03-19-2008, 12:34 PM | #1 |
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 59
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Break In?
Can someone give me the run down on the break in period from start to finish? (Oil changes, Speeds, Checks, etc.) Thanks.
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03-19-2008, 02:36 PM | #2 |
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Altamont, Kansas
Posts: 15,103
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I did the hard breakin and it has been running fine.
motoman method. http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm I change the oil after about 100 miles and then 500 and then every 1000 since. Allen
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You meet the nicest people on a Honda Clone. |
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03-20-2008, 02:02 AM | #3 |
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Lawrence, Ks.
Posts: 195
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+1
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03-20-2008, 08:53 AM | #4 |
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Northern Vermont, USA
Posts: 1,271
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Being an air cooled engine, it is very easy to overheat it when brand new. I would NOT use the motoman method on an air cooled engine. Before break-in, that motor is tight and air cooling can't keep up. I'd heat cycle it a few times, then put at least a few hundred miles on before I started hammering on it. If you "motoman" it, it may run just fine, but I guarantee you've taken some life out of the engine and stuff is prematurely worn.
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First Chinabike: 2006 Roketa RSX200E Current Chinabikes: 2023 Titan DLX & 2022 Lifan KP Mini w/ 210cc BRT kit, 22 RWHP! |
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03-21-2008, 10:53 AM | #5 |
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Altamont, Kansas
Posts: 15,103
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I rode it about 5 minutes then shut it down. Then again about 5-10 minutes. Then I rode around normally for about 30 miles and changed the oil.
I wasn't and still not too concerned about long life. If I get 15K miles from it I will be happy. I haven't noticed any problems yet. No smoke at startup or while running. Allen
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You meet the nicest people on a Honda Clone. |
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03-22-2008, 10:14 AM | #6 |
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Denver
Posts: 35
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Motoman break in for me as well. No problems and runs better everyday. Can't see why air cooling is an issue unless you do your break in on a dyno. Of course, I'm only about 400 miles in and don't have enough information to question Red's guarantee of premature engine failure.
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03-23-2008, 02:42 PM | #7 |
In the prep guide on here it says not to use the oil the comes shipped in our bikes it says its only for anti corrosion and not for lubrication can someone please clarify? It looks like people missed that post..
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03-24-2008, 09:27 PM | #8 |
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Denver
Posts: 35
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The manual shipped with my bike, Lifan 5/200gy-5, described the oil shipped with the bike as SAE15W/40SE and not some lesser anti-rust grade goo as referred to in the d/s prep sticky. I checked it and then went ahead and ran it for my hard break in and then drained it out at about 30 miles.
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03-24-2008, 10:17 PM | #9 | |
Quote:
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03-24-2008, 11:53 PM | #10 |
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: 11481 State Route 44 Mantua, Ohio 44255
Posts: 1,112
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Hey guys
One thing you need to realize is that is Eastern graded oil they are talking in the books, not Western graded oil. Just like the gasoline octane that is listed in the books is Eastern grade of gasoline, not Western. They are both different {Eastern & Western Countries}. My suggestion is to use a petroleum based Motorcycle Oil {10w40 or 20w50} depending on where you live and the temperature. An Automotive Oil is not made to lubricate a Wet Clutch or The Transmission.
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