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Old 09-24-2013, 12:28 AM   #1
oviking99   oviking99 is offline
 
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Redcat GY200

Well, I bought a 200? Redcat today. I paid 350.00 for it, including a new battery. It has 47 miles on the OD. It looks like it may have sat outside in the weather. The plastic shipping covering is still on the seat. It's rusty in some areas. It started and ran good with the choke partially engaged. The fellow said the 'carb needs to be cleaned'.
When I got it home I saw some big cracks in the rubber intake manifold. That's why it needed the choke engaged. Air leaks. I am surprised it ran as good as it did. Shifted thru all the gears up and down the street. The front tire has dry rot. Hard to look at new tires in that condition. I suspect it was purchased at an auction. The dealership probably went belly up. I did get a legal Bill of Sale with it. Bought it from a dealer/towing company. They installed a new warranted battery. The 'new' tool kit was still in the stowage tube. I'll post photos later. It looks new, but has sat for awhile. I could not pass it up.


 
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Old 09-24-2013, 12:38 AM   #2
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Sounds good.

I'm sure a replacement carb holder is easy to find on eBay. Pick up some decent cheap tires AND tubes, and clean the idle jet and you're good to go.

Why would someone buy a new bike and then let it rot in the elements?
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Old 09-24-2013, 12:58 AM   #3
Weldangrind   Weldangrind is offline
 
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Good score! Looking forward to pics.
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Old 09-24-2013, 10:44 AM   #4
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Old 09-24-2013, 10:48 AM   #5
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Old 09-24-2013, 10:50 AM   #6
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Old 09-24-2013, 10:55 AM   #7
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Old 09-24-2013, 11:00 AM   #8
oviking99   oviking99 is offline
 
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I'm wondering somehow if it didn't sit in water. Mud in the top of the cylinder head, etc. Flood vehicle?
Actually the dried mud at the cylinder are wasp nests. Electrolysis, on many of the parts. The Chinese could learn some lessons on combining dissimilar metals. The reason for a lot of the damages, accelerated rust. In the carb pic, the manifold stud is zinc plated, while the rusted nut is not. The reason for corrosion. Add water, the electrolyte, and you get a battery effect.


 
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Old 09-24-2013, 11:12 AM   #9
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It looks 99.9% identical, even in color, to Ron's bike which I think I'll be getting in the next few days.

I like these GY2's. Built like tanks, and weigh about the same ;-)
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Old 09-24-2013, 11:14 AM   #10
alchemysa   alchemysa is offline
 
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Good value. It looks like a 200cc pushrod Loncin engine. I have a complete parts diagram for that engine but its about 3 meg. If you want it let me know.

Big cracks in the manifold may be caused by pressure from a badly aligned airbox. I had to 'remodel' the outlet of my airbox so it lined up better.

Is that carb the one with the impossible to get at mixture screw?
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Old 09-24-2013, 11:47 AM   #11
oviking99   oviking99 is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FastDoc View Post
It looks 99.9% identical, even in color, to Ron's bike which I think I'll be getting in the next few days.

I like these GY2's. Built like tanks, and weigh about the same ;-)
Lucky for you Doc! In my opinion, the 200GY-2 has more quality, it feels solid. The GY200 seems a bit 'cheaper', but it's a beast in weight.


 
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Old 09-24-2013, 11:51 AM   #12
oviking99   oviking99 is offline
 
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Originally Posted by alchemysa View Post
Good value. It looks like a 200cc pushrod Loncin engine. I have a complete parts diagram for that engine but its about 3 meg. If you want it let me know.

Big cracks in the manifold may be caused by pressure from a badly aligned airbox. I had to 'remodel' the outlet of my airbox so it lined up better.

Is that carb the one with the impossible to get at mixture screw?
Thanks alchemysa. I'll message you.
Yes the engine is a 163FML, pushrod. It runs great, even with the cracked manifold which will be replaced shortly. I agree with your deduction about the badly aligned airbox. I will fix this one as well. The website claims 18 hp?? Sounds a bit high to me.


 
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Old 09-24-2013, 11:57 AM   #13
oviking99   oviking99 is offline
 
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This is from a British site on simple mods for making 'cheap' horsepower and improving the bike in general.

"Exhaust manifold collar comes pre blocked with pidgeon s__t weld. Air filter location is dreadfull. You will need to remove the monoshock and drill, reem and insert grease nipples if you want to keep it more than a fewmonths. Everthing vibes off. Even when thixo loctited. Air induction valve needs sorting, its fitted to clean up exhaust byallowing air from the airbox to be drawn into the zorst via a valve..but its a pain. They respond well to a jet, filter, plug, exhaust coller reem and ditch the transit oil and use some good 5/40. Change it every 100 miles until you have done a 1000 miles. 17mm sump nut, make sure you lean bike well to each side after you THINK all the oils out...it still has half a pint in there amongst the crankcase baffles.The filter is a washable thimble affair under a 24 mm nut. Needs washing everytime. Starter solenoids are pants. Get a japoon one. engine earth strap runs against the zorst..move it to another crancase bolt. Expect 100mpg and about 70 mph. Very tractable off road. And believe me I have had mine....off road doing gps points for B.O.A.T'S.
The list goes on.
Ditch the cheng shin hedge finders. Use pirellis. Oh, replce grease nipple in the swing arm while you have it out on the bench. Its a chinese one and has no known corresponding grease gun size in the western hemisphere. Fit an m6 straight. Remove wiring loom and do all the connections again spraying them with castrol chain lube. Fit led bulb in the back...vibes. You should also take a crash course in wheel trueing as many if not all come with poorly assembled wheels.
All pretty straight forward. Hope this helps. Oh, nearly forgot. You will need to remove the engine on many gy 200's ie sukida in order to do the TAPPETS!! We have found that you can manage by undoing the front engine mounts, slacken chain and remove cold air valve after tank cover, tank, side panels etc and the engine swings forward until the exhaust studs foul the frame down tube. You can then just remove the rocker cover. It has a runner gasket so no drama there. Made to a budget but if sorted are ok. capable. Take a hit quite well. I paid £350 plus p and p for mine. About 90 registers it at dvla and I paid 130 for insurance via rampdale."


 
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Old 09-24-2013, 01:06 PM   #14
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I'd say maybe 18HP at the crank, and I'd guess that to be a major stretch. Maybe 15? For what it is, and what it is made to do, that's fine.
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Old 09-24-2013, 01:22 PM   #15
oviking99   oviking99 is offline
 
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alchemysa, sorry , the 'mixture' screw is just like my PZ30 and PZ27, which I think this is a copy of. It is in the pic at the bowl indention, head facing down.


 
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