My Honda XR650L Oil Cooler Project

[SpudRider]

Originally Posted by Weldangrind

Wow! I'm shocked at those temps. A very worthwhile upgrade, indeed.

Thank you, Weld.

I'm very happy to have the constant, digital readout from the TTO temperature gauge. If things get too hot, now I can at least slow down, or stop the bike entirely to let the engine cool down. The oil in the external lines, near the temperature probe, will drop 30 degrees in two minutes after I turn off the engine. This cooler, external oil, significantly reduces the overall oil temperature when it mixes with the rest of the oil upon engine startup.

Spud

[Weldangrind]

Originally Posted by SpudRider

Indeed, I did use a step drill. It worked great! I can't imagine how difficult the job would have been without a step drill; thank you for the excellent advice. Indeed, I wouldn't want to try and cut slots in that plastic, either. Once again, I thank you and Weldangrind for your excellent counsel.

Spud

Happy to contribute. I believe that Doc also said plastic turns to goo when you cut it. At least, that's been my experience. I have a fender to trim soon, and I'm not sure what the best method is.

[Weldangrind]

Originally Posted by SpudRider

Thank you, Weld.

I'm very happy to have the constant, digital readout from the TTO temperature gauge. If things get too hot, now I can at least slow down, or stop the bike entirely to let the engine cool down. The oil in the external lines, near the temperature probe, will drop 30 degrees in two minutes after I turn off the engine. This cooler, external oil, significantly reduces the overall oil temperature when it mixes with the rest of the oil upon engine startup.

Spud

Have you considered a muffin fan on a toggle switch? They're perfect, because they're cheap and they run on 12 volts. You've probably got one in your computer case.

[SpudRider]

Originally Posted by Weldangrind

Have you considered a muffin fan on a toggle switch? They're perfect, because they're cheap and they run on 12 volts. You've probably got one in your computer case.

No, I had not considered a muffin fan. :idea: How big are they? I might be able to install one or two, small muffin fans, on each side of the frame downtube, behind the oil cooler.

[SpudRider]

Originally Posted by Weldangrind

Happy to contribute. I believe that Doc also said plastic turns to goo when you cut it. At least, that's been my experience. I have a fender to trim soon, and I'm not sure what the best method is.

I trimmed an inch off the bottom of my XR650L's front fender after I drilled the air holes. I didn't have any problems trimming the edge off the Honda fender, but I think it would be more difficult trying to cut a lot of slots within the fender.

Spud

[katoranger]

Originally Posted by Weldangrind

Have you considered a muffin fan on a toggle switch? They're perfect, because they're cheap and they run on 12 volts. You've probably got one in your computer case.

Will they tolerate the elements? I am sure a computer repair place will have some cheap used ones. I toss about 10 in the scrap pile.

[FastDoc]

I used one to cool the R/R on my 1998 VRF800 (miss that bike ) and it worked great. I was in a fairly protected area though. VFR's cooked the R/R. $300 for the unti, another $75 for the battery. More if you need a ride...

[Weldangrind]

They won't necessarily last long in the elements, but they can be had for cheap or free. They're available in a wide range of sizes. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Computer_fan

[SpudRider]

My fans would be relatively well protected located under the fuel tank, behind the bike's downtube.

Spud

[SpudRider]

As I said earlier, I suspect the front wheel might hit the oil cooler with full compression of the forks. The Honda guys on another forum are raising an issue regarding this point. This is a valid concern, so I want to provide some additional information. I have installed a lowering link, and raised my forks 1-inch in the triple tree. I don't know how much free sag I have with my current forks. The doctored photograph below shows approximately how much the front wheel can travel before it impacts the oil cooler on my lowered motorcycle.



I think I can raise the oil cooler about an inch, if necessary. I can also trim the rear of the fender so the wheel will not grab it long before it would impact the fender. When I get a chance, I will lift the front wheel and see how much free sag I have in my forks.

Spud

[katoranger]

It may be wise to carry a piece of hose to use if you would need to bypass the cooler while on top of a mountain.

[SpudRider]

I agree. I plan to follow that advice, Allen.

Spud

[SpudRider]

I want to test if the front wheel will actually contact my oil cooler with full fork compression. I am considering lifting the front wheel, and removing the fork caps to fully compress the forks. However, it seems if I remove the fork caps, nothing will stop the fork tubes from compressing until the outer tube hits the lower part of the triple tree. Therefore, I'm not sure this test will give me the information I seek. If the fork cap remains screwed to the damping rod (as planned), will the damping rod still limit fork compression with the fork caps removed? :?:

Spud

[FastDoc]

Simple way to figure it out Spud. :idea:

Put bike on a workstand.

Use a ratcheting tie down or two and symetrically tighten them from the bottom of the fork legs to the handlebars. Continue doing this until the fork bottoms out or contacts the cooler.

You can also do this in your trailer with ratcheting tie downs on the handlebars.

[SpudRider]

Thanks for the tip, Doc. I thought of that method, but I don't have ratcheting tie downs, and I don't want to buy them just for this test. The test would be much easier if I could just pop the fork caps, but I don't even want to go to that trouble if it won't give me the information I seek.

Spud