DeSoto

[cheesy]

There’s nothing wrong with Lucas Electricals. Why, I have a Lucas Pacemaker and......thud.

[Sport Rider]

....

[cheesy]

Got the kit today. Have the alternator back together and in the car. Have to run the one wire to the ammeter, then hopefully, finished. SOB kept poking me in the eye putting back on the engine. Still can’t figure out why a 48” belt is too short and a 49” is almost too long.

[cheesy]

Success. I think. 6.5 volts at idle. 7.5 at about 1600, which is were I am supposed to be. I had to excite it get voltage output but I am concerned about the ammeter showing a discharge. On the other hand, lights are bright at idle, turn signals flash like they should, even at idle with the lights and radio on. And does it move now. Like a 72 year old broad on bennies.

Choke still doesn’t energize. I need four hands and feet to check that. The unit itself may be bad. Glad I have another. An NOS choke unit is like $300.

I had hoped to get it to a cruise night tonight but after I got back from the short spin, there was a puddle of oil on the garage floor. I suspected I might have a cracked brass elbow on the oil filter return line. I don’t suspect it anymore. NAPA will have two for me after lunch tomorrow.

[wheelbender6]

Originally Posted by cheesy

Choke still doesn’t energize. I need four hands and feet to check that. The unit itself may be bad. Glad I have another. An NOS choke unit is like $300.

I would have probably been willing to rig a manual choke using a bicycle cable in order to make it too the cruise on time. I am not a purist when some roustabout engineering will get me to a cruise event.

[cheesy]

I can pop the hood and manually set the the choke, so it’s not a big deal. I found my spare choke unit today. It tests good with a battery, so at least that went right.

Getting that elbow replaced is going to be a headache. It’s been in there since 1948 and has no desire to come out. I’m hoping it doesn’t have to come out in pieces. That would mean pulling the starter and that puppy is heavy and greasy. If that’s the case, the car may just get parked until spring.

[wheelbender6]

You dont really need a starter. You have a manual transmission, LOL.

[cheesy]

Originally Posted by wheelbender6

You dont really need a starter. You have a manual transmission, LOL.

Nope. Semi automatic with Fluid Drive torque converter. Ain’t push starting that puppy.

[wheelbender6]

Wow. That is one fancy Desoto. I have heard of those trannies, but never seen one.

[cheesy]

The transmission itself is butt simple. Basically a dual range transfer case with two speeds in each range; Low 1&2, High 1&2.

It’s the fluid coupler, clutch, and electrics that make it complicated and very heavy. Apparently, you can push start the car but, like Back to the Future, you need to hit a certain speed. In this case 35 mph versus 88 mph. I think I would rather have a working starter.

[cheesy]

Got bored this afternoon, so started tackling the choke.

Problem #1. Supposed to be a serrated lockwasher between the choke unit and each brass nut. That’s how it grounds the circuit. Nada. Sure shot out some sparks when I powered it up from the battery.

Problem #2. Supposed to be an insulating gasket between the choke unit and the exhaust manifold. What was left of what I removed was made from a Cheerios box.

Problem #3. Choke unit kinda sorta functions when power is put to it now. Found it has a broken return spring. May be able to fix it. Not sure, though.

If I am bored again this weekend, I’ll pull the starter and get the elbow out. Hopefully in one piece.

[cheesy]

In preparation of my vacation, I decided that I wanted the DeSoto driveable. So, back to replacing the cracked fitting. Last time I posted, I needed to drop the starter to access the fitting. I dropped the starter. What an experience. Anybody who says how much easier old cars are to work on never dropped a starter from a Chrysler flat head 6 with the semi auto trans. Only two bolts to get the starter off the bell housing but can't get a socket on either one. Not enough clearance between the bolt head and bendix housing to fit a box end. So it's an open end. I have limited room to swing the wrench. Steering column and shift linkage up top and same shift linkage, along with brake and clutch spindles/linkages and mounting brackets. Lucky I could get 1/16 turn each swing. Anyway, an hour to get the bolts out and move the starter out of the way.

Two minutes to replace the fitting.

I'm at an hour and a half getting the starter back in. I quit when Mrs. C called me for dinner. Finish up tomorrow.

[cheesy]

Success. Sort of.


What a PITA. I'm still at a loss why the amp gauge shows a discharge. I changed nothing as far as polarity is concerned. I have a fancy BETA clamp on digital DC meter and it shows the alternator is charging.
Something crapped out in the radio. I get the same result if the engine is running or not, so it isn't the alternator. I suspect the antenna as I can almost pick up WGN but can't get any low power stations.

I think I found the reason the trans occasionally drops out of low range. Part of the reason was Dad putting in new motor and trans mounts and not readjusting the shift linkage. The other part is that the gearshift bellcrank is totally worn out. There isn't a round hole anywhere on it so can't adjust out the slop. I had considered limping it through the summer then having the bellcrank bored and rebushed, For grins, though, I consulted my handy dandy Mopar Parts book and googled the bellcrank part number. Jeez, an NOS one available an Ebay for less than $50 shipped. Mine.

[Bruces]

I don’t think that car has ever looked better in the pictures you have posted here Cheesy .

[wheelbender6]

Agreed. That is one good looking coupe.