new hawk 250 issues - Page 7

**JerryHawk250** · 11-09-2017, 07:25 PM

That's what the kick starter is far.

pistolclass · 11-09-2017, 10:18 PM

this illustration helps me. Once I see the intake valve move I know to look for the T:

thehawk · 11-09-2017, 10:36 PM

You all are awesome. Thank you, she is alive. I will run it around tomorrow and get it up to temp and see how she is doing.

thehawk · 12-23-2017, 01:54 AM

I got my new house and got all moved. Now that I have a garage I can start doing some real playing with my bike. I decided to start with the chain guide. I heard it was crooked and should be moved over.
I found a video that shows I could use a small piece of metal to put it in the correct location. Regarding that, I started looking it over and the video shows you should move it to have the higher edge of the rubber going down the middle of the chain, however as I look at my bike, I am wondering if the taller edge of the rubber is not meant to be on the side of the chain and not under the middle. If that's the case, then its not the back of the guide that needs to be moved, but the front.
What did everyone else do with their chain guide?

timcosby · 12-23-2017, 02:07 AM

long as it isnt making the chain rub the tire i wouldnt worry with it. i think its there to keep the chain from rubbing the swingarm more than guiding the chain.

Megadan · 12-23-2017, 02:14 AM

I flipped my front sprocket in order to get my chain straight, and then I simply tweaked it with a big washer on top to hold it in place.

I know other people have simply removed the upper tab from the bolt and used a self tapping screw to mount it where they needed it to go.

It really is there more for protecting the swing arm than it is to guide the chain away from the tire. If you are having an issue with tire contact, then I would suggest checking your chain alignment with the rear wheel aligned.

This little tool is rather handy for checking chain alignment. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...A1TFBK3C7LO58P

This is how I discovered that I had to flip my front sprocket. It's not a very common issue, but sometimes the groove for the sprocket on the counter shaft is machined a little too far inward. I gained this information from another member that ran into the same problem that I had.

thehawk · 01-03-2018, 01:59 PM

Happy New Year! So, I finally got around to taking off the rear wheel so I could look at the chain/sprocket/bearings/etc and greese that swing arm. I found that the rear sprocket is loose. But if you remove the nuts, it gets tight. Odd. I retightened but it just gets loose again. Any ideas on fixing this? Also, the beerings, they do move with finger strength but don't spin. they actually don't move very easy, but do move and are straight. Should they be changed out? also, how do you get that snap ring out?

Megadan · 01-03-2018, 02:03 PM

http://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=19265

Honda sprocket studs and thin wave washers ended up being my solution. Post 32 shows the washers installed. Post 42 lists part numbers.

I have over 1200 miles on this fix, and has yet to get loose or fail.

thehawk · 01-03-2018, 03:32 PM

Megadan, you are awesome. quick question though, what was the reason for changing the studs? can I just put spacers and use the stock ones? or are they cheap and will break?

thehawk · 01-03-2018, 03:51 PM

As for the bearings, my image of good bearings is bearings that spin freely and easily and if you give it a good spin, it would continue spinning for a few seconds on its own. Is this a misconception? The bearings on the bike are not binding, but do not spin freely on their own even with a heafty spin. They will move (with no grinding noise or anything) but If your not putting pressure on them, they aren't moving and they definatly wont spin on their own. Is this ok, or should they be changed?

Megadan · 01-03-2018, 03:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by thehawk

Megadan, you are awesome. quick question though, what was the reason for changing the studs? can I just put spacers and use the stock ones? or are they cheap and will break?

I changed to Honda studs because the pin that goes into the wheel on the stock studs was too small and allowed for too much play. They were an average of 8.9mm diameter with the bushing side being 9.3mm avg. Honda studs are consistently 9.1. It doesnt sound like much, but it makes a huge difference.

Megadan · 01-03-2018, 03:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by thehawk

As for the bearings, my image of good bearings is bearings that spin freely and easily and if you give it a good spin, it would continue spinning for a few seconds on its own. Is this a misconception? The bearings on the bike are not binding, but do not spin freely on their own even with a heafty spin. They will move (with no grinding noise or anything) but If your not putting pressure on them, they aren't moving and they definatly wont spin on their own. Is this ok, or should they be changed?

A good bearing should turn smooth, but you should not be able to make them keep spinning as you describe. If they do, then they have no grease in them and will fail. The reason they dont keep spinning is because of that grease.

thehawk · 01-03-2018, 04:55 PM

Well, looks like I need to order some bolts then from Honda. here's to hoping that Amazon stocks them.

thehawk · 01-03-2018, 04:59 PM

I am thinking that the bearings are good then because they do turn. so on to next order of business while I have the rear tire removed. Someone had mentioned that I should pull the swing arm bolt and grease it with marine grease. Do I just 1.pull out the bolt 2. rub grease over it 3. put it right back in? I do not want to drill a hole in the frame as some have done. do the above sound right? or is this a more difficult task?

thehawk · 01-03-2018, 07:09 PM

6302-2NSE9 NACHI bearing 6302-2NSE seals 6302-2RS bearings 6302 RS Japan

https://www.amazon.com/6302-2NSE9-be...s=6302+bearing

Has anyone tried these bearings? They are $7 each so was thinking about going ahead and changing them. But these say they are 6302-2NSE9 and not 6302 2RS. are they the same?

11-09-2017, 07:25 PM	#91
JerryHawk250 Moderator Join Date: Oct 2016 Location: Houma, La. Posts: 11,591	That's what the kick starter is far. __________________ 2023 Lifan Lycan 250 Chopper 2023 Venom Evader 2022 Lifan KPX250 2020 Kawasaki Vulcan S (Sold) 2004 Honda ST 1300 2016 Black Hawk 250 (sold) Keihin PE30 carb,125 main,38 slow.Pod filter,ported & decked head 10:1 CR,Direct Ignition Coil,15/40Sprockets,NGK DPR8EIX-9,De-Cat,Dual Oil Cooler,Digital Cluster 2016 Cazador180 XL 2014 Coolster150 JerryHawk250.com My YouTube Channel
	1

12-23-2017, 02:07 AM	#95
timcosby Join Date: Nov 2016 Location: robertsdale alabama usa Posts: 1,007	long as it isnt making the chain rub the tire i wouldnt worry with it. i think its there to keep the chain from rubbing the swingarm more than guiding the chain. __________________ 1991 harley heritage softail classic 2016 hawk kaw h1 400 tripple 13' long chopper in progress 2009 johnny pag bar hog 2004 hd electra glide ultra classic shriner edition 1997 harley davidson 1200 sportster 1972 harley davidson amf sx250
	0

12-23-2017, 02:14 AM	#96
Megadan Join Date: Apr 2017 Location: Omaha, NE Posts: 8,064	I flipped my front sprocket in order to get my chain straight, and then I simply tweaked it with a big washer on top to hold it in place. I know other people have simply removed the upper tab from the bolt and used a self tapping screw to mount it where they needed it to go. It really is there more for protecting the swing arm than it is to guide the chain away from the tire. If you are having an issue with tire contact, then I would suggest checking your chain alignment with the rear wheel aligned. This little tool is rather handy for checking chain alignment. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...A1TFBK3C7LO58P This is how I discovered that I had to flip my front sprocket. It's not a very common issue, but sometimes the groove for the sprocket on the counter shaft is machined a little too far inward. I gained this information from another member that ran into the same problem that I had. __________________ Hawk Information and Resource guide: http://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=20331 2018 Hawk 250 - Full Mod list here. http://www.chinariders.net/showpost....62&postcount=1 2024 Royal Enfield Shotgun 650 https://chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=34124
	0

01-03-2018, 02:03 PM	#98
Megadan Join Date: Apr 2017 Location: Omaha, NE Posts: 8,064	http://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=19265 Honda sprocket studs and thin wave washers ended up being my solution. Post 32 shows the washers installed. Post 42 lists part numbers. I have over 1200 miles on this fix, and has yet to get loose or fail. __________________ Hawk Information and Resource guide: http://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=20331 2018 Hawk 250 - Full Mod list here. http://www.chinariders.net/showpost....62&postcount=1 2024 Royal Enfield Shotgun 650 https://chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=34124
	1

11-09-2017, 10:36 PM	#93
thehawk Join Date: Nov 2017 Posts: 62	You all are awesome. Thank you, she is alive. I will run it around tomorrow and get it up to temp and see how she is doing.
	1

12-23-2017, 01:54 AM	#94
thehawk Join Date: Nov 2017 Posts: 62	I got my new house and got all moved. Now that I have a garage I can start doing some real playing with my bike. I decided to start with the chain guide. I heard it was crooked and should be moved over. I found a video that shows I could use a small piece of metal to put it in the correct location. Regarding that, I started looking it over and the video shows you should move it to have the higher edge of the rubber going down the middle of the chain, however as I look at my bike, I am wondering if the taller edge of the rubber is not meant to be on the side of the chain and not under the middle. If that's the case, then its not the back of the guide that needs to be moved, but the front. What did everyone else do with their chain guide?
	0

01-03-2018, 01:59 PM	#97
thehawk Join Date: Nov 2017 Posts: 62	Happy New Year! So, I finally got around to taking off the rear wheel so I could look at the chain/sprocket/bearings/etc and greese that swing arm. I found that the rear sprocket is loose. But if you remove the nuts, it gets tight. Odd. I retightened but it just gets loose again. Any ideas on fixing this? Also, the beerings, they do move with finger strength but don't spin. they actually don't move very easy, but do move and are straight. Should they be changed out? also, how do you get that snap ring out?
	0

01-03-2018, 03:32 PM	#99
thehawk Join Date: Nov 2017 Posts: 62	Megadan, you are awesome. quick question though, what was the reason for changing the studs? can I just put spacers and use the stock ones? or are they cheap and will break?
	0

01-03-2018, 03:51 PM	#100
thehawk Join Date: Nov 2017 Posts: 62	As for the bearings, my image of good bearings is bearings that spin freely and easily and if you give it a good spin, it would continue spinning for a few seconds on its own. Is this a misconception? The bearings on the bike are not binding, but do not spin freely on their own even with a heafty spin. They will move (with no grinding noise or anything) but If your not putting pressure on them, they aren't moving and they definatly wont spin on their own. Is this ok, or should they be changed?
	0

01-03-2018, 04:55 PM	#103
thehawk Join Date: Nov 2017 Posts: 62	Well, looks like I need to order some bolts then from Honda. here's to hoping that Amazon stocks them.
	0

01-03-2018, 04:59 PM	#104
thehawk Join Date: Nov 2017 Posts: 62	I am thinking that the bearings are good then because they do turn. so on to next order of business while I have the rear tire removed. Someone had mentioned that I should pull the swing arm bolt and grease it with marine grease. Do I just 1.pull out the bolt 2. rub grease over it 3. put it right back in? I do not want to drill a hole in the frame as some have done. do the above sound right? or is this a more difficult task?
	0

01-03-2018, 07:09 PM	#105
thehawk Join Date: Nov 2017 Posts: 62	6302-2NSE9 NACHI bearing 6302-2NSE seals 6302-2RS bearings 6302 RS Japan https://www.amazon.com/6302-2NSE9-be...s=6302+bearing Has anyone tried these bearings? They are $7 each so was thinking about going ahead and changing them. But these say they are 6302-2NSE9 and not 6302 2RS. are they the same?
	0