Snorkel for 200cc Beast

[cameron88]

I have seen videos of the 200c Beast going through 3 feet deep water but no information on a snorkel for it.
My first ride out with stock air filter I tried to go through a 1ft deep small stream and the filter got wet, bogged down the motor until it all went though. got out ok but I want to be able to get seriously wet and muddy and with the stock filter it’s impossible.

I attempted to put a vacuum hose on it and run it up off the rack, but it can’t breathe and bogs out... :(
I tried turning the filter to face the bottom of the seat and have the same issue, cant breath enough and bogs out.
Everything I have read about snorkels says they need to start the size of the opening and have a bigger and bigger diameter the further you go with it, plus I am not sure how you would get a filter on the tube.

Has anyone done this? Can you give me any advice on how to accomplish this?
Pictures of a setup would be great!!

[katoranger]

I have seen them made from PVC, but I never really looked into as I don't have an ATV.

Remember that riding in the mud/water with be really hard on the bearings/electrical components. If you want to do this seal all the wire connectors and use dielectric grease on them to keep them from corroding.

Clean a repack the bearings after every ride too.

Allen

[Weldangrind]

I'd also be concerned about drawing water into the vent tube, along with the rear axle. Since I know my quads will get wet also, I switched to sealed bearings in the rear axle and drilled and tapped the housing for a zerk; the only point to that is to pack grease between the bearings so water can't get in. It would be a good idea to re-route the vent tube up high, and then point it back down.

You could use black ABS pipe for your snorkel. You could use the original boot from the stock air cleaner to seal the abs to the carb, and then use a Uni pod on the other end of the ABS. The reason you should step up in size is that air will slow down at each bend and after a few feet of straight pipe. The smoothest path would be to run the pipe straight out the back, tucked up to the bodywork. Once you've exited the rear fender, you could go straight up and then put a filter on top.

Check out the dual layer pod filters here.

[cameron88]

I already have started with the die electric grease and silicon to water proof the wiring, thanks for the heads up tho, nice to see others looking at all the issues for what I want to do.

One issue with greasing, cant find a grease nipple anywhere on it!
the rear axle is a sealed unit and is very stiff brand new!

I think i am going to have to rip it apart, get better bearings for it and new seals to fix that.
Anyone tried to grease a Gio Beast 200cc rear axle? any advise?

As for the PVC, thats what I was kinda thinking looking at other snokel kits, just going to be a pain to make... plus the size needs to get larger with each couple inches to allow for the correct volume of air to flow.
Wish some one sold a gerneric snorkel kit... i should figure it out and get it copy righted!

[katoranger]

WeldandGrind is pretty much the expert on the gio beast here.

I don't know if you really have to keep stepping it up or just start larger. Try to find a homebuilt one for an atc 200 or similar honda. That should get you in the right direction.

[Weldangrind]

Not sure if you read my post or not, Cameron88.

What I'm saying is that I switched to sealed bearings and then drilled and tapped the housing for a grease fitting. Check it out:



I'm also saying that ABS pipe is a good choice, along with a uni pod filter. Basically, you're just creating a filter extension, so that it is no longer directly connected to the carb.

You won't need to worry about stepping up in size every couple of inches. If you carry a piece of ABS straight out the back and then elbow up, that would be where I would transition one size larger. Make sense?

[cameron88]

Weldangrind,

Cant thank you enought for the discription and pic, thats what I thought you meant and the pic makes it clear. One question, where did you find the sealed bearings for it and how hard was it to install? Kind of a silly question, as I get mine appart it will be come clear, just figure if you can give me any pointers it might help make things easyer for me.

As for the snokel that makes perfect sense, I will be off to get matrial tonight

Thanks again Weldangrind.

Cameron88

[katoranger]

You may be the first to snorkel a china atv.

Allen

[katoranger]

Well someone else beat you to the china atv snorkel. This may give you some ideas.

[cameron88]

I will have to get some pics and a video up once i get it all done. Next ride is planed in a few weeks so I am off to work this eveing to try and getter done!

This video on You Tube is what got me in to thinking I can get super muddy LOL



Thanks for the help all,
Cameron88

[katoranger]

Watching him "water wheelie" alittle got me thinking that maybe you don't want the filter at the rear. Having it up near the bars might be better since that would be higher up. Also would be more out of the way of getting on and off the atv.

Allen

[katoranger]

This is what I am thinking. You would use the stock airbox, but add some sealant around areas. The vacuum hose is a good idea or the pool pump hose.

[cameron88]

The big issue here... There is no air box! just a rubber 45deg angle and air filter.

I guess you could call the air filter a box, but its just a tube with 2 holes and foam in the middle, way to small to add anything to it.

I agree I may want to go out the front, but with having to do a 180 to get it headed in the right direction i think it will constrict the air flow to much.

I will get some pics up in the next few days, if me and my bud figure it out I will show you with the pics.

[katoranger]

The best thing to do it to use a pipe a size larger than the carb intake. Only so much air can go in. You will make it work.

[Weldangrind]

Originally Posted by cameron88

Weldangrind,

Cant thank you enought for the discription and pic, thats what I thought you meant and the pic makes it clear. One question, where did you find the sealed bearings for it and how hard was it to install? Kind of a silly question, as I get mine appart it will be come clear, just figure if you can give me any pointers it might help make things easyer for me.

As for the snokel that makes perfect sense, I will be off to get matrial tonight

Thanks again Weldangrind.

Cameron88

I bought the sealed bearings from Precise Bearing in Abbotsford, BC. You'll likely have a local bearing shop that can help you (take your existing bearings and seals in to be matched). It's not terribly difficult to install the bearings; the axle slides out to the left after removing the caliper and rotor, and the seals don't do much except keep debris from having direct contact with the bearing. It doesn't really matter if your new seals are exactly the same width. They can be a bit narrower, because they're not sealing a typical tapered roller that you pack with grease. While the housing is empty, you can safely drill and tap to add a zerk if you wish (also easier to check for schrapnel).

Upon reassembly, it's important to tighten the two jam nuts properly to the right of the rotor. You want just enough pressure that the axle doesn't have slop in the housing, but not so much that the axle and bearings bind. Yours is probably not correct now, hence your comment about the rear axle being very stiff. New bearings and proper adjustment will cure that.

I'm with you on the snorkel being difficult to route out the front. I also agree that you won't be able to seal the existing "airbox", but you would be able to seal some ABS to the carb and then mount the filter up high. I admit that getting on and off will be tougher with a snorkel out the back.