New Hawk, new adventures.

[Megadan]

Thank you guys. I did consider drilling a series of half inch holes in some sort of pattern to try and let some air through. I just don't want to weaken the plastic too much and make it flimsy. Even just a few holes would likely make a good difference. The fender I was looking at has slots similar to that Q link one, but the tail end is a little shorter. It's only about $20, so not a huge investment.

[2LZ]

Originally Posted by Megadan

Thank you guys. I did consider drilling a series of half inch holes in some sort of pattern to try and let some air through. I just don't want to weaken the plastic too much and make it flimsy. Even just a few holes would likely make a good difference. The fender I was looking at has slots similar to that Q link one, but the tail end is a little shorter. It's only about $20, so not a huge investment.

May be worth a look. The slots on Q's fender are "thicker" along the ridges, probably for strength.

[dpl096]

Originally Posted by 2LZ

Drill away! As you can see in this pic, Q comes with a vented fender for cooling.

Harbor Freight lift ?

[Megadan]

So a few adventures underway.

Last night I decided to tear into the bike and do a bunch of stuff at once.

First order of business was to install my new front rotor. While I am at it I installed the brake master cylinder along with the sintered pads and got that bled. Not much choice with the pads. The rotor ate away the inside pad enough to see the difference in wear between the two. I am going to change out the rear pads to match later today. Maybe the brakes will have a nice strong bite now.

I also got around to installing my skid plate, but the center stand is now too short to be of any practical use. I have to stick an 3/4 inch thick board under the legs in order for it to function. Further proof that my shock lifted the bike a little. I am going to leave the center stand mounts in place though because it is easy to slap on and quite handy when working on the bike.

Got the PWK30 installed, trying to sort out the jetting.

Halfway through the process of installing the hydraulic clutch. Got the clutch master mounted and I am trying to work out the best routing for the line. A part of me wishes I would have gone for the 1100mm hose, but I should be able to make the 1200 work just fine.

Since I had everything apart I also decided to relocate my aux light switch to the left side of the bars. Just wasn't easy to use on the right side and I would accidentally hit my kill switch sometimes. I also slightly re-routed my front brake line and throttle cable, as well as rotated my throttle housing 180 to the top to reduce the bend angle on the line. Now I have nothing blocking my gauges or my ignition switch.

Hopefully I can get it all buttoned up and take it for a rip snort later today. The first day it hasn't rained in almost a week.

[JerryHawk250]

Looks like you got a good bit done. I had a center stand about 3/4" longer but ended up cutting it down and putting it on my bike. It's probably a combo of the rear shock and front fork not having as much sag as stock. I can always make another one and send it to you whenever I find the time to make another batch of skid plates and center stands. Like you said though it does make it easier to work on when messing with the front wheel and lubing chain.
Curious to see how the hydraulic clutch works out.

[Megadan]

So sitrep.

Hydraulic clutch:
The Good: It does work.
The Bad: The adjustment range is TINY - I had to remove the rear most adjustment nut to get it close enough, then had to adjust the little nut on the end of the rod that goes through the clevis a million times to get it where the clutch would disengage when pulled in and not slip with let out.
The ugly: Even with the adjustment fairly close, I can tell the clutch was not fully engaging until the bike got up to temp, and even then it never felt right. The fluid also was filled with particulates and looked like grey swamp water after just one 5 minute ride. Either the seals or the bore is being eaten alive. I will be converting back to cable tomorrow.
Final thoughts. Don't bother. The cable actually has a lighter pull, likely due to the clutch slave or master destroying itself. Once I have them off I will dismantle and see which is the culprit. I suspect the slave cylinder.

PWK30 carb install:
The Good: ...
The bad: I hacked the nibbi intake in the name of science. Doesn't work. The angle is just not quite right and it hits the frame worse than before in a different place.
The Ugly: Pretty sure I got a defective carb. I installed the 35 pilot jet and the surging continued, but between the dips it showed signs of being too lean. I confirmed this when going for a ride around my neighborhood and got bouts of hesitation at light throttle.

I removed the carb immediately after letting it start to surge again and found the intake pooled with fuel as well as the carb itself. I then completely tore the carb apart, checked every component, cleaned the #$%^ out of it, put new seals on every part I could, set the float height intentionally low along with the needle in the first notch and tried to let it idle. Same result. Somewhere/somehow fuel is being drawn up through the carb at idle, and I can also hear the throttle slide clacking away with each intake pulse.

Suffice it to say I installed my PZ30B and threw everything into a box to never be seen again. At this point I am considering trying a PE30 Nibbi carburetor. Sure, it's a round slide, but all of the adjustments are on the correct side of the bike and I can use all of my current jets I bought for the PWK.

[JerryHawk250]

So I can scratch Hydraulic clutch off the list.

Definitely a bad carb. I took my carb straight out the box and hooked everything up and she fired right up and ran damn near perfect. Only after I swapped the main and pilot jet that I had to move the needle clip down one notch and adjust the idle mixture.

Good luck on the next experiment.

[Megadan]

Originally Posted by JerryHawk250

So I can scratch Hydraulic clutch off the list.

Definitely a bad carb. I took my carb straight out the box and hooked everything up and she fired right up and ran damn near perfect. Only after I swapped the main and pilot jet that I had to move the needle clip down one notch and adjust the idle mixture.

Good luck on the next experiment.

It has to be a flaw with an air passage. It only draws excessive fuel when the throttle is closed and there is a lot of vacuum. It also had a strange flat spot around 3/4 throttle and the power jet never pulled fuel up from the bowl. If being free revved it would sometimes blow soot from the muffler, and others would come out clean.

I have a Nibbi PE30MM "High performance" carb on order. A bit more expensive than the cheapie Half round slides, but it also comes with a great warranty and the Nibbi carbs have a good reputation. The idle mixture screw and idle speed being on the right side will also mean I can try to run one of the other intakes I have.

[JerryHawk250]

Good choice. I had looked at that carb. From what I remember it's a full 30mm bore all the way through just like the PWK30.

[Azhule]

Were did you find the PE30 version ? I can only find the 26, 28, and 34 versions for sale currently (but I only checked the 3 main places I know of )

[JerryHawk250]

Originally Posted by Azhule

Were did you find the PE30 version ? I can only find the 26, 28, and 34 versions for sale currently (but I only checked the 3 main places I know of )

It's available on Amazon and Ebay. https://www.amazon.com/NIBBI-Replace...-1-spons&psc=1

[Azhule]

Originally Posted by JerryHawk250

It's available on Amazon and Ebay. https://www.amazon.com/NIBBI-Replace...-1-spons&psc=1

I looked at that one too but didn't scroll down to the "Technical Details" to see it was the PE30 ... might need to drink some more Yerba Mate to wake the brain up a little more

[Megadan]

Yep, and Amazon is the cheapest place I have found them, even before the free Prime shipping which made it even cheaper. The main jet changes will not be quite as easy as the PWK, but it's a fair trade to have a proper bowl drain screw that won't spew fuel all over the place. Plus, all of my current jets will work on the PE, so that saves me time and money.

In regards to the hydraulic clutch. The clutch master cylinder was the culprit for the debris. The piston was chewing into the bore, likely due to the seals being cheap and soft. It's strange to me that the brake master is perfectly fine and the clutch master is shit. The slave was in great shape, although it's seals were also soft and a bit deformed. I have a feeling they would have failed within a few hundred miles of use.

Short of a Magura kit for a CRF230 and the cable bracket for said CRF230, which would be expensive as hell ($300+), I don't honestly think there is a viable hydro setup for these bikes. Even if I used an OEM Honda clutch master like that from a VFR800, which I used on my Goldwing, the slave cylinder would always be the potential weak point.

[2LZ]

Originally Posted by dpl096

Harbor Freight lift ?

Whoops! Just found this. Yep! HFT lift. Been great so far. Has no problems jacking up the Victory. It laughs at the CB's. Best money I spent so far. I hate rolling around on the ground anymore.

[dpl096]

Originally Posted by 2LZ

Whoops! Just found this. Yep! HFT lift. Been great so far. Has no problems jacking up the Victory. It laughs at the CB's. Best money I spent so far. I hate rolling around on the ground anymore.

I've got the identical lift.....I'm toying with the air powered hydraulic lift mod for it using the one from HFT ...I agree...money well spent .... I would love to fab some wings for it to accommodate my 4wheeler and UTV.