Icebear 110 carb issues

[miket007]

Well new here...bought my daughter a good used quad that appears to be an Icebear 110. Model on the plate is ATVHL110AA. I am looking for some input on the carb/settings. The quad starts and runs...it has a new carb on it. however there appears to be a choke lever and with it in its full upright position, it will idle but does so rich. in this position it completely bogs and dies if any throttle is given to it. If I move the choke lever to the downward position the idle rpms shoot through the roof....obviously very unsafe.

I do not have a user or parts manual for this little rig...does anyone have any experience or suggestions?

[Kriss103]

When the choke is closed you don't get air from the slide, if it runs rich tighten the mixture screw. Increasing rpm when the choke is opened - you'll have to play with the air screw, unscrew it a bit, so less air - less rpm, and the idling mixture should be fine since you already did it witch choke closed. You can then run it around and check the plug so you know whether you have to adjust the needle or not.

[miket007]

Originally Posted by Kriss103

When the choke is closed you don't get air from the slide, if it runs rich tighten the mixture screw. Increasing rpm when the choke is opened - you'll have to play with the air screw, unscrew it a bit, so less air - less rpm, and the idling mixture should be fine since you already did it witch choke closed. You can then run it around and check the plug so you know whether you have to adjust the needle or not.

Thanks Kriss....figured that might be the case/option. There seems to be only one screw on this carb...

it appears to be this exact carb.

https://www.amazon.com/Carburetor-Ta...bear+110+parts

[miket007]

Here it is.

[Adjuster]

You should have an air/fuel screw and an idle screw. The air/fuel screw may be hidden under a tamper resistant cap. With the choke fully open/off/no choke is this when the engine is racing?

Two possibilities.

The throttle cable is incorrect or not installed correctly and is holding the slide open. This is a likely scenario as you mention someone has already messed with the carb/new carb.

Or the idle is simply set too high and you need to turn the screw out.

With the engine off snap the throttle lever, do you here the slide bottoming out/fully closing in the carb when the throttle is released? It makes a distinct sound when set up properly.

Maybe a 3rd possibility. Any kind of air leak in the carb/manifold connections will cause the engine to run super lean and the rpms to race.


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[Kriss103]

If it's a PZ20 carb, i've found a picture of it and marked the idle/mixture screws in red/blue respectivelly.

http://i.imgur.com/qk26WMT.jpg

Its the type of carbs with mixture screw on the filter side apparently. At least it's easily accessed Check it out and post results, if it's not the mixture on choke and then readjusted idle screw without choke, we'll try to help further.

[miket007]

Originally Posted by Adjuster

You should have an air/fuel screw and an idle screw. The air/fuel screw may be hidden under a tamper resistant cap. With the choke fully open/off/no choke is this when the engine is racing?

Two possibilities.

The throttle cable is incorrect or not installed correctly and is holding the slide open. This is a likely scenario as you mention someone has already messed with the carb/new carb.

Or the idle is simply set too high and you need to turn the screw out.

With the engine off snap the throttle lever, do you here the slide bottoming out/fully closing in the carb when the throttle is released? It makes a distinct sound when set up properly.

Maybe a 3rd possibility. Any kind of air leak in the carb/manifold connections will cause the engine to run super lean and the rpms to race.


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Thank you. The only available adjustment is idle. The only way to get it to idle without a runaway situation is with the choke on but its too rich and dies when given throttle. I pulled the carb and it seems to be a slide problem. Though I checked the the thumb throttle and cable all the way to the slide and all checks out. I checked the cable stop inside the slide to make sure for some reason it wasn't jambed lower in the slide keeping it open...no issue there. The needle is installed correctly in the slide and is not bent or damaged. When I reinstalled the carb I was able to get the slide to drop a little farther....not sure how that happened. However I started it and I still have the same issue. With the choke off and the idle screw backed out all the way, its idling high enough to spin the rear tires on the ground with the front emergency brake on. I checked the position of the slide at rest when on the bike and the front bill of the slide is up about a 1/4". I can't see the back bill of the slider when its on the bike.

The oring seal between the carb and mani is new with carb. After spraying carb cleaner around the car/intake seal, it stumble and died. So I am leaning towards manifold leak.

[miket007]

Pics of carb

[miket007]

I have removed the carb, checked the oring, wiped the mating surface clean and reinstalled using hightemp RTV sealant with the oring.

Lets see if that makes a difference.

[Adjuster]

Your air/fuel screw is right there lower left of the idle screw. It is under that brass anti tamper cap.



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[Bruce's]

As soon as I hear runaway idle on these little bikes ,I think the slide has been put in backwards once again .Hopefully you checked that the slide was able to close before you tore into more of the carb

[miket007]

Originally Posted by Bruce's

As soon as I hear runaway idle on these little bikes ,I think the slide has been put in backwards once again .Hopefully you checked that the slide was able to close before you tore into more of the carb

Yup slide is in correctly. One of the first things I checked.

[FLASHLIGHTBOY]

you will see on the throttle cable an adjust nut.. you can either turn this adjustor ... or better yet to make sure the tjrottle cable is not holding in access fuel ... remove it from the roght controller... take the lid off and have it loose... this will take away any thoughts of a tight cable... you say it stumbles when you spray it... then it is sucking in air at the carb/ pipe mounting... get a new oring.. silicones helps ... but a oring is better... you can drill a SMALL hole in the brass cap and use a Robertson screw driver tip as a easy out to remove the cap..... this will help to adjust air intake.... but not the problem.. I have many times have someone tighten the cable adjustor too much... this holds the throttle body plunger up... causing it to race... but stalling is always the air suction leak,,.. especially when you have sprayed it.. ok.. do that and let us know..

[miket007]

Originally Posted by FLASHLIGHTBOY

you will see on the throttle cable an adjust nut.. you can either turn this adjustor ... or better yet to make sure the tjrottle cable is not holding in access fuel ... remove it from the roght controller... take the lid off and have it loose... this will take away any thoughts of a tight cable... you say it stumbles when you spray it... then it is sucking in air at the carb/ pipe mounting... get a new oring.. silicones helps ... but a oring is better... you can drill a SMALL hole in the brass cap and use a Robertson screw driver tip as a easy out to remove the cap..... this will help to adjust air intake.... but not the problem.. I have many times have someone tighten the cable adjustor too much... this holds the throttle body plunger up... causing it to race... but stalling is always the air suction leak,,.. especially when you have sprayed it.. ok.. do that and let us know..

Well it must still have an intake leak. Same issues....spray carb cleaner directly where the carb mates to the manifold causes it to stumble badly and when sprayed enough, dies. Is there not a physical gasket between these two in addition to the O-Ring?

[miket007]

So here are some pictures of the carb...