rps magician 250 cat removal

[Deryl]

Hey everyone, I was wanting to remove the cat on my magician. I have heard people say they cut their exhaust and remove theirs but I am without welding experience and was wondering if anyone had popped theirs out the old fashioned way. I am WAY more experienced with a hammer and screwdriver than a welder. Not sure if this is a good idea and may have to cut the pipe and weld it anyway. Thinking if I brake only part of it, or brake it loose but can't get it out it will just rattle around and be more of a problem. Thoughts?

[JerryHawk250]

The cat in these bikes aren't like in a truck or car that you can break out. You will have to cut the pipe to get it out. This is what it looks like in the Hawk.

[Weldangrind]

These cats are quite difficult to remove if you chop the pipe in half (ask me how I know). An easier method is to make horizontal cuts (I use an angle grinder with a cut-off disc) to remove a window. It is best to remove more than half of the cylinder, so that the cat can be easily extracted. Once the cat is gutted, the window can be welded back in place. If you use the window method, it would be very easy for some shop with a MIG welder to weld it back in place. It will be far more likely to line up that way. I bet a muffler shop would do that job for cheap.


If you really want to be stealthy, cut the window out of the back side of the pipe, so the front side remains factory fresh. Not that it really matters, since the heat shield covers it anyway.

[Megadan]

Alternatively, there are some aftermarket exhausts to be found on TaoBao for the Magician. Not sure if anybody has ever fitted one.

One full system with removable silencer for $54. http://www.engtaobao.com/item/taobao/564837029890.html

Another maker of the same style as above for $52 with the removable silencer. http://www.engtaobao.com/item/taobao/525223116735.html

A more stock looking one for just shy of $50. http://www.engtaobao.com/item/taobao/560183783720.html

Some goofy under tail exhaust as well, although this one would require a different tail light solution lol. http://www.engtaobao.com/item/taobao/547301211452.html

These are all stainless steel systems, and those bulges in the headers are not cats. After it is all said and done, to your door, it will likely cost closer to $100 due to the shipping.

[Deryl]

Thanks for the advice everyone, I was trying to do this cheap but the options megadan listed for $50 would probably be a better idea and would perform better than removing the cat and 1 baffle.

[Megadan]

Originally Posted by Deryl

Thanks for the advice everyone, I was trying to do this cheap but the options megadan listed for $50 would probably be a better idea and would perform better than removing the cat and 1 baffle.

Removing the cat is where you will see the most gain. The only reason I posted those was to offer an alternative seeing as you don't have a welder. That doesn't mean you couldn't get a local exhaust shop to weld it back up for you for maybe 20 bucks.

That OTOM exhaust looks pretty sweet though. As I said, likely the total cost after all of the shipping involved will likely be more like $100. So keep that in mind.

[Weldangrind]

Deryl, if you are committed to the idea of removing the cat, you have nothing to lose by cutting a window out of the existing pipe and then having it welded back up. As Megadan says, you'll likely get it welded at a local exhaust shop for cheap. Some careful cutting with a cheap 4-1/2" angle grinder and a thin cut-off disc will get the job done.

[Megadan]

Originally Posted by Weldangrind

Deryl, if you are committed to the idea of removing the cat, you have nothing to lose by cutting a window out of the existing pipe and then having it welded back up. As Megadan says, you'll likely get it welded at a local exhaust shop for cheap. Some careful cutting with a cheap 4-1/2" angle grinder and a thin cut-off disc will get the job done.

Yeah, if you are on a budget, then this can be a good route. Unless you have to buy the tools to do the work in the first place. Not that the tools wouldn't then come in handy later mind you, but if we look at it from a 1 use perspective then buying a full system isn't that much more expensive.

The downside to buying the system will be the 3-4 weeks it takes to arrive.

The upside is - stainless steel, and most likely lighter than the stock system. Plus, it looks cool.

[Deryl]

I talked to my cousin who is a pipe fitter and he said he could help me weld it back up. Can't beat free and get some experience working on it myself verses buying something. I like to fix it verses just pay for something. I was also wondering on some replacement pilot jets. I got the wings moto main jet kit and I am going to mod the stock carb to use instead of buying a mikuni for now. For the primary jet I found this set but not sure if it will work on the stock carb?
https://www.ebay.com/i/272513113905?chn=ps&dispItem=1
Anyone here using the stock carb and found some primary's that will work in it?

[Megadan]

If the Magician uses the same carb as the Hawk, then you cannot easily change the pilot jet. You would have to tap the hole for the threads of a real keihin pilot jet in order to make them work. This is the reason so many Hawk owners just switch to the Mikuni carb.

That said, the stock pilot jet on the Hawk, and likely the Magician, carb is already a little on the big side, and will work fine with any upgrades. You may need to uncap the mixture screw and adjust the idle mixture out a bit, but otherwise the slow jet will be fine.

Where you will want to focus on adjusting the most is the needle and the main jet. The needle can be shimmed since it lacks adjustment notches. A pack of needle shims is just a few bucks. https://www.amazon.com/Sudco-Shims-N.../dp/B00T6J9Z7K

Or, you can buy one of the "jet kits" or rebuild kits for the PZ30 which usually comes with an adjustable needle.
Example: https://www.gearbest.com/other-motor...0aAjqtEALw_wcB