02-18-2021, 12:53 AM | #121 |
Join Date: Aug 2020
Location: Australia
Posts: 1,434
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Key Recieved.
Thanks @tknj99 the 4* timing key has made it 180* around the planet to my mail box.
I would like to get my bike running stock before attempting to install it so I know how it feels running before hand, but really thankful for the opportunity to acquire a key and having the possibility of doing it later down the road. Appreciated. |
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02-18-2021, 10:27 PM | #122 |
Join Date: Aug 2020
Location: Australia
Posts: 1,434
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Squeezing in the Horn
Finding the permanent home for the horn.
Tried upfront under the headlight but to the side of the wire terminal holder box, which made it imbalanced symmetry and kept me from committing to the sore thumb like placement. So decided on the under the tank typical tuck away. Took advantage of the coil bracket mount and used the same fixing point to hold the horn, enough of a tag end on the horn bracket to twist into orientation. I like the subtleness, but enough of a poke around the corner to see it. and transmit its honk unrestricted. No I did not paint the horn diaphragm to colour match it came like that. But I did choose it for that reason. Last edited by XLsior; 02-19-2021 at 01:57 AM. |
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02-19-2021, 04:49 PM | #123 |
Join Date: Aug 2020
Location: Australia
Posts: 1,434
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Hey JerryHawk250, appreciate all the thumbs ups... it's not necessary, but I do appreciate the ongoing motivational boost.
I recall watching 1 of your older YT vids it might not have been specifically regarding the oil cooler, but I noticed you had yours installed side mount, Which is what i would have to do to install a cooler myself as you can see my XL does not have the clearance for the usual front mount due to the fender. Just wondering if you could provide any information or details in regards to the way you affixed the bracket/clamps to the frame? I havn't got a cooler yet, still waiting for the bike to run before paying for additional mods. |
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02-19-2021, 06:00 PM | #124 |
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: PNW
Posts: 984
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Looks like there might be space for an oil cooler between the engine and your front down frame member above the header but then pictures can be deceiving?
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02-19-2021, 06:22 PM | #125 |
Join Date: Aug 2020
Location: Australia
Posts: 1,434
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Yup China Rider 27,
the thought had crossed my mind but, Because I have tip the engine forwards on the bottom rear mount to remove the rocker cover and adjust valves that location is basically a no go zone from a ease of maintenance point of view. I'd like to keep some air space/flow around the cooling fins. The fender is kinda wide so from an efficiency point of view other than the increase in oil capacity I don't think a front mount would do much and just heat soak from the engine. A side mount would receive direct fresh airflow and perhaps counter balance the bikes weight distribution caused by the exhaust system bias. Downside would be the risk of damage to the cooler form less protection. I considered front mount but I am pretty much set on the side mount situation for my personal taste. |
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02-19-2021, 07:50 PM | #126 |
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Marseille, France -> Conakry, Guinea
Posts: 1,481
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I think you might be overthinking it with the oil cooler. These bikes didn't come from the factory with an oil cooler, and the stock motor had higher compression, a bigger cam, and more hp. Unless you're planning on keeping it mostly below 20 km/h, I would imagine it will be plenty cool, unless you're planning on racing it. I would get a cht gauge if you're really worried about it, or an infrared thermometer, but honestly, if it's sufficiently rich, it should be plenty cool. You have to understand that there are people using these motors in Africa to pull a much heavier trike, loaded down with stuff going to market, with a top speed of maybe 50 km/h, and there's still no oil cooler on them. Compared to the average use for a CG motor, this thing will be living an easy life.
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02-19-2021, 08:04 PM | #127 |
Join Date: Aug 2020
Location: Australia
Posts: 1,434
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That's true franque. I have no doubts on the robust capability of the engine.
However I plan to cover Australian distances and deal with Australian summer temps +35*C and stretch out oil change intervals. Also in Africa there are probably many dead bikes for spare parts if their engine does blow up. I like tinkering. I have liquid cool PC with the radiator installed under the floor of the house to keep my room cool (refer to summer temps) I have a catch can on my lawn tractor. Also have intentions of running my 97 Mitsubishi L400 Delica 2.8 TD IDI on filtered waste vegetable cooking oil. Do I need an oil cooler...probaly not, am I going to install 1 anyway probably so. |
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02-19-2021, 08:36 PM | #128 |
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Omaha, NE
Posts: 8,109
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I say it every time people bring up the "you don't need an oil cooler" remarks.
Do you need one? No, not really. As pointed out, they survive quite fine without them in harsh conditions. Does it make a difference? Absolutely, without a single question it does. I have experienced: much much much longer oil life, reduced clutch fade issues, reduced clutch material in the oil (even with my fat ass on the bike and tall road gearing). I don't even live in an extreme heat environment, even though our summers here can top the 100F/38C scales. I will never talk a person out of doing an oil cooler. The CG engine was designed to take abuse, but that doesn't mean it can't benefit from being pampered a bit either.
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02-19-2021, 09:33 PM | #129 |
Join Date: Aug 2020
Location: Australia
Posts: 1,434
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Interesting old timey insight jefffery. Nice one
It might allow enough wiggle room to remove the rocker cover engine mounted, I'll definitely take that onboard for a possible 'to do' job. Think I'll try to get the roadworthy inspection passed and the bike registered before attacking the frame with the grinder again though. |
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02-20-2021, 05:29 AM | #130 |
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Upstate SC
Posts: 129
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XLsior, very nice work. Keep up the great work and postings.
Roy |
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02-20-2021, 04:55 PM | #131 | |||
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Marseille, France -> Conakry, Guinea
Posts: 1,481
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Quote:
Quote:
There's not much of a maintenance culture there, and there is not much in the way of knowhow in terms of "properly" (as a westerner might understand it) repairing things. Though it's not something I've directly witnessed, an example might be, if the chain was thrown, putting a hole in the crankcase, a rope and a rag might be used to keep the oil in, and as it would still leak, the owner would continue to top it up as needed. I've seen wheels with bearings so shot that the wheels were visibly wobbling from side to side a good 8-10cm. On the other hand, they can improvise a way to get just about anything running, like the show "Bush Mechanics", from your country. - For those of you who haven't seen it, it's worth a watch. Quote:
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02-20-2021, 05:23 PM | #132 |
Join Date: Aug 2020
Location: Australia
Posts: 1,434
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Hi franque,
yes I've seen the Bush Mechanics 1 of Australia few indigenous/aboriginal produced TV aired series back in the day. It's a good watch. Indeed the CG engine was developed for a world without maintenance. However in Australia a new replacement engine would be $800 there are just not the volume of stock in Oz to bring prices down to point where spare parts are just around the corner. Oil is cheap engines are expensive. JBweld, wire and hose clamps are a part of any emergency break down kit here in Australia. Some people can afford to be hard on the gear I am not 1 of them. From what research Ive done the rocker cover oil coolers tend to leak and a considered inferior to the screen relocated sump feed CG/CB coolers. I'll probably end up spinning the flappy sander, shaving the frame and polishing the dome as Jeffery suggested at some point. but honestly tipping the engine forwards isn't that big a deal to adjust valve lash. |
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02-20-2021, 06:15 PM | #133 |
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Marseille, France -> Conakry, Guinea
Posts: 1,481
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Regardless, you could get a different valve cover that is lower profile, something like this might work: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32672972781.html?
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02-20-2021, 07:29 PM | #134 |
Join Date: Aug 2020
Location: Australia
Posts: 1,434
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cover ups, but not outs.
Its always good to have options. Is it another $25 I want to throw at the project...not right now. the beveled sides are encouraging so thanks for finding that franque.
Good to know where the oil galley runs in the cover, so to avoid breaching it with the sander. However I think the main issue is the bike frame. I tried buying an CG125 cover gasket to replace the old factory 1 but it appeared to be to small. So just assumed CG125/150 covers were smaller than 200/250 and not interchangable. |
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02-21-2021, 09:04 AM | #135 |
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Marseille, France -> Conakry, Guinea
Posts: 1,481
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It could just be that the rubber shrunk, which can be remedied by dipping the gasket/o-ring in gas, which will cause it to swell. I've never heard of different valve covers for different capacity engines, I think that the thing I linked earlier said CG125/150 because there aren't any CG street/dirt bikes that I know of imported into Europe, ooracing's home market, that come from the factory bigger than a 125.
I think that's because with the graduated licensing system here, you have 50s, 125s, and then 47hp limited (I think like Aus?), and then unlimited. No one here is jumping from a 125 to a 200, or the '250' of many CGs because it isn't a meaningful step up here. There's virtually no 200cc motorcycles of any type here, I think largely because of that. I'll do some further research and see if there are differences in the 200 vs 125. I would think that more likely than not the 125-200 are all the same, while the '250' could be different because it uses larger stud spacing for the bigger bore. No sense in having three different specifications of cylinder heads when only two are necessary. |
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