new qlink xf200!

[Supermotarded]

Hey guys! Just bought a qlink in fair shape for $500! It runs and drives, has a few upgrades like a rear sprocket and a fabbed exhaust i made. I was wondering if anyone could point me in the right direction for carb jetting, and or tunning thr stock to run really rich. Also has anyone swapped hand controls? Mine seem to slip off haha.. So many questions! Im very tall as well and was wondering if anyone has found a rear shock/spring thats stiffer and maybe could raise the ride hight a lot more in the rear? I plan on getting a more dense oil for the fronts since they seem to be soft as a pillow. Any secrets to gain more power or things i should know? Sorry if im that annoying guy!

[Supermotarded]

Also i just finished painting it from its original black and grey scheme! Hope it looks as cool to everyone else as it does to me!

[Megadan]

There really is no end all-be all guide to tuning a carburetor. Too many variables come into play for any of us to say "run this primary, this main, this needle" and it working the best for your bike. If it's too rich, the first question is, where is it too rich at? Too rich at idle? Too rich at WOT? Too rich in the half-throttle range? Those questions will determine which jet to look at first.

If it's just too rich all around, then the best way to do this is to start with the main jet. Put a fresh plug in and find a place you can run at WOT for a decent run and kill the ignition and pull in the clutch at the same time and come to a stop, pull the plug and see what it looks like. Based on the condition of the plug, you can make a judement on what direction to go up or down. If it is just lightly sooty, then a single step down (Say a 110 jet to a 105 jet) will probably be enough.

I just find it rather unusual that this carb would be tuned too rich. Generally all of these honda clone powered bikes come very leanly jetted from the factory.

[culcune]

There are a couple XF/XP 200 guys around here; 2LZ is one that comes to mind--these guys can sort out your carb Nice bike, by the way!

[Ariel Red Hunter]

Originally Posted by Megadan

There really is no end all-be all guide to tuning a carburetor. Too many variables come into play for any of us to say "run this primary, this main, this needle" and it working the best for your bike. If it's too rich, the first question is, where is it too rich at? Too rich at idle? Too rich at WOT? Too rich in the half-throttle range? Those questions will determine which jet to look at first.

If it's just too rich all around, then the best way to do this is to start with the main jet. Put a fresh plug in and find a place you can run at WOT for a decent run and kill the ignition and pull in the clutch at the same time and come to a stop, pull the plug and see what it looks like. Based on the condition of the plug, you can make a judement on what direction to go up or down. If it is just lightly sooty, then a single step down (Say a 110 jet to a 105 jet) will probably be enough.

I just find it rather unusual that this carb would be tuned too rich. Generally all of these honda clone powered bikes come very leanly jetted from the factory.

If it is too rich at all speeds, I wonder if the float level could be too high...ARH

[Megadan]

Originally Posted by Ariel Red Hunter

If it is too rich at all speeds, I wonder if the float level could be too high...ARH

This is an excellent point too. Thanks for catching that.

[humanbeing]

Originally Posted by Ariel Red Hunter

If it is too rich at all speeds...

Dirty air filter (Stock looks as https://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=520275045135 ) also had this

[david3921]

Originally Posted by Megadan

I just find it rather unusual that this carb would be tuned too rich. Generally all of these honda clone powered bikes come very leanly jetted from the factory.

The engines in these bikes are Suzuki based and if the OP is in the U.S. then the bike comes with a CV carb.

Supermotarded, you'll have to remove the bowl to check the size of the jet. It's super easy on these carbs (if it's a CV). Turn off the fuel and either run the bowl dry or drain it. Remove the nut and lock washer on the throttle wheel and pull off the assembly. Loosen the clamps at the airbox and the head and rotate the bottom of the carb toward you. Take off the bowl to access the jet being careful not strip out the screws. Let us know what size it says and where you are located. Different jets are needed at different elevations.

[humanbeing]

Originally Posted by david3921

...OP is in the U.S. then the bike comes with a CV carb...

Mikuni BS28
===
[Repair manual]
Haynes ISBN:9780857337504
English: http://pan.baidu.com/s/1sjqfYlZ | Brazilian Portuguese:http://www.mychinamoto.com/downloads...Portuguese.pdf
[Parts manual]
http://www.puzey.co.za/spares/Puzey%...sCatalogue.pdf

[Supermotarded]

Thanks for all the info guys! Since i posted this i played with the carb slightly and read some tunning info which i found very helpful... Posted here -> ( http://www.factorypro.com/tech_tunin...m_engines.html ) so after reading all this and riding the bike up and down the alley and some good 1-3 WOT rips, it seems to bog or be super flat on power in lower rpm. But it cooks pretty good in high rpm almost to 10,000rpm actually (accidentally achived) so it said. So i think i need to adjust the float bowl to allow more fuel at lower rpm. Also investing in a bigger jet more than likely since it has a 44t rear spricket and k made a custom slip on exhaust and air cleaner which im sure is leaning it out..

On another note i found world of powersports will replace my fork oil with a heavy weight oil for $75 which seems decent considering the pain of diy-ing it in my driveway. I also plan on replacing the rear shock with something more stiff to give me a little bit more seat hight, i am also searching for a seat to replace mine if anyone knows any seats that may fit with modification? (I am 6'7" so im trying not to look goofy on it)..latest pic of the bike! Thanks again!!

[Ariel Red Hunter]

Originally Posted by Supermotarded

Thanks for all the info guys! Since i posted this i played with the carb slightly and read some tunning info which i found very helpful... Posted here -> ( http://www.factorypro.com/tech_tunin...m_engines.html ) so after reading all this and riding the bike up and down the alley and some good 1-3 WOT rips, it seems to bog or be super flat on power in lower rpm. But it cooks pretty good in high rpm almost to 10,000rpm actually (accidentally achived) so it said. So i think i need to adjust the float bowl to allow more fuel at lower rpm. Also investing in a bigger jet more than likely since it has a 44t rear spricket and k made a custom slip on exhaust and air cleaner which im sure is leaning it out..

On another note i found world of powersports will replace my fork oil with a heavy weight oil for $75 which seems decent considering the pain of diy-ing it in my driveway. I also plan on replacing the rear shock with something more stiff to give me a little bit more seat hight, i am also searching for a seat to replace mine if anyone knows any seats that may fit with modification? (I am 6'7" so im trying not to look goofy on it)..latest pic of the bike! Thanks again!!

If it has a pilot jet, I'd put a larger one in there. If your float level was too low, it would be lean all the way up....ARH

[Megadan]

The only trick to tuning CV carbs that makes them a bit different from traditional slide carbs is the introduction of air jet(s) into the mix. Mikuni CV carbs are a little alien to me, but the same basic principles apply. I highly suggest doing some good reading on CV carb tuning, specifically as much as you can on the Mikuni CV carbs, as you can before getting too far into just making adjustments. CV carbs can be a pain to get dialed in sometimes, which is why many people simply switch to a standard slide carb when doing performance builds. They behave very differently under certain operating conditions, like the case with my 4 Keihin CV carbs on my Goldwing with a grand total of 6 jets a piece. Including Primary, Secondary, idle air jet, main air jet, Needle Jet, and pilot fuel jet with a main fuel bypass throw into the mix for fun. These are far more complicated than the Mikuni you have, but they operate on the same basic principles.

[2LZ]

I have the jetting info at home that I run in Q. I'll post it later.

The idle mixture screw points straight down on the top. When you have the carb spun, check its adjustment. Leave the float bowl at it's normal, stock setting. Raising it will only cause flooding, bogging and overflowing on the ground. Picture letting your toilet fill too high. Find the float specs. Usually it's remove bowl, flip the carb upside down and the float should be level with the carb housing.