them out. My only concern would be to make sure and keep the filter clean. You don't want it clogging and pressurizing the crank when it's supposed to freely blow out. Kind of why I like the cleanable K&N idea like bengo listed, or a disposable fuel filter.

Thanks. Ahhh That totally makes sense now.. When I looked into the hole on the crankcase, it didn't really appear to go anywhere. It makes sense that the valve was most likely closed when I looked down into it.

[MudIntent]

In case y'all are interested, I wanted to show you these pictures too. When I was doing my valve adjustment, it took me forever to read the TDC indicator on my engine as the Chinaman that built the damn thing forgot to put a timing window on the top of the crankcase and instead put it on the side. So as you can see. I had to squint through this hole sideways with a flashlight to barely see the T marks that were on top of whatever part that's called that they are on. It was bizarre to me, have any of y'all experienced this with any of your Chinese engines before?

By the way, Sorry about the way my pictures post all sideways, I'm sure the dimensions are just wrong since I'm posting from my phone.

[ben2go]

Originally Posted by MudIntent

Thanks. Ahhh That totally makes sense now.. When I looked into the hole on the crankcase, it didn't really appear to go anywhere. It makes sense that the valve was most likely closed when I looked down into it.

There is no valve in there on most bikes. Most bikes don't have a PCV valve. Instead they have a baffled port to stop oil from getting blown directly out of the hose barb on the valve cover. Some manufacturers even fill the space inside the baffle with something resembling a steel wool pad. It helps but doesn't keep fine particles out, and water can be sucked up on the piston's up stroke. Not usually enough to lock the engine up, but enough to foam up the oil and ruin the bottom end bearings.

[humanbeing]

Originally Posted by MudIntent

...took me forever to read the TDC indicator on my engine as the Chinaman that built the damn thing forgot to put a timing window on the top of the crankcase and instead put it on the side. So as you can see. I had to squint through this hole sideways with a flashlight to barely see the T marks that were on top of whatever part that's called that they are on. It was bizarre to me...

Newer Honda use that kind http://kjaer.com/media/187148/XL125L...ervice_Cat.pdf of hole
---
Asian squat (optional) https://www.youtube.com/results?sear...ry=asian+squat & peeping tom's skill made that job done easier

[MudIntent]

Originally Posted by humanbeing

Newer Honda use that kind http://kjaer.com/media/187148/XL125L...ervice_Cat.pdf of hole
---
Asian squat (optional) https://www.youtube.com/results?sear...ry=asian+squat & peeping tom's skill made that job done easier

Thanks for posting these, it's cool to see how they should have copied this feature. Unfortunately, It's still an issue with my bike as they left the T marks on the top of the flywheel, instead of using a flywheel with marks on the side as shown in that manual. I definitely appreciate Seeing that there can be a right way of using side timing windows but it also takes having the T marks in the correct place.

[pete]

While you had the cat cut apart yer could have turned it into a power bomb chamber...
Reduce the strength of the retuning presure wave & create negitve / less presure in the header pipe..
then the next exhaust charge hasn't got to fight so hard to get into the exhust pipe...



..

[timcosby]

Originally Posted by pete

While you had the cat cut apart yer could have turned it into a power bomb chamber...
Reduce the strength of the retuning presure wave & create negitve / less presure in the header pipe..
then the next exhaust charge hasn't got to fight so hard to get into the exhust pipe...



..

how would you do that? lengthen the rear tube into the chamber some????

[pete]

Originally Posted by timcosby

how would you do that? lengthen the rear tube into the chamber some????

no the front tube... 25/30mm.




.

[GX36]

How does it run now with everything removed?
Did you notice any gains in power?

[MudIntent]

Originally Posted by GX36

How does it run now with everything removed?
Did you notice any gains in power?

To be honest I don't think I really noticed much of a power increase, however it seemed like it was much easier to start after all that was removed and it was certainly eAsier to jet the thing. I did however notice a great deal of increased low end torque when I re-geared the thing more to my liking.