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Old 04-04-2018, 08:57 PM   #1
pcast01   pcast01 is offline
 
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Carb in Magician loose on engine seal

I had a huge issue in my Magician today. It died when I came to a stop after I ran it around for a few minutes. I couldn't get it back running without putting the choke back on and even then it wouldn't stay. Turns out the seal on Carb was loose and smoke was coming out of it. I got it back to my house and took a closer look and the nuts were missing off of it?! I need to get the bolts but don't know the exact size. I am guessing 10mm bolt size but am not sure. Anyone know the size? Also since the vibration is most likely the culprit here, should I put loctite on these and most bolts on the magician?


 
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Old 04-04-2018, 10:07 PM   #2
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On the head side or carb flange? Should both be M6x1.00
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Old 04-04-2018, 10:09 PM   #3
pcast01   pcast01 is offline
 
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head side.


 
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Old 04-05-2018, 05:26 AM   #4
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Yeah, so those bolts should be an M6x1.0 metric thread. You can get them at Ace Hardware pretty easy. Toss a dab of blue loctite on the new ones when you install, but don't tighten them more than 15-20ft-lbs.
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Old 04-05-2018, 03:19 PM   #5
pcast01   pcast01 is offline
 
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Originally Posted by Megadan View Post
Yeah, so those bolts should be an M6x1.0 metric thread. You can get them at Ace Hardware pretty easy. Toss a dab of blue loctite on the new ones when you install, but don't tighten them more than 15-20ft-lbs.
Thanks for you help Megadan. I was able to get it back on correctly but now I am still having the issue of not being able to keep the bike running. It starts out strong but then dies, only when I keep using the throttle does it stay running. How can I solve this?


 
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Old 04-05-2018, 03:25 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by pcast01 View Post
Thanks for you help Megadan. I was able to get it back on correctly but now I am still having the issue of not being able to keep the bike running. It starts out strong but then dies, only when I keep using the throttle does it stay running. How can I solve this?
Well, before going into further troubleshooting, let's start with the most common cause of running issues.

Check the valve lash. Set the intake and exhaust to .003"/.004" on a cold engine. You can find how to do this on youtube, just use the Hawk 250 in the search criteria. It uses the same engine, so everything else should be identical.

After trying that, report back and we can move forward.
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Old 04-05-2018, 03:44 PM   #7
pcast01   pcast01 is offline
 
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Originally Posted by Megadan View Post
Well, before going into further troubleshooting, let's start with the most common cause of running issues.

Check the valve lash. Set the intake and exhaust to .003"/.004" on a cold engine. You can find how to do this on youtube, just use the Hawk 250 in the search criteria. It uses the same engine, so everything else should be identical.

After trying that, report back and we can move forward.
I figured I what have to adjust the valves soon anyways so I will check the gaps and change accordingly.

This seems strange to be happening now because besides the bike running lean I have put over 600 miles on it and it would stay running. It does seem like the gas isn't making it to the carb either. I'm not very mechanically inclined but I am just making some observations.


 
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Old 04-05-2018, 04:33 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by pcast01 View Post
I figured I what have to adjust the valves soon anyways so I will check the gaps and change accordingly.

This seems strange to be happening now because besides the bike running lean I have put over 600 miles on it and it would stay running. It does seem like the gas isn't making it to the carb either. I'm not very mechanically inclined but I am just making some observations.
It very well could be another issue, or a combination of issues. I am just suggesting starting with the valve lash because more than half of the time that is the culprit. Followed closely by vacuum leaks. I also brought it up first because you stated you saw smoke from the intake port, which is not normal for a properly seated and sealed intake valve.

As far as fuel not making it to the carb, it could be an issue with the tank vacuum locking, aka the tank is getting negative pressure buildup because the cap is not venting air in like it is supposed to. While not super common, it is a known problem on the Hawks, and could very well be a similar issue with the Magicians. The other possibility is that the float or float valve in the carburetor is stuck, thus cutting off fuel flow to the carb. This would be an easy thing to check for and fix. Try tapping on the carb bowl and body from a couple of different angles/positions, and see if the fuel starts flowing in.
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Old 04-05-2018, 04:36 PM   #9
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and in addition to what MD stated you make have gotten trash in the jet.
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Old 04-05-2018, 05:18 PM   #10
pcast01   pcast01 is offline
 
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Originally Posted by Megadan View Post
It very well could be another issue, or a combination of issues. I am just suggesting starting with the valve lash because more than half of the time that is the culprit. Followed closely by vacuum leaks. I also brought it up first because you stated you saw smoke from the intake port, which is not normal for a properly seated and sealed intake valve.

As far as fuel not making it to the carb, it could be an issue with the tank vacuum locking, aka the tank is getting negative pressure buildup because the cap is not venting air in like it is supposed to. While not super common, it is a known problem on the Hawks, and could very well be a similar issue with the Magicians. The other possibility is that the float or float valve in the carburetor is stuck, thus cutting off fuel flow to the carb. This would be an easy thing to check for and fix. Try tapping on the carb bowl and body from a couple of different angles/positions, and see if the fuel starts flowing in.
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and in addition to what MD stated you make have gotten trash in the jet.
Thanks for explanation. One thing at a time.


 
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Old 04-05-2018, 05:26 PM   #11
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More often than not, running issues tend to be something very simple. It is just a process of elimination. By checking and eliminating the biggest and most common problems as variables it will help in narrowing down the actual issue.

One suggestion, replace the stock fuel line with a clear line. You can pick up some lawn and garden fuel hose at the parts store cheap. It's handy to have for seeing if fuel is actually flowing to the carb.
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Old 04-06-2018, 12:28 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pcast01 View Post
I figured I what have to adjust the valves soon anyways so I will check the gaps and change accordingly.

This seems strange to be happening now because besides the bike running lean I have put over 600 miles on it and it would stay running. It does seem like the gas isn't making it to the carb either. I'm not very mechanically inclined but I am just making some observations.
Our Pastor had a 50cc scooter that he laid down while making a left at an intersection, after which it would not start. I took it home and spent an entire afternoon on it, looking for anything that could have been compromised by an impact. I tested all of the usual suspects, like the kickstand switch, CDI, coil, reg/rec, etc. It turned out to be that the exhaust valve was too tight, and it chose that moment to present itself.
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Old 04-06-2018, 01:41 PM   #13
pcast01   pcast01 is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Weldangrind View Post
Our Pastor had a 50cc scooter that he laid down while making a left at an intersection, after which it would not start. I took it home and spent an entire afternoon on it, looking for anything that could have been compromised by an impact. I tested all of the usual suspects, like the kickstand switch, CDI, coil, reg/rec, etc. It turned out to be that the exhaust valve was too tight, and it chose that moment to present itself.
Thanks for the story. I have been trying to get my bike ready to get inspected so I can finally register it and I am just frustrated. I can look at it now as all of this is teaching me so much about maintaining a bike. I have zero experience in this as this is my first bike. So I am grateful for all who help me out and the lessons I am learning from this. I tried to start motorcycling a few years ago and I crashed a SV650 on a test ride weeks after my MSF course. I was completely in over my head. I have been looking to get back into riding but I was apprehensive and finally decided that I must start slow and steady and get good at riding on this 250 but it also comes with learning a lot of the mechanical aspects.


 
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Old 04-06-2018, 04:04 PM   #14
Megadan   Megadan is offline
 
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Thanks for the story. I have been trying to get my bike ready to get inspected so I can finally register it and I am just frustrated. I can look at it now as all of this is teaching me so much about maintaining a bike. I have zero experience in this as this is my first bike. So I am grateful for all who help me out and the lessons I am learning from this. I tried to start motorcycling a few years ago and I crashed a SV650 on a test ride weeks after my MSF course. I was completely in over my head. I have been looking to get back into riding but I was apprehensive and finally decided that I must start slow and steady and get good at riding on this 250 but it also comes with learning a lot of the mechanical aspects.
Well, you picked the right bike for learning the mechanical side of things - you can't get much simpler and easy to work on. After you wrap your head around it a little bit you will come to realize that most of it is really simple stuff. These are good skills to learn and things to know. It's your butt in the saddle, and when things go wrong it can be a lot more dangerous. That's why I am so overkill with my maintenance and safety checks. After a while it becomes habit.

Plus, once you get these bikes sorted out, they are pretty darn reliable. The only repairs I have really had to do are because my bike has been laid down a couple of times.
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Old 04-07-2018, 10:47 PM   #15
pcast01   pcast01 is offline
 
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I got the valve adjustment done and I also did my oil change. I noticed that i had put the wrong oil in my Magician. I got 20-5w but it was regular motor oil and not SF rated so that's not good. I got the right kind now. I had not changed the oil since I first put oil in. Also I have been noticing that I have an oil leak and it looks like its around the seams where the engine is sealed.

I was able to get the bike started on the first crank with choke on and I have never had that happen. So that's good. I did notice the engine sounds much better already with the adjustment. I wasn't able to get it running consistently in half-choke and then the battery started dying on me because of all the times I have tried to start the engine. So I stopped and put the battery on a charger and I am gonna have to wait till it charges.

Any thoughts on this so far?


 
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