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Old 02-17-2020, 09:20 PM   #1
Spins   Spins is offline
 
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Brake it too me slowly!

Guys, the front brakes on my Brozz are pathetic. Today I cleaned the front rotor again with degreaser and finished with alcohol. The brakes barely slow down the bike.
I tested the front brake going as low as 9 mph indicated. I’m unable to lock the front wheel squeezing the lever as hard as possible. What to do? I had considered to remove the pads and use some sand paper to possibly deglaze the pads. Has anyone purchased any upgraded pads with more bite? It’d be nice to actually be able to stop instead of just moderately slowing down!


 
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Old 02-17-2020, 09:31 PM   #2
JerryHawk250   JerryHawk250 is offline
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Did you bleed the brakes yet? May have some air in the lines.
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Old 02-17-2020, 09:32 PM   #3
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I'd agree with Jerry. Front brakes on my brozz are strong.


 
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Old 02-17-2020, 09:42 PM   #4
BuffaloChinaRider   BuffaloChinaRider is offline
 
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You all beat me to it haha as they both said, try bleeding your brakes, a few years back this happened to one of my china bikes and bleeding the brakes was an instant fix.


 
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Old 02-17-2020, 10:11 PM   #5
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No , I haven’t attempting to bleed the brakes yet. I guess it’s off to auto parts store again. I did change the oil over the weekend. I hit the 100+ mile mark.


 
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Old 02-17-2020, 10:19 PM   #6
JerryHawk250   JerryHawk250 is offline
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I bought a hand pump vacuum brake bleeder from Harbor Freight that work perfect for these bikes.
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Old 02-17-2020, 10:56 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JerryHawk250 View Post
I bought a hand pump vacuum brake bleeder from Harbor Freight that work perfect for these bikes.
I love that store!

Jerry, Is this the one ?
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Old 02-17-2020, 10:58 PM   #8
JerryHawk250   JerryHawk250 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spins View Post
I love that store!

Jerry, Is this the one ?
That's the one.
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Old 02-17-2020, 11:04 PM   #9
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Thanks!!

Already in my cart.


 
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Old 02-18-2020, 01:57 AM   #10
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One, yes, bleed the brakes, and once you feel you have it fully bled and back together, zip tie the brake lever back so it is partially engaged and leave it with the master reservoir as high as it can get for sever hours, tapping on the line and fittings one or two times as it sits like this. The compression of the fluid will reduce the bubble size of any remaining air and help it travel up the system, and the engaged lever will leave the port open to allow air to burp into the reservoir.

As far as the pads go, yes, different pads may help. I upgraded my Hawk from the original pads to a set of sintered pads I found on Taobao and the difference was huge.
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Old 02-18-2020, 06:26 AM   #11
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Thanks for the advise Megadan and everyone else!
I’ll attempt to bleed the brakes after work tonight and report back.


 
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Old 02-18-2020, 07:33 AM   #12
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I forgot all about mentioning that Megadan. The zip tie on the lever trick works great. I just left it on over night. Next day the breaks are good and firm.
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Old 02-18-2020, 12:37 PM   #13
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Two more tips for bleeding brakes. While at it, change the fluid to a decent DOT 3 and ensure that you don't overfill the reservoir.
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Old 02-18-2020, 01:18 PM   #14
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Yes . I was planning on flushing it all out once I open it.


 
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Old 02-18-2020, 07:25 PM   #15
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I flushed all the fluid in my hawk and it helped some but it was not until I hit my rotors with a sanding block and 800 grit sand paper then I pulled the pads and scuffed them up too on a flat surface. It made a big difference. I rode pretty easy on the brakes for 100 miles then when I clamped down they grabbed real good.

I do not know why but the rotors were glazed up. I bought my bike used though.

Note: I am not a mechanic and this may not be the right thing to do. It worked for me though.

Oh +1 for the pun


 
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