Brand New Templar X Wont Start

DanDLion · 03-26-2023, 07:17 PM

Hi all, new member here!

I recently got a Templar X orange. Seems like a well made bike and good quality, cant wait to ride it. I went through the large Templar X thread on this forum to familiarize myself with common issues, and how best to assemble my bike. I now have the bike fully assembled but cant get it to fire.

I got a new battery, the YTX5L-BS with 80CCA fully charged up. It sounds like its turning over, I verified fuel downstream of the fuel filter, spark plug looked gapped right and I grounded it to head and saw spark when turning it over...

I havent adjusted the valves yet, was hoping to fire it up and get at least 1 tiny little run in first. Could it be the valves?

I havent messed with rejetting of the carb yet either, I have the parts and know I will most likely need to do that soon here to. 1200' elevation.

It just doesnt sound like its igniting at all, just turning over. I mean its a carb'd engine, Air/Fuel/Spark... what thing do I have wrong here?

I also havent dug into the air filter yet, could it be bagged and I am just choking the engine? This would be the easiest fix and make me feel the most dumb

kinda hoping this is it though. Speaking of, what is the best way to access the filter? I dont see a clear path without starting to take more off than I need rn.

Help please!!

P.S. I have either the front of rear brake depressed to get it to crank, I have tried choke, throttle, clutch in vs out, in gear vs neutral, etc. Not so much as a single fire it feels like...

Megadan · 03-26-2023, 07:36 PM

Yes, do the valves now. And then in a few hundred miles, check and set them again. After that you can wait a couple thousand miles.

I'm not sure why people want to put this off so much, it doesn't get much easier other than changing the oil.

Have you visually verified it has spark?

DanDLion · 03-26-2023, 07:43 PM

Thanks Megadan! I will get on the valves ASAP. I agree I needed to do them ASAP was just hoping for 1 short ride first.

Yes visually verified spark, and after posting I realized the spark plug wasn't soaked with fuel or really smelled much like gas at all. Went out to find the fuel hose where it connects to carb decently kinked, fix that but still no luck or any difference in the visual/smell on the spark plug...

WeebleWobble · 03-26-2023, 10:57 PM

I had to give mine some throttle in addition to full choke before it would start. Even after it started, it wouldn't idle on it's own. You will likely need to rejet the carb and either put sealant between the intake boot/cylinder head, or by a gasket. All of those links can be found in the resource thread https://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=32177

Thumper · 03-27-2023, 06:37 AM

You are in the right location for a ride this time of year!

My guess is fuel and maybe valves too tight. But it should at least fire!

At 1200ft, you will need at least a #42 pilot and #120 main. Also ~1mm shim on the needle. Also, make sure the throttle and choke cables are routed with minimal bending, no kinks. Choke should go under the stay, and throttle cable over the stay (there is room between the tank and frame stay). I also lubed both cables with pure silicon spray during assembly.

About 1/8 the throttle and flicker the choke. It should pop to life

tknj99 · 03-27-2023, 07:30 AM

Silly suggestion, but have you confirmed petcock is not in the off/horizontal position?

DanDLion · 03-31-2023, 07:11 PM

It fires up!!!

I went through a lot of different things, but finally pulled the carb out of the 2 boots connected to it (dang is it squeezed in there...), and I noticed the choke when pumped by the handle lever would let fuel in, but with just pulling it once normally didn't seem to do much.

Ok, so it fires now and idles (high) which is a huge relief. But now I could use some more advice before I get it rideable.

It is idling at 5k right now... My first thought was mess with the idle adjustment screw (tight is lower idle right?), but it doesn't seem like the idle screw is really doing much of anything.

Your thoughts on this matter are greatly appreciated!

I am so close to taking a ride, I'm going crazy here

XLsior · 03-31-2023, 07:15 PM

is the carb slide installed correctly?

DanDLion · 03-31-2023, 07:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by XLsior

is the carb slide installed correctly?

Hi XLsior, thanks for the input. Could you help me understand or point me in the right direction on how to check and fix this if this is the issue? I know a bit but not enough right now.

I did unscrew the top where the slide goes in, but left it in and screwed it back up... maybe i screwed that up?

or maybe it wasn't installed correctly?

Thumper · 03-31-2023, 07:21 PM

Your slide in the tower (of the carb) is sticking too high. Verify that the throttle cable is NOT pinched, bent too much, routed badly. The path needs to be SMOOTH, as straight as possible.

This starts at the handlebars. Take off the tank and see that the cable is not binding, no sharp turns, route the cable over the frame stay just above the carb (between the tank and the frame, then down to the carb). The choke cable should go under that right stay for least bends, most smooth path.

I also lubricate those cables with pure silicon spray before installing. The throttle should instantly SNAP back to ZERO when you let it go. Choke should drop right back to zero when you let it go too.

Routed with least resistance also helps them last longer.

DR@G0NR1DR · 04-01-2023, 01:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DanDLion

It fires up!!!

I went through a lot of different things, but finally pulled the carb out of the 2 boots connected to it (dang is it squeezed in there...), and I noticed the choke when pumped by the handle lever would let fuel in, but with just pulling it once normally didn't seem to do much.

Ok, so it fires now and idles (high) which is a huge relief. But now I could use some more advice before I get it rideable.

It is idling at 5k right now... My first thought was mess with the idle adjustment screw (tight is lower idle right?), but it doesn't seem like the idle screw is really doing much of anything.

Your thoughts on this matter are greatly appreciated!

I am so close to taking a ride, I'm going crazy here

I bought the M, last October. They had to send me a new carb, as mine would not fire up either. The idle screw on the stock carb that came installed did not work. After I replaced the carb, it fired right up, and idles just fine.

DanDLion · 04-01-2023, 02:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by thumper

your slide in the tower (of the carb) is sticking too high. Verify that the throttle cable is not pinched, bent too much, routed badly. The path needs to be smooth, as straight as possible.

This starts at the handlebars. Take off the tank and see that the cable is not binding, no sharp turns, route the cable over the frame stay just above the carb (between the tank and the frame, then down to the carb). The choke cable should go under that right stay for least bends, most smooth path.

I also lubricate those cables with pure silicon spray before installing. The throttle should instantly snap back to zero when you let it go. Choke should drop right back to zero when you let it go too.

Routed with least resistance also helps them last longer.

Thanks Thumper, I took the tank off and will reroute the cables today.

I will definitely reroute the cable over the frame stay as you mentioned, and it appears I should reroute it around the clutch cable up at the handlebars (just a bit tight going around it).

Does anything else stand out to you in the photos though?

And while I have the tank off I will do the first valve adjustment.

Thanks for all the help and input so far!

DanDLion · 04-01-2023, 02:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DR@G0NR1DR

I bought the M, last October. They had to send me a new carb, as mine would not fire up either. The idle screw on the stock carb that came installed did not work. After I replaced the carb, it fired right up, and idles just fine.

Thanks, DR@G0NR1DR, its nice to hear the same thing from someone else, kind of thought I was going crazy

I agree with Thumper that a bound up cable is most likely keeping my slide up higher causing the higher idle, and I am probably wrong but I still would have thought the idle screw would have done something, even a little bit...

Since the YouAll seems to be causing me such issues (probably operator error), I purchased a Nimbi carb that should be here today. While I have the tank off I am just going to swap the carbs. I don't like the fact the YouAll requires modifications to access the bowl and jets. Seems like not a big deal for most here, but at this point a better name brand with bolt heads I can easily work with just sounds nicer.

Thumper · 04-01-2023, 03:03 PM

Get the choke cable under that frame stay (not absolutely required, but it is a shorter cable, fits great under the stay.)

Otherwise looking good. There is a real tangle between the speedo/tach and handlebars. The front brake hydraulic cable could be in MANY places, but what a pain in the neck to break that seal loose on the banjo bolt! Only option is to remove and reposition everything else around it!

Mine covers the speedo display on one of the bikes (5 speed or 6 speed, not sure which), but I haven't fixed that!

DanDLion · 04-01-2023, 04:12 PM

ITS ALIVE!!!

(not mad thats the fire!)

Thank you to everyone for your input!

Slide was too high in the tower of the carb and the cables really did not look or feel bound up until I took the tank off, much much better routing over the frame. Thanks Thumper!

When I restarted it after that work the idle was maybe 1.5k fairly steady but would die every now and then with some throttle. Idle'd it up to 2k for now and seems to be gone.

I know I have to rejet at some point and still do the valves, but dangit I want at least 1 little ride in

03-26-2023, 07:36 PM	#2
Megadan Join Date: Apr 2017 Location: Omaha, NE Posts: 8,110	Yes, do the valves now. And then in a few hundred miles, check and set them again. After that you can wait a couple thousand miles. I'm not sure why people want to put this off so much, it doesn't get much easier other than changing the oil. Have you visually verified it has spark? __________________ Hawk Information and Resource guide: http://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=20331 2018 Hawk 250 - Full Mod list here. http://www.chinariders.net/showpost....62&postcount=1 2024 Royal Enfield Shotgun 650 https://chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=34124
	0

03-27-2023, 06:37 AM	#5
Thumper Join Date: Feb 2021 Location: Kansas City Posts: 2,735	You are in the right location for a ride this time of year! My guess is fuel and maybe valves too tight. But it should at least fire! At 1200ft, you will need at least a #42 pilot and #120 main. Also ~1mm shim on the needle. Also, make sure the throttle and choke cables are routed with minimal bending, no kinks. Choke should go under the stay, and throttle cable over the stay (there is room between the tank and frame stay). I also lubed both cables with pure silicon spray during assembly. About 1/8 the throttle and flicker the choke. It should pop to life __________________ No matter where you go, there you are
	0

03-27-2023, 07:30 AM	#6
tknj99 Join Date: Oct 2020 Location: Central VA Posts: 1,302	Silly suggestion, but have you confirmed petcock is not in the off/horizontal position? __________________ 2024 Templar 250 2021 Beta 500 RRS 2018 VStrom 1000 XT Former China Bikes: Tao DBX1, Brozz 250, CSC RX4, Titan DLX, Templar X, Storm DLX 150
	0

03-31-2023, 07:21 PM	#10
Thumper Join Date: Feb 2021 Location: Kansas City Posts: 2,735	Your slide in the tower (of the carb) is sticking too high. Verify that the throttle cable is NOT pinched, bent too much, routed badly. The path needs to be SMOOTH, as straight as possible. This starts at the handlebars. Take off the tank and see that the cable is not binding, no sharp turns, route the cable over the frame stay just above the carb (between the tank and the frame, then down to the carb). The choke cable should go under that right stay for least bends, most smooth path. I also lubricate those cables with pure silicon spray before installing. The throttle should instantly SNAP back to ZERO when you let it go. Choke should drop right back to zero when you let it go too. Routed with least resistance also helps them last longer. __________________ No matter where you go, there you are Last edited by Thumper; 03-31-2023 at 09:20 PM.
	0

04-01-2023, 03:03 PM	#14
Thumper Join Date: Feb 2021 Location: Kansas City Posts: 2,735	Get the choke cable under that frame stay (not absolutely required, but it is a shorter cable, fits great under the stay.) Otherwise looking good. There is a real tangle between the speedo/tach and handlebars. The front brake hydraulic cable could be in MANY places, but what a pain in the neck to break that seal loose on the banjo bolt! Only option is to remove and reposition everything else around it! Mine covers the speedo display on one of the bikes (5 speed or 6 speed, not sure which), but I haven't fixed that! __________________ No matter where you go, there you are
	0

03-26-2023, 07:17 PM	#1
DanDLion Join Date: Mar 2023 Location: Sonoran Desert, AZ Posts: 24	Brand New Templar X Wont Start Hi all, new member here! I recently got a Templar X orange. Seems like a well made bike and good quality, cant wait to ride it. I went through the large Templar X thread on this forum to familiarize myself with common issues, and how best to assemble my bike. I now have the bike fully assembled but cant get it to fire. I got a new battery, the YTX5L-BS with 80CCA fully charged up. It sounds like its turning over, I verified fuel downstream of the fuel filter, spark plug looked gapped right and I grounded it to head and saw spark when turning it over... I havent adjusted the valves yet, was hoping to fire it up and get at least 1 tiny little run in first. Could it be the valves? I havent messed with rejetting of the carb yet either, I have the parts and know I will most likely need to do that soon here to. 1200' elevation. It just doesnt sound like its igniting at all, just turning over. I mean its a carb'd engine, Air/Fuel/Spark... what thing do I have wrong here? I also havent dug into the air filter yet, could it be bagged and I am just choking the engine? This would be the easiest fix and make me feel the most dumb kinda hoping this is it though. Speaking of, what is the best way to access the filter? I dont see a clear path without starting to take more off than I need rn. Help please!! P.S. I have either the front of rear brake depressed to get it to crank, I have tried choke, throttle, clutch in vs out, in gear vs neutral, etc. Not so much as a single fire it feels like...
	0

03-26-2023, 07:43 PM	#3
DanDLion Join Date: Mar 2023 Location: Sonoran Desert, AZ Posts: 24	Thanks Megadan! I will get on the valves ASAP. I agree I needed to do them ASAP was just hoping for 1 short ride first. Yes visually verified spark, and after posting I realized the spark plug wasn't soaked with fuel or really smelled much like gas at all. Went out to find the fuel hose where it connects to carb decently kinked, fix that but still no luck or any difference in the visual/smell on the spark plug...
	0

03-26-2023, 10:57 PM	#4
WeebleWobble Join Date: Feb 2023 Location: Washougal, WA Posts: 47	I had to give mine some throttle in addition to full choke before it would start. Even after it started, it wouldn't idle on it's own. You will likely need to rejet the carb and either put sealant between the intake boot/cylinder head, or by a gasket. All of those links can be found in the resource thread https://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=32177 __________________ Templar X 250 Yamaha XSR900 Kawasaki Brute Force 750 Yamaha TT-R 50
	0

03-31-2023, 07:11 PM	#7
DanDLion Join Date: Mar 2023 Location: Sonoran Desert, AZ Posts: 24	It fires up!!! I went through a lot of different things, but finally pulled the carb out of the 2 boots connected to it (dang is it squeezed in there...), and I noticed the choke when pumped by the handle lever would let fuel in, but with just pulling it once normally didn't seem to do much. Ok, so it fires now and idles (high) which is a huge relief. But now I could use some more advice before I get it rideable. It is idling at 5k right now... My first thought was mess with the idle adjustment screw (tight is lower idle right?), but it doesn't seem like the idle screw is really doing much of anything. Your thoughts on this matter are greatly appreciated! I am so close to taking a ride, I'm going crazy here
	0

03-31-2023, 07:15 PM	#8
XLsior Join Date: Aug 2020 Location: Australia Posts: 1,444	is the carb slide installed correctly?
	0

04-01-2023, 04:12 PM	#15
DanDLion Join Date: Mar 2023 Location: Sonoran Desert, AZ Posts: 24	ITS ALIVE!!! (not mad thats the fire!) Thank you to everyone for your input! Slide was too high in the tower of the carb and the cables really did not look or feel bound up until I took the tank off, much much better routing over the frame. Thanks Thumper! When I restarted it after that work the idle was maybe 1.5k fairly steady but would die every now and then with some throttle. Idle'd it up to 2k for now and seems to be gone. I know I have to rejet at some point and still do the valves, but dangit I want at least 1 little ride in
	1