New Steed in the Stable - 1977 TS185

[Weldangrind]

Well, I got the bike together enough to go for a victory ride on the weekend. It's not done to my liking, but the weather prevents me from finishing it right now. To paraphrase my good friend Spud, I don't have the time to do it right, but I'll find the time to do it twice.

I want to sand down the tank and fill the dents, and I want to paint the tank and side panel. While I could probably work with the fiberglass and bondo in the cold (due to catalystic reactions), there's no way I could paint. I'm also planning on removing the seat cover, de-rusting the pan and stitching it together with new metal. I haven't figure out the tach yet, but I don't need idiot light to ride the bike. I want to buy some replacement signal lights, but that'll have to wait until after Christmas.

I temporarily mounted some scooter signals and a scooter taillight on the bike, and I welded the taillight / plate mount to the rear grab bar. The mount was originally bolted to the grab bar, but the tabs were broken. I also welded the broken tank mount back onto the frame.

The hold down clips for the headlight are long gone, so I cleaned the inside of the headlight bezel and applied a bead of clear RTV as an adhesive. The headlight sits where it should now.

The rats nest of wiring was a total pain. I managed to bundle and tie the wires behind the headlight, and I learned how to route the throttle, clutch and front brake cables. I also lubed 'em. The return throttle cable is broken, so I removed it. The throttle works just fine with only a pull cable, since the return spring is very strong. I soaked the seat lock and steering lock in Gibbs penetrant, and they work reasonably well now; at least I can lock the steering when the bike is unattended.

I cut and installed the new chain, and it's very smooth. This one is a DID, and it was a few bucks more than an RK. Time will tell if the cost difference is worth it.

I installed a new gasket behind the injector pump, then I primed it with new synthetic oil. Hard to tell if it smokes, because it was quite cold out when I fired it. I'm sure it won't smoke as bad as it did.

The signal flasher still doesn't work, even with the engine running. I'm going to take the flasher apart again and see if I can install a stiffer return spring. If not, I'll find a new 6v flasher. The carb still isn't quite right, and I suspect that it's too lean. I'm gonna try playing with the air screw as a first step. The clutch doesn't immediately engage, and that was a symptom before I took the bike apart. I've since installed new clutch discs and new sprcokets, so I know the remaining problem is the linkage. I can push it back by hand, but it won't quite go on its own. Perhaps a new cable is in order.

Despite all of that, it sure was satisfying to ride it.

[FastDoc]

Glad you've got it mostly sorted! Sounds like a lot of work but time well spent. I know how that goes, believe me!

Do you have a garage? Have you considered a diesel (or kerosene or heating oil or Jet A. It will run on anything but gasoline) powered heater like I have on my shop?

[Weldangrind]

I have an enclosed oil filled heater, but my shop needs a little more insulation. I don't want to use anything that requires actual combustion, because my shop is attached, and it's right below my daughter's bedroom. I'm very careful about fumes.

[FastDoc]

Wise.

I think about that with my diesel heater, but it never triggers the CO monitor, and I usually have some venting and use it sparingly.

[SpudRider]

Congratulations, Brother Weld! I'm glad you got to take the bike for a test ride. I know what you mean about the cold weather. :( I finished an engine top end rebuild of my XR650L in sub-freezing weather, and it was not fun. :roll: Did I mention I hate winter? :evil:

Spud

[Weldangrind]

I was raised in Stew's neck of the woods, so I'm no stranger to cold weather. In fact, where I live now is nothing compared to Northern Alberta. I don't mind dressing appropriately and working on the bike, but painting and so on is out.

One thing I've learned is to wear nitrile gloves in the cold; they act like a wetsuit. If I'm working outside, I wear nitrile gloves under my winter gloves. You do what you need to move forward in the frozen tundra.

[FastDoc]

This time of year I have to keep reminding myself of the Word:

Psalm 118:24 This is the day which the LORD has made; Let us rejoice and be glad in it.

[SpudRider]

Thanks for the tip regarding the nitrile gloves, Weld. I bet the nitrile gloves would help keep one's hands warm under riding gloves as well.

Spud

[Weldangrind]

Originally Posted by FastDoc

This time of year I have to keep reminding myself of the Word:

Psalm 118:24 This is the day which the LORD has made; Let us rejoice and be glad in it.

Indeed. I might not like the weather at a given moment, but I need to bear in mind that there's a reason for it. All I can do is make the best of it.

[Weldangrind]

Originally Posted by SpudRider

Thanks for the tip regarding the nitrile gloves, Weld. I bet the nitrile gloves would help keep one's hands warm under riding gloves as well.

Spud

That has been my very experience. For best results, I put the nitrile gloves on about 10 minutes before I slip my riding gloves on and go outside. That trick doesn't work very well if your hands are already cold.

[FastDoc]

My 'trick' is that you have to start warm to stay warm. Keep your riding clothes and helmet inside the house not the garage. Whenever I stop I remove my gloves and place them somewhere on the engine but off the exhaust.

Sometimes I'll work out or just exercise before leaving to get some body heat up. Not enough to sweat just get warm.

In very cold weather I'll sit for 5 minutes or so, usually less, in front of my diesel heater in the garage with my coats open to soak up the heat. Again, stop short of sweating but get nice and warm.

If I do this, and use the electric gloves or vest, I am warm enough on the dirt bike down to temps in the teens (F) for an hour or two. Enough for a good ride.

Longer if it's sunny (wear black), maybe less if its foggy or moist.

On the streetbike I can ride indefinetly on the Gold Wing due to its heaters and wind protection. Less so on the KLX on the road due to no heaters or windshield.

[FastDoc]

For The Dirt Rat 2 and the BSA which do not have electrical systems amenable to the use of electric clothing I'm considering rigging up a spare medium size sealed and nonvented motorcycle battery to operate the clothes.

I'll tie it to the back of the seat or rig a fannypack somehow and just make it a total loss system and recharge it at the end of the ride. With about 50 watts total draw I suppose it will provide heat for several hours.

I have a new battery for a Sportster I don't have any need for that was given to me.

[katoranger]

Doc, UPC batteries may work well for your plan. I use them in the power wheels.

They are sealed and cheap.

[MICRider]

Originally Posted by Weldangrind

That has been my very experience. For best results, I put the nitrile gloves on about 10 minutes before I slip my riding gloves on and go outside. That trick doesn't work very well if your hands are already cold.

Thanks for the tip Weld, I'm going to have to try that! Might even work well at work (and they have cases of nitrile gloves there!)

[Weldangrind]

I found fleece balaclavas at Princess for around $6.00 each, so I bought one for me and one for Son of Weldangrind. I tried mine today, and it was great at around 5 degrees Celcius. Canadian Tire also has fleece balaclavas for a little more, but they have a much longer neck and a drawstring (like a hoody).

I went for another ride today, and I'm experiencing some carb trouble. It will idle ok once warmed up, but anything under 1/2 throttle sputters badly. It really wakes up and screams after 1/2 throttle, which tells me that the jet needle is uncovering the jet a more appropriate amount (IMHO). I'm using an open element filter, so I closed the air screw about 1/2 turn to compensate.

Looking for guidance here, because most of my tuning experience has been with four strokes. Would you move the jet needle clip down one groove to see if it needs more fuel, or would you mess with float height? I believe that float height is more critical in two strokes, but I'm not sure. I definitely don't want to make more than one change at a time, so that I can properly quantify the difference.