Need some help with my bike (X-pro knight dlx 250cc)

erickv215 · Yesterday, 10:34 PM

Hey, I’ve had my X-Pro Knight DLX 250cc for a little over a month, with just about 65 miles on it. I bought it brand new, but I’ve been running into several issues. Just the other day, after filling it up with gas (making sure I closed the fuel line properly), I went to start it, and it wouldn’t idle. I noticed fuel leaking from a flat, spongy filter located under the battery, but not from the fuel overflow line at the bottom.

I tried drying it off and emptied the carb before spraying compressed air into the fuel escape line, which helped the bike idle for a bit, but it still wasn't running smoothly. The bike started burping and would often die out when I revved the throttle. I adjusted the idle screw on the carb, but it didn’t help much. I’m just lost on what to do next.

I’ve heard people suggest upgrading to a Nibbi carb, but I’ve also read that the idle screw on these carbs touches the frame, which could be an issue. I’m not an expert in bikes, but I’m comfortable doing work on them if it’s straightforward and easy to install. What I’m really looking for is a solution that will fix these issues without needing a ton of modifications or fabrications. should i get a pe28mm carb or pe30 or stick to stock.

I just want to get the bike running as well as it should, so I can enjoy it like it’s supposed to. One more thing — my battery keeps dying when I try using the electric start, so I’ve decided to buy an Antigravity ATZ-7 Performance Lithium battery to replace it. But beyond that, I’m unsure what other parts or upgrades I might need to improve the bike’s performance and reliability.

Also, my rear brakes are barely functioning. Even when I slam on them, it takes forever to stop, and the bike just slides. Meanwhile, the front brakes feel strong and firm. This is my first bike, and I know it’s a Chinese model. I’m planning to get a Japanese bike in the spring, but for now, I just want to learn and enjoy riding this one.

It’s frustrating because I’ve barely had time to ride it, and I’m already running into all these issues. I really want to figure out what to upgrade or replace to get my bike running as good as it should, so I can actually enjoy it. Any help or guidance would be really appreciated. Thanks

Mumen Rider · Yesterday, 11:57 PM

The flat spongy filter sounds like your air filter, it should be covered in oil but not gasoline. Did you lay the bike down at some point? Unscrew the gas cap and see if it'll run better, the check valve which is just a ball bearing can get stuck or hung up. I just remove the bearing completely and let it breathe.

The OE fuel filter will bend under the heat of the engine, remove and replace it with a quality filter. Make sure your fuel lines are not kinked.

The rear caliper is a older(early 2000's) KTM Brembo copy, I have one in my garage and a clone. The problem your having is probably due to air in the line or master cylinder. It probably couldn't hurt to make an adjustment so the pedal is level with your peg while you're bleeding that. Did you clean the disk off before riding it? The disc should have had some oil on it.

Batteries on these bikes are tiny, so it's not unrealistic for it to be dead if you have to turn it over a lot to start. Get an SAE battery tinder plug and connected it to the battery for a trickle charger when you're not riding it.

Bruces · Yesterday, 11:58 PM

The float needle is sticking in the carb ,very common issue with carbs ,easy to fix by removing the carb float bowl but often tapping the side of the carb with a screwdriver handle a few times will jar it back into place .
It sounds like you need to properly bleed your brake ,and just guessing adjust the valves ,locktite all the bolts ,properly adjust your spokes ,disassemble and properly grease everything with bearings and bushings ,replace all the fluids and oils etc. etc. etc . .if they didn’t bother to properly set up the brakes they didn’t do the rest correctly either .

erickv215 · Today, 03:30 AM

Do you have any info on the nibbi carb i ordered the nibbi pe 30 but now im hearing i may need an adapter or some sort can anyone lead me to right direction i thought all i needed was nibbi carb and was a direct fit and swal

Mumen Rider · Today, 03:36 AM

Nibbi carb needles have crap jet transitions. If you have a rubber boot and not a flange on your OE carb you should be good to go with the PE30.

Yesterday, 10:34 PM	#1
erickv215 Join Date: Nov 2024 Posts: 2	Need some help with my bike (X-pro knight dlx 250cc) Hey, I’ve had my X-Pro Knight DLX 250cc for a little over a month, with just about 65 miles on it. I bought it brand new, but I’ve been running into several issues. Just the other day, after filling it up with gas (making sure I closed the fuel line properly), I went to start it, and it wouldn’t idle. I noticed fuel leaking from a flat, spongy filter located under the battery, but not from the fuel overflow line at the bottom. I tried drying it off and emptied the carb before spraying compressed air into the fuel escape line, which helped the bike idle for a bit, but it still wasn't running smoothly. The bike started burping and would often die out when I revved the throttle. I adjusted the idle screw on the carb, but it didn’t help much. I’m just lost on what to do next. I’ve heard people suggest upgrading to a Nibbi carb, but I’ve also read that the idle screw on these carbs touches the frame, which could be an issue. I’m not an expert in bikes, but I’m comfortable doing work on them if it’s straightforward and easy to install. What I’m really looking for is a solution that will fix these issues without needing a ton of modifications or fabrications. should i get a pe28mm carb or pe30 or stick to stock. I just want to get the bike running as well as it should, so I can enjoy it like it’s supposed to. One more thing — my battery keeps dying when I try using the electric start, so I’ve decided to buy an Antigravity ATZ-7 Performance Lithium battery to replace it. But beyond that, I’m unsure what other parts or upgrades I might need to improve the bike’s performance and reliability. Also, my rear brakes are barely functioning. Even when I slam on them, it takes forever to stop, and the bike just slides. Meanwhile, the front brakes feel strong and firm. This is my first bike, and I know it’s a Chinese model. I’m planning to get a Japanese bike in the spring, but for now, I just want to learn and enjoy riding this one. It’s frustrating because I’ve barely had time to ride it, and I’m already running into all these issues. I really want to figure out what to upgrade or replace to get my bike running as good as it should, so I can actually enjoy it. Any help or guidance would be really appreciated. Thanks Attached Thumbnails
	0

Yesterday, 11:57 PM	#2
Mumen Rider Join Date: May 2024 Location: Florida Posts: 138	The flat spongy filter sounds like your air filter, it should be covered in oil but not gasoline. Did you lay the bike down at some point? Unscrew the gas cap and see if it'll run better, the check valve which is just a ball bearing can get stuck or hung up. I just remove the bearing completely and let it breathe. The OE fuel filter will bend under the heat of the engine, remove and replace it with a quality filter. Make sure your fuel lines are not kinked. The rear caliper is a older(early 2000's) KTM Brembo copy, I have one in my garage and a clone. The problem your having is probably due to air in the line or master cylinder. It probably couldn't hurt to make an adjustment so the pedal is level with your peg while you're bleeding that. Did you clean the disk off before riding it? The disc should have had some oil on it. Batteries on these bikes are tiny, so it's not unrealistic for it to be dead if you have to turn it over a lot to start. Get an SAE battery tinder plug and connected it to the battery for a trickle charger when you're not riding it.
	1

Yesterday, 11:58 PM	#3
Bruces Join Date: May 2018 Posts: 1,654	The float needle is sticking in the carb ,very common issue with carbs ,easy to fix by removing the carb float bowl but often tapping the side of the carb with a screwdriver handle a few times will jar it back into place . It sounds like you need to properly bleed your brake ,and just guessing adjust the valves ,locktite all the bolts ,properly adjust your spokes ,disassemble and properly grease everything with bearings and bushings ,replace all the fluids and oils etc. etc. etc . .if they didn’t bother to properly set up the brakes they didn’t do the rest correctly either .
	1

Today, 03:30 AM	#4
erickv215 Join Date: Nov 2024 Posts: 2	Do you have any info on the nibbi carb i ordered the nibbi pe 30 but now im hearing i may need an adapter or some sort can anyone lead me to right direction i thought all i needed was nibbi carb and was a direct fit and swal
	0

Today, 03:36 AM	#5
Mumen Rider Join Date: May 2024 Location: Florida Posts: 138	Nibbi carb needles have crap jet transitions. If you have a rubber boot and not a flange on your OE carb you should be good to go with the PE30.
	0