New Boom 2 Vader (BD125-10) Won't Stay Idle

[JCorCA209]

Hello all!

Completely new rider here trying to rid my need of a car and switch to a bike. Never rode before, except for the Training Course that was recommended by the DMV. I felt sager doing so.

Anyways I have this bike 2022 Jiangsu Baidiao BD125-10 that I have fully assembled and ready to start on the rode... or so I thought!!!


https://www.dropbox.com/sh/r68qiyd9k...FEpiawvza?dl=0


I have included a like to my Dropbox with some random pictures and videos that I observed along with how it sounds when started. Not sure what I'm looking for so if you would like a specific look at something I can do my best to add it to the lists.

I did inspect all hoses and found the same crimped ones as others have found but nothing is pinched or crimped as of now. I have fuel in the filter and the carb. The oil was changed like suggested. And I attempted most of the tips I was finding in other threads. But they all had specific problems that were found and is different from my issue. Because of this I am at a loss for what to do now?? The only one I haven't tried yet was adjusting the clutch under the metal cover. I was waiting for this one because I just assumed it was not a clutch issue.

I was able to start it up by manually opening the choke as far as it could directly above the carb. It shuddered a bit at first and stalled. I started it back up and it stalled immediately again. After checking all hoses again and making sure all switches were in the correct positions. I started again with the full choke on the handlebars only and it started to stall. I opened the throttle a little to help hold the idle and it was able to hold for about 10 seconds before stalling again.
I decided to start in first gear at the next start up and was able to ride about 1.5 miles, testing the gears and keeping everything easy. I actually had no issues with 1st gear at all like most people were finding on similar modelsb with it being barely there or giving no power. I was able to get a good start with mine. Then it stalled and I had to pull over for a couple of minutes for it to cool down (it was VERY HOT!!) And smelled like hot metal of course. Once it was able to start again, this time on its own, I rode home testing 2nd and 3rd gear before it stalled again 1/4 mile from my driveway. I let it cool for a minute and it started on its own but I can tell the idle was not going to hold so I gave it some throttle after like 3 seconds and just rode it to the driveway where it died again. This time it was a little smoky (white) beneath the muffler, but stopped fairly quickly. I waited a few hours for it to cool down a lot and tried starting it again but it did not want to on its own so I left it alone for the day.
Tried starting again and it does start but it stalls immediately. I made sure the battery is fully charged up and don't see anything that stands out to me. But I am new to a bike so not sure where else to look other than the suggestions found in similar threads here and on YouTube. The bike does start up but will hold the idle.

I am in California so any thoughts of removing the EVAP system is definitely out of the question.
I have registed it partially only and need to take it to the DMV for inspection before getting plates. But I don't think it's ready for that stage yet.

There are these 2 "forks"/ metal bars underneath the fairing that look like the fairings should attach to with a screw or bolt. However it is not possible to make it fit without forcing too hard. I feared cracking or snapping the body so I did not attempt to do so. There are pictures in the folder as well to kind of show it better.

[Texas Pete]

1. Have you adjusted the idle screw?
2. Do you know that with carburetor equipped motorcycles that you need to hold about 1/8th throttle during and after starting for a few minutes to let it warm up the engine before it can run on its own? It's just the way it is with carburetors.

Try starting the bike with full choke and hold about 1/8th throttle.
After a minute switch to half choke and keep holding throttle.
After a couple minutes try moving it to no choke and keep holding throttle.
Then slowly remove throttle and see if it idles on its own.
It is about this time that you can set the idle screw so that it idles, usually around 1,500 RPM.


As you get used to your specific bike and its motor you'll adjust your timing for all of the above.

[JCorCA209]

Originally Posted by Texas Pete

1. Have you adjusted the idle screw?
2. Do you know that with carburetor equipped motorcycles that you need to hold about 1/8th throttle during and after starting for a few minutes to let it warm up the engine before it can run on its own? It's just the way it is with carburetors.

Try starting the bike with full choke and hold about 1/8th throttle.
After a minute switch to half choke and keep holding throttle.
After a couple minutes try moving it to no choke and keep holding throttle.
Then slowly remove throttle and see if it idles on its own.
It is about this time that you can set the idle screw so that it idles, usually around 1,500 RPM.


As you get used to your specific bike and its motor you'll adjust your timing for all of the above.

I tried this but the bike would not stay in the same rpm level. I was making sure I would barely give the 1/8th throttle only but it would either stall for not enough power or it would shoot from 1000 to 2500 and higher at the slightest turn of the throttle. Less than the suggested 1/8th and it would give too much. It also smells like emissions fumes and has the water droplets coming from the muffler pipe just as in the picture in my Dropbox.

[Texas Pete]

I don’t own that bike and having tried the link I don’t see any pictures of the muffler. There is a bunch of yellow fluid all over various parts of the frame in photos. Gasoline is a hydrocarbon. It makes water and carbon dioxide when combusted so steam or water vapor is normal to see out of vehicle mufflers especially when cold and not fully warmed up. Thick white smoke is not normal and can point to an engine seal or piston rings. The bike has been ridden as per the first post so only you would know if you’ve ridden through any wet areas that may account for the yellow fluid on various frame parts or if they were there out of the crate. And have you been following an engine break in routine or not etc. Take the fluid and rub it between your fingers and smell it, does it smell metallic and tangy like rust. Is it watery or oily. That is not a color of fluid I am familiar with on air cooled engines. What color was the oil when you drained it from the engine. The only thing that comes to mind is oil and condensation or water and rust, or something ridden over while riding. Try cleaning it all off if you can’t immediately pinpoint where it’s coming from and then closely inspect for any new deposits of it to help pinpoint where it might be from.

[JCorCA209]

Originally Posted by Texas Pete

I don’t own that bike and having tried the link I don’t see any pictures of the muffler. There is a bunch of yellow fluid all over various parts of the frame in photos. Gasoline is a hydrocarbon. It makes water and carbon dioxide when combusted so steam or water vapor is normal to see out of vehicle mufflers especially when cold and not fully warmed up. Thick white smoke is not normal and can point to an engine seal or piston rings. The bike has been ridden as per the first post so only you would know if you’ve ridden through any wet areas that may account for the yellow fluid on various frame parts or if they were there out of the crate. And have you been following an engine break in routine or not etc. Take the fluid and rub it between your fingers and smell it, does it smell metallic and tangy like rust. Is it watery or oily. That is not a color of fluid I am familiar with on air cooled engines. What color was the oil when you drained it from the engine. The only thing that comes to mind is oil and condensation or water and rust, or something ridden over while riding. Try cleaning it all off if you can’t immediately pinpoint where it’s coming from and then closely inspect for any new deposits of it to help pinpoint where it might be from.

Ok let me try to answer all questions:

This link coordinates with the pictures/ videos numbered below:
https://linksharing.samsungcloud.com/knkgt6kGm930


1. Video - Shows the droplets of water being sprayed out and the location of where it is coming from. There is no smoke here, I apologize for my confusion but I should not have said "fumes" more of a hot metal / oil smell

2 - 5. Picture - oil draining out - I see metal shavings; this is the 2nd oil change if you include the initial oil change upon delivery

6. Picture - Oil color after draining - Dark colored in my opinion for a bike with only 3.9 miles on it.

7. Picture - The level of oil after change was completed. I included this because it started to bubble as if I had too much in there. It was hard to get a good picture but the fill line is only half way after I added .80 liters.
Stupid question: when checking the oil, does it matter if the bike is straight up vs. Slightly angled on the kick stand? Both show different levels so not sure if one is preferred over the other? Since mine only has a kick stand and NO center stand. Both are still under the fill line so maybe I need to account for any reserves in the canister?

8. Video - tried to start up after oil change per your recommendations on the throttle movement. But made a LOUD NOISE for the first time and scared me
Please identify that issue!!

9. Picture - Current Odometer reading at 3.9 miles only.

10. Picture - Changed oil once I saw it bubbly inside casing. I thought it was TOO DARK for being in there for only about an hour? I drained and refilled to .80liters again per the manuals recommended .80-.85 liters. I had the same bubbling issue. Video from #9 is after the second oil change today.


*** Other info ***

Bike has only ran when the sun was out. Cannot maintain idle so I cannot ride it.
I have been unable to attempt the break-in, however the 3.9 miles on it now we're ridden easy for about 2 miles. Then I went Medium I guess for the rest. I did not go hard out of fear. I want to attempt an easy/medium break-in.
Currently has been raining for over a week and condensation has been noticed on the outside of the bike. Being that it is in a garage at all times so far, how can I combat the condensation from the cold weather? If this is part of my issue?

If there is a specific video that would help please let me know what to record and I will do my best to oblige.

Thanks again for the fast responses.
Sorry I would be faster too but the cold and rain here convinces me to stay inside too easily...

[Texas Pete]

1. Looks like that's the muffler and looks like they've drilled a small hole so that any condensate that starts to flow down the muffler to the exhaust tubing gets blown out rather than pooling up down in the tubing at the lowest point and rusting it out faster. Mufflers are the coldest parts of the exhaust and the last thing to heat up properly to burn off any residual condensation from burning the fuel so if you take long rides and heat up the muffler it should burn off condensate, if you take short rides or don't heat up the muffler then that weep hole seems to be there to help blow out condensate traveling down the exhaust tubing from the muffler.



2-5. with regards to metal shavings, china bikes have the most amount of factory garbage left in the motors after assembly, usually metal flashing, shavings, etc. Just keep changing out the oil after getting the metal into suspension and draining it out and changing in fresh. Royal Enfield brand has the cleanest engines with the least amount of contaminants found in the oil in the motors from the factory, followed by the Japanese brands, then middle to lower end is the European brands and dead last and off the scale are the China brands. I don't own your bike or motor but there will likely be a screen inside the engine that you can trap larger metal particles and you can take that off and empty it of any metal/flush it out and then reinstall it with each oil change.



7. Oil level indicators are read with the bike upright and not leaning over to one side or the other. If you have your oil level in the middle of the sight glass between H and L you are good. You will notice if the bike leans to one side during a turn it will be closer to H and when leaned over the other side in a turn it will be closer to L but it will always be within the acceptable range.


8. First and foremost, always in the background be contacting the place your bought the motorcycle from and also keep them informed of what you are experiencing and making sure they know the same links to the videos, etc. I don't know how long your warranty period is, it could be short like 90 days or so about so don't tally from telling the seller right away. Now it is impossible to tell from just a video but if I was to hazard a guess I would say the clatter to me sounded like the clutch plates snapping into place or something else in the area. The only way to tell where a noise is originating from is to use a stethoscope. Basically mechanics take any large long flat bladed screwdriver and shove the plastic handle against one ear and push the metal tip onto various places on an engine, or transmission and listen for the noise and wherever it sounds the loudest through the stethoscope that is the area where the noise is originating from. You are also starting the bike with the handlebar fully cocked to the left. Unknown is if you have the throttle cable set up correctly so that when you turn the handlebar full left and full right it doesn't change the throttle cable pull on the carburetor. Otherwise turning the handlebar and accelerate you when you don't want to and can be dangerous. The amount of free play in the throttle should stay the same from full left to full right and inbetween, it should not bind or pull harder on the cable at one position or the other. Same with the clutch cable, you don't want it binding or pulling when the handlebars pull full left or right, you want that cable to have the same amount of freeplay through all positions of the handlebar.



10. The engine oil is sloshing around inside the motor, having bubbles after running the engine is normally not an issue. Heat cycles turn oil dark and some additives in some oils will also darken rapidly from oxidization and heat accelerates the oxidization process. What turns oil eventually black is carbon deposits getting into suspension from the engine working and burning the fuel.



I didn't read anything about using the choke or setting idle. I have no idea what carb your bike comes with so I am guessing some sort of PZ clone.


PZ clone photos:


Full choke, use this with a touch of throttle to keep the motor running. Carburetor motors run very slowly when cold and as they warm up the idle speed keeps speeding up, that's just the way they are. You keep the idle set correctly at cold with your hand on the throttle until the engine is running hot enough to have sped up to the correct idle speed for whatever the idle speed screw setting is on the carburetor is set to.




Half choke, you switch to using this after full choke while still keeping the motor running with your hand on the throttle.



No choke, you switch to using this after half choke while still keeping the motor running with your hand on the throttle. After your motor is up to running temperature you can roll off the throttle with your hand and the motor should be running on its own. If it is not and it stops then you need to adjust the idle speed screw.





Idle speed screw, there are no set settings, you turn the screw in clockwise normally to increase the speed of the idle and you screw it out counter clockwise to decrease the speed of the idle. You set this after the motor is up to running temperature.



Air/Fuel mixture adjustment screw. On OEM carbs this usually is hidden behind a plug to make the California Air Resource Board or some other government killjoy happy. After you remove the plug you have access to this screw. It is used in conjunction with the idle speed screw to set the optimum fuel and air mixture rate for idle speeds. Usually these are approximately 2 1/2 turns out (counter clockwise) from turned all the way in (don't jam it hard, its brass and could strip). If you buy after market carburetors these are usually not plugged and easier to access as you don't have to go through the process of removing plugs.