02-12-2010, 03:13 PM | #1 |
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Montreal, Qc
Posts: 14
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Remote starter
Anyone know how to wire this? I cant find the wire diagram for this remote starter.
From EBAY seller: rose326a Seller said he dont have any wiring instruction, i asked him how i should wire it he say he dont know, i asked a refund he said no refund on any of his product, so now i'm stuck with this crap. Solution found! |
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02-12-2010, 03:48 PM | #2 |
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: London, Ontario
Posts: 1,097
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You just needed to search for it........ it was on page 5 of this forum, there is a nice wiring diagram in there, is that a GIO remote start stop?, it looks a bit different than the ones i have but the wiring should be the same.
http://www.chinariders.net/modules.p...ewtopic&t=7863 |
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02-12-2010, 04:08 PM | #3 | |
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Montreal, Qc
Posts: 14
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Quote:
My color if you look at my pics: Black/white White/black Yellow Red Yellow/red Blue Green Black If you can figure it out let me know. |
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02-12-2010, 05:14 PM | #4 |
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Montreal, Qc
Posts: 14
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The red wire go to the battery
the green wire is ground White black and black white for kill switch. Blue and Yellow to the lights. When i press the start button the black wire got 12v but it doesnt cut until i press the disarm button, so my starter would never stop, not good. yellow/red do nothing, i cant find what hes for. the only wire left are the black and yellow/red so i guess it's for the starter since it's the only 2 wire left. So if anyone know why i cant find any wire who send power for 3 or 4 seconds then cut it for the starter let me know what i did wrong. |
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02-12-2010, 08:10 PM | #5 |
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Montreal, Qc
Posts: 14
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would be like that, but the black wire cant be for starter unless i'm missing somthing because when i press the start button the wire got 12V on it but it never cut, so the starter would turn non-stop.
And the yellow/red i dont know if it really go to the ignition because when i test it i dont have any reaction at all on this wire but it's the only wire left. Wrong diagram (deleted) |
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02-12-2010, 09:41 PM | #6 |
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: London, Ontario
Posts: 1,097
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Well based on that explanation of your white/black and black/white wires that sounds like the STOP wires, that way when you push the start button that delivers power to the CDI until you press the stop button which kills the engine, as seen in the diagram you must cut the wire between the 2 new wires. I agree that you must find the wire that gets 12v for about 2-3 seconds when pressed, that will goto the starter relay.
What are you wiring this starter on ?, not all vehicles are compatible with these units. |
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02-12-2010, 11:35 PM | #7 |
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 817
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If your starter tries to keep turning after you let the start button go, you have a wire that is feeding power to the start relay.
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02-13-2010, 10:18 AM | #8 |
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Montreal, Qc
Posts: 14
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not much help...
It would work if only the seller had sent a diagram with what wire goes where, but i have to find it myself because the seller is a dum* ***. Never buy this unit for your mini atv, buy a real motorcycle alarm it's only 10$ more but you will have complete instructions with it at least. I'll see for the remote starter later i'm tired of all this, everything works except the remote start, the starter wont stop turning until i kill the engine. |
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02-13-2010, 12:30 PM | #9 |
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Montreal, Qc
Posts: 14
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OK got it, misswired 2 wire, now it works.
At least... one working starter for me and one very bad feedback for the seller. here is the diagram for my version of the remote starter. |
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02-13-2010, 02:20 PM | #10 |
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: London, Ontario
Posts: 1,097
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Glad to see you got it working, i guess you should have got the GIO one right off the bat, would have been much easier to hook up.
ps. Still waiting to hear a reply from you about that pic you posted about the exhaust to verify why that pipe is "JUNK" as you called it. |
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02-13-2010, 05:57 PM | #11 | |
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Montreal, Qc
Posts: 14
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Quote:
The one with 2 pieces is better because you can bore the hole, but the welded one have to be cut and welded. For some it's not a big deal, for others with maximum perf on their 110cc this little hole can create a lot of restriction. |
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02-13-2010, 06:30 PM | #12 |
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: London, Ontario
Posts: 1,097
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Yes i know, but you claimed it was "junk" because of the restriction, did you realize for that engine size that hole is a normal size, and by boring it out you would also need a new air filter, bigger carb and jetting to even make it worthwhile. My stock exhaust on my 110cc has the same size hole restriction in the muffler, my guess it would be better to keep the restriction the same than have people that put on the dual exhaust and blow their engines if they do no carb work.
I'd like to see your test results from the stock pipe to the dual exhaust to see what classified it as "junk", looking at a hole that you think looks small and saying the exhaust is junk because of it doesn't prove a thing. Sorry for being this way, but i just hate it when someone calls a product junk with nothing to back it up. |
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02-13-2010, 10:38 PM | #13 | |
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Montreal, Qc
Posts: 14
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Quote:
My engine is a 110cc 3valve with a 24mm mikuni carb and the engine would not go over 6000rpm with this pipe. So it stay classified as JUNK in my opinion. PS: my 125cc dirtbike got a ID of 7/8" and my 140cc 1"ID stock from the factory, it's very very very far from 3/8" ID. |
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02-13-2010, 11:57 PM | #14 |
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: London, Ontario
Posts: 1,097
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OK, we'll leave it at that then, glad to see you got you remote start working.
Maybe you can send that new schematic to the original seller for a small fee, lol. |
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