09-12-2010, 07:33 PM | #1 |
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Cypress, Texas
Posts: 21
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HELP, getting the ATV to GO!
Gentlemen,
I have the little mutt running (gas still pour from the new carb, no clue why that happens) but now that I have it running, and idling quite nicely most of the time, it will not go. The transmission will not engage no matter how high I rev it. This is what I have tried: 1. I started it while sitting on it, took the brake off, and revved it with no brakes, nothing happened. 2. I started it with me off of it, revved it with no brakes, nothing. 3. I have traced the wires but they get into this giant bundle, I lose sight of them. 4. I know it worked at one time before I put the bike back together, after installing the new carb and battery, because it took off across my leg and I have the keen scar from a tire burn out on my knee. So, from being torn down, to being put back together, what could I have done to make it just sit and rev, with no transmission engagement? is there a safety I am missing somewhere? Oh yeah, it's a Roketa ATV 58 automatic 110cc quad. |
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09-13-2010, 01:48 AM | #2 |
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Sardis, BC, Canada
Posts: 25,977
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My daughter had a 50cc automatic quad that had a clutch adjustment on the right side of the engine. It was in the form of a stud that projected through the outer case, and it was secured with a nut (the stud accepted a tool - Phillips I think).
The symptom on her quad was that when you started it, it would creep forward without any throttle input. I held the stud in place and then backed off the nut (with the engine off). I then loosened the stud a bit, then tightened it until I just felt resistance, then I tightened the nut, IIRC. Does your quad have a nut and stud arrangement like that on the right side engine cover? What you're describing sure sounds like a clutch engagement problem, not an electrical issue. The fuel is pouring out because the float valve isn't sealing. It works on the same principle as a toilet; once the bowl is full, the float rises to the top and the arm of the float pushes on the valve to seat it. The easiest fix is a new Mikuni carb; eBay has tons of them.
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Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer |
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09-13-2010, 07:37 AM | #3 |
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Cypress, Texas
Posts: 21
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Thanks Weldandgrind!
I just bought a new Mikuni, it seals most of the time, just not all the time. The idle adjust screw will stop the gas but only when all the way in. I'm just going to install a petcock and be done with that issue.
As far as the clutch adjustment, I will let you know tonight, seems logical. |
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09-13-2010, 10:57 AM | #4 |
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Cypress, Texas
Posts: 21
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OKee dokee, what next
I found the clutch adjustment, loosened the nut, not letting the screw turn, but then when I turned the screw, it NEVER tightened not one tiny bit, I pushed it in and turned it, still no friction, I backed it off, nothing, seems to be spinning in free air. Could the tensioner have broke when the quad did a burtnout on my leg? seems odd, since you start it with the brake on, but you never know, I will try more ideas out tonight when I get home.
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09-13-2010, 12:03 PM | #5 |
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Sardis, BC, Canada
Posts: 25,977
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I'd be (carefully) removing the clutch cover. You'll want to drain the oil first.
Please take lots of photos and show us what you find.
__________________
Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer |
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09-13-2010, 12:52 PM | #6 |
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: London, Ontario
Posts: 1,097
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The odds are there is some crap getting stuck i nthe needle and seat causing it to pour out, simply remove the fuel bowl and clean out the needle and seat, then make sure you put a fuel filter ont it to keep the crud out and you should be good to go.
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