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#1 |
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Hey guys,
I'm hoping someone else has encountered something similar. I'm still a new rider, so pardon any lack of precision or jargon. I'm having issues where I don't think my clutch is fully engaging. When I pull in the clutch and roll the throttle, I still get some push. With my previous (read as "first") bike, engaging the clutch completely cut off any engine power to the wheels. Is this a configuration issue, i.e. tightening or loosening something? Is this potentially a bad part? Is this expected behavior for this bike? It's also remarkably difficult to shift, finding neutral is a pain, and when releasing the throttle and engaging the clutch, it revs down instead of running freely (I'm sure there's a better way to say that). My headlight also died on me last night on the freeway. Fortunately, the bright was working. It was flickering before it died, so I'm thinking it may be a wiring issue instead of bulb issue? Then again, I have no idea what I'm talking about. (EDIT ![]() If you're not familiar with these issues specifically, I would greatly, greatly appreciate any learning materials or direction on how to better diagnose things. My background is in IT, and I have very, very little experience with machines that aren't computers. Thanks!! |
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#2 |
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Sardis, BC, Canada
Posts: 25,977
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Machines are machines. With the right tools and a sense of humour, you can certainly maintain your China bike.
Your clutch just needs a little adjustment. Start with the adjuster at the clutch lever; loosen the large nut that tightens against the perch, and then loosen the entire adjuster a few turns. Whne you pull on the lever, you should have a little freeplay, which shows as a slight gap between the lever and perch before you feel resistance. Right now, your cable is not tight enough, but take care to not tighten it too far. There should always be the gap that I spoke of, not a terribly rigid lever. Please show us pics of your headlight assembly, and we can guide you from there.
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Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer |
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#3 |
That's good to hear. Now, I just need to get tools hah. I'm lucky enough to live walking distance from a hardware shop.
So here's the clutch lever: ![]() Here's a parts photo of the cable... In the parts photo, the round, black rubbery thing on the left is the adjuster? And the nut is the gray ring between the adjuster and the lever assembly? Assuming these are right, I played with it a bit. When tightening it and loosening it, it either wouldn't completely leave the gear (shifting into first would propel the bike even when the clutch was pulled in) or it would be very difficult to actually shift gears. I forget which was tightening and which was loosening. I can go play with it again. Is there anything that should be done on this end of things? ![]() Here's the headlight assembly: ![]() ![]() It actually flickered then turned on when I started her this morning: ![]() This is with the brights on: ![]() I can't discern any difference between the two. The fact that it's flickering still makes me think it's a slightly loose wire. I did find a wiring diagram elsewhere on this site. I saved it to my Drive just in case it disappears. I'm not sure I could relate this diagram to the actual wires in the bike. Is it meant for that, or is it intended to provide just a logical explanation of connections? ![]() Also, it's occasionally been... skipping? I'll be riding and it'll act as if it's shifting - throttle will cut for a second then come back a little stronger. It happened again this morning when I was trying to get her back into neutral. I noticed the little red battery light blink when it happened. Is this something to worry about? Thank you so much for taking an interest!!!! |
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#4 |
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Sardis, BC, Canada
Posts: 25,977
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You nailed it. Pull the rubbery thing back to reveal the adjuster. Keep working at it, and you'll likely resolve it. If you need to back it out almost completely, then we'll move to the other end of the cable.
You should dismantle the headlight enough to remove the bulb. My guess is that the bulb is loose in the socket. Pull the spark plug and tell us what type it is.
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Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer Last edited by Weldangrind; 09-28-2014 at 01:10 AM. |
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#5 |
Woo! Thank you! After experimenting with the adjuster near the lever, I wasn't able to get a result I was happy with. I started playing with the other end, and I found the right spot in no time
![]() Took at look at the headlight assembly... I'll have to completely take off the two front fairings to access it. Not a big deal, but it'll take time. I'll see if I can tackle that today after running errands. How can I tell what type of spark plug it is? I'll probably just take a picture and post. Found this video: Those all sound like the right way to do things? Last edited by TheBeege; 09-27-2014 at 03:25 PM. Reason: Huh, YouTube videos are embedded. Nifty, but blegh, formatting. |
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#6 |
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Yuma, Arizona
Posts: 9,043
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Actually, as far as spark plugs go, one of your own photos in your intro post tell you what kind of spark plug to get. On the right swingarm, there is a sticker which states "Vehicle emission control information Zongshen Inc" and on there it will tell you what kind of plug your bike needs and the gap to make it. Even if the plug looks ok, it couldn't hurt to start with brand new ones. On my bike, it is VERY easy to get to the plug, but be careful pulling on the spark plug 'boot' since if you break something, a Zongshen replacement might not be as easy to find vs. finding a common Honda or Suzuki.
Is this a single cylinder or a twin cylinder? You might need two spark plugs...
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"They say that life's a carousel, spinning fast you got to ride it well..." TGB Delivery Scooter 150 TMEC 200 Enduro--carcass is sadly rotting in the backyard |
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#7 |
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,436
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Single / Big bored (72.5) Yammie clone. SAME NGK D8EA (& compatibles cross ref to that model ) as Sierra.
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#8 | |
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Sardis, BC, Canada
Posts: 25,977
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Quote:
![]() Looking forward to pics of your plug.
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Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer |
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#9 | |
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Yuma, Arizona
Posts: 9,043
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Quote:
If you look at the emissions sticker in his photo, you can almost make out "D8EA" which most of these seem to use.
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"They say that life's a carousel, spinning fast you got to ride it well..." TGB Delivery Scooter 150 TMEC 200 Enduro--carcass is sadly rotting in the backyard |
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#10 |
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Sardis, BC, Canada
Posts: 25,977
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It's essentially the same as Spud's Zong and the TW200, with a slightly larger bore.
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Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer |
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#11 |
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Idaho
Posts: 25,054
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Yes, your GS250 employs a D8EA spark plug, and a TW200 clutch cable, the same as my Zongshen ZS200GY-2 (Sierra).
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Spud "Never argue with an idiot. He will drag you down to his level, and beat you with experience." ![]() 2015 Zongshen ZS250GY-3 (RX3) 2006 Zongshen ZS200GY-2 (Sierra 200) 2005 Honda XR650L 2004 Honda CRF250X 1998 Kawasaki KDX220 Mods made to my Zongshen ZS200GY-2: http://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=6894 |
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#12 | |
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Yuma, Arizona
Posts: 9,043
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Quote:
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"They say that life's a carousel, spinning fast you got to ride it well..." TGB Delivery Scooter 150 TMEC 200 Enduro--carcass is sadly rotting in the backyard |
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#13 |
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Sardis, BC, Canada
Posts: 25,977
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Not a big deal. The cylinder head from the Sierra would be required, to make the exhaust exit the right side of the engine, but that's the only mod required.
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Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer |
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#14 | |
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Idaho
Posts: 25,054
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Quote:
You could bolt the entire ZS172MM engine in the Sierra's frame, but you would have problems with the exhaust header. Personally, I wouldn't want to mess with it. Because the GS250 engine has a larger bore, you can't put the smaller cylinder head of the TW200/Sierra on the ZS172MM engine. ![]()
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Spud "Never argue with an idiot. He will drag you down to his level, and beat you with experience." ![]() 2015 Zongshen ZS250GY-3 (RX3) 2006 Zongshen ZS200GY-2 (Sierra 200) 2005 Honda XR650L 2004 Honda CRF250X 1998 Kawasaki KDX220 Mods made to my Zongshen ZS200GY-2: http://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=6894 |
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#15 | |
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Sardis, BC, Canada
Posts: 25,977
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Quote:
The only real issue that comes into play with the SBC is that the FOE is such that the valves are shrouded with anything less than a 4" bore, but the engine will still run properly. A larger bore in the Zong engine would give the valves even more space. I doubt that the cylinder volume is dissimilar between the two heads. As long as the dowels line up, I can't see a problem.
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Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer |
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Tags |
clutch, newbie, problems, zongshen |
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