Spark plugs?

[Mrmazak]

E3 36
Vs
E3 110

I have found the e3.36 recommend few times. And that is an resistor plug if I am not mistaken.
The e3.110 is labeled racing plug and has same threads as the 36, but the 110 is not a resistor plug.

Has any got a comparison on how these two different plugs perform on the cg 250.

[franque]

Don't waste your money, E3 plugs are a scam. Just get an NGK.

[cycleway4]

have to agree...NGK's=less money and best plug on the market

[Mudflap]

Test of E3, NGK, plugs. This channel has lots of useful tests.

[Deckard_Cain]

I've run the standard NGK, iridium NGK, and the E3 plug on my Hawk...

Honestly, they all perform the same to me. Obviously the iridium should last a lot longer, but for $2.50 I like changing my plugs more frequently.

But ya know what, the plug that did feel like an improvement, at least in idle smoothness and ease of starting, was indeed the E3. It also had the brightest spark when tested outside of the bike.

So I run it for now... but keep tons of spare plain jane copper NGK's in my spare parts box too.

My perspective? Don't overthink it. Don't overthink or over-complicate anything on these bikes. Been there, done that.

[Megadan]

Funny thing is, I bet if you took the time to find a plug that was properly indexed, the difference in perceived idle and run quality would likely be reduced.

If you aren't familiar with plug indexing, it kind of went out the door years ago as ignition systems improved in strength. It is proven to make a difference, but it is so small that the practical effect, aka something that can be measured in the real world as making a meaningful difference, is minimal to none. It's one of those things for obsessive gearheads chasing every 1/10th of a horsepower to do.

In short, just run a good quality plug. No spark plug is going to give you the edge in top speed or acceleration in any amount that could even be measured enough to declare one better than the other unless the old plug was just worn out or junk to begin with.

[OneLeggedRider]

They taught us plug indexing in our high performance classes, it's as simple as putting a mark on the external insulator relative to the position of your ground electrode and then using shims if necessary to control which position the ground electrode sits in the combustion chamber. But as Dan mentioned with today's high output ignition systems it doesn't make much if any difference, and let's face it, you're not trying to get down a dragstrip with these bikes.

Don't waste your money on an expensive plug that offers no performance increase. The only time I would recommend that is in a 2-stroke marine application.

[Deckard_Cain]

Originally Posted by Megadan

Funny thing is, I bet if you took the time to find a plug that was properly indexed, the difference in perceived idle and run quality would likely be reduced.

If you aren't familiar with plug indexing, it kind of went out the door years ago as ignition systems improved in strength. It is proven to make a difference, but it is so small that the practical effect, aka something that can be measured in the real world as making a meaningful difference, is minimal to none. It's one of those things for obsessive gearheads chasing every 1/10th of a horsepower to do.

In short, just run a good quality plug. No spark plug is going to give you the edge in top speed or acceleration in any amount that could even be measured enough to declare one better than the other unless the old plug was just worn out or junk to begin with.

Yep!

I remember plug indexing... tried it on a few engines, even performance ones with turbochargers... meh.

[TxTaoRider]

I'm gonna play devil's advocate here for a minute.
For years I've read from "experts" that it doesn't matter if you ignite the mixture with a torch or a spark, as long as its ignited it'll make the same power. But then those same experts would recommend using a high energy ignition and opening the gap to make "a little more power"?

There seems to be some independent tests showing the E3 plugs making additional power particularly in small engines. If I were to make a guess, some or all of it could be contributed not to the of that big ground strap. On small engines that 1/2 cc can raise the compression ratio noticeably, then that big slab of metal could raise the compression enough to make a measurable increase in power.

That's just my thought on the subject.

[Megadan]

Originally Posted by TxTaoRider

For years I've read from "experts" that it doesn't matter if you ignite the mixture with a torch or a spark, as long as its ignited it'll make the same power. But then those same experts would recommend using a high energy ignition and opening the gap to make "a little more power"?

There seems to be some independent tests showing the E3 plugs making additional power particularly in small engines. If I were to make a guess, some or all of it could be contributed not to the of that big ground strap. On small engines that 1/2 cc can raise the compression ratio noticeably, then that big slab of metal could raise the compression enough to make a measurable increase in power.

That's just my thought on the subject.

Not sure about the "experts" but there is plenty of testing/proof out there that a wider plug gap allows for better and more consistent ignition of the air fuel mixture, and a more powerful ignition can jump the wider gap more effectively without spark supression, which is common under higher cylinder pressures - which is why engines with forced induction often run smaller gaps

As far as the E3 thing, {I don't give a shit either way). The difference between an E3 and NGK Iridium gapped at .036 (much wider than Hawk factory spec) on a 229cc single cylinder 2 valve engine is so minimal that even if you could measure it, would make no real world difference, aka fractions of a horsepower.

I do know that there is something about those E3 plugs that like to mess with modern electronic ignition systems on certain vehicles, so they definitely do something different lol.