Rear rotor bolt mush-any known alternatives?

[Roronoa Zoro]

Title says it all.

Anyone know of replacement rotor bolts that will fit, other than stock?

Thank you in advance for whatever useful info you may provide

[Sullybiker]

I would look on the CSC website for the part: They usually list the metric specification which means finding subs is easy.

[Roronoa Zoro]

It's the width and depth of the shoulder as well as head diameter that matter. All their info has in the description on their page is "Screw M8X16"

[Azhule]

http://www.chinariders.net/showpost....1&postcount=10

?

Is this what you are looking for?

[SpudRider]

Originally Posted by Azhule

http://www.chinariders.net/showpost....1&postcount=10

?

Is this what you are looking for?

Yes, the brake rotor bolts for the first generation, 2007 Kawasaki KLR650, are a perfect match for the RX3 rotor bolts.

[jbfla]

Spud, wish you had found them last summer....





Another tip for trying to avoid stripped bolt heads:

Besides using a heat gun to soften the thread locker, use a hex wrench or socket that has the tip squared off.

I used a grinder to square off the crown on the hex socket.

That allows the hex to seat deeper into the socket head.

Even so, when torquing the new bolts, I could feel the socket head on the bolt starting to strip.





jb

[Roronoa Zoro]

Thanks for the cross reference. Much appreciated

[Sullybiker]

Originally Posted by jbfla

Spud, wish you had found them last summer....





Another tip for trying to avoid stripped bolt heads:

Besides using a heat gun to soften the thread locker, use a hex wrench or socket that has the tip squared off.

I used a grinder to square off the crown on the hex socket.

That allows the hex to seat deeper into the socket head.

Even so, when torquing the new bolts, I could feel the socket head on the bolt starting to strip.





jb

That's absolutely my experience with hex heads, but with a twist - for me it was a hex bit set that had the rounded heads that caused me a lot of bother.

I bought a 3/8 drive set from Autozone (Duralast I think) and they were squared off and very hard; they've been very good on caliper pins in particular.

[dpl096]

The rounded crown on some hex head bits have caused the unnecessary rounding out of a lot of heads for folks....really irritating. I've done the same thing...ground the stupid things flat.

[jbfla]

Originally Posted by dpl096

The rounded crown on some hex head bits have caused the unnecessary rounding out of a lot of heads for folks....really irritating. I've done the same thing...ground the stupid things flat.

Exactly.

It would go a long way in solving many maintenance issues if CSC could specify a better quality of bolts, nuts, and screws.

I have replaced all the body panel bolts and screws with stainless steel ones, and a dozen or more bolts on other parts of the RX3.

In 50+ years of doing my own maintenance and repairs on motorcycles, cars, outboard engines, tractors, and lawn equipment, I have never stripped so many bolts on any one vehicle.

jb

[fjmartin]

I just replaced the valve cover bolts on mine today with stainless steel ones, washers and lock washers using anti-sieze. The stock ones has started to round and I had to use an SAE socket on one of them as the metric WAS spinning. It's an old trick my father taught me that works sometimes as you get lucky with the SAE being just a bit tighter in some sizes than a metric equivalent.

[rjmorel]

Originally Posted by fjmartin

I just replaced the valve cover bolts on mine today with stainless steel ones, washers and lock washers using anti-sieze. The stock ones has started to round and I had to use an SAE socket on one of them as the metric WAS spinning. It's an old trick my father taught me that works sometimes as you get lucky with the SAE being just a bit tighter in some sizes than a metric equivalent.

I've also heard of people using a few stripes of sand paper between bolt and wrench to take up the slop and give added grip or coarse valve lapping compound to tighten grip up on warn socket head cap screws. rj

[RC]

I wanted to get confirmation that others have been successful getting them off with a heat gun instead of a torch? If so, how much time did you let it heat on a single bolt?
Here is a pretty cool video doing a comparison of different methods to remove Loctite bolts. The heat gun took 4 mins vs 1 min with a torch. However, the small exposed bolt is definitely a best-case scenario as it gets direct heat, compared to our hub mounts.

I'm debating to buy a butane torch. I'm also having no luck removing my swingarm bearings with the heat gun and hammering down on a 19mm socket.

[pyoungbl]

RC, I use a hand held butane torch. It's easy to control exactly where the heat is going. My heat gun blows out a larger blast of hot air, heating up much more area than I want....and not getting nearly as hot where I really want the heat. With the torch I found it super easy to remove those bolts. I also replaced the OEM rotor bolts with aftermarket ones which seem to be made of much harder metal.

Peter Y.

[Juanro]

About the rotor bolts, a question: are they the same front & rear?

Regards,
Juanro