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Old 02-14-2014, 07:45 AM   #91
katoranger   katoranger is offline
 
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Send it to my insurance.
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Old 02-14-2014, 10:42 AM   #92
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those triton engines are very good. bout only problems i heard of is the plug issue and oil pick up getting clogged if oil isn't changed regularly..

my neighbor runs his own auto repair shop and fixes triton plugs all the time. he says one of two things happen. either the plug blows out and takes coil pack out with it, or plug breaks off in head while trying to remove it. he has 2 special tools to repair both scenarios and never pulls the head.

my nephew just had a plug blow out of his truck (5.4 triton) @200,000 miles. he said he simply screwed a new plug in and replaced coil pack and was fine. i don't get how a plug can blow out and not damage the threads but whatever.. but.... my nephew traded that truck in for a brand new 13 f-150 XL!! lol...


 
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Old 02-14-2014, 10:57 AM   #93
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I don't get how a plug can blow out and not damage the threads...
Me neither. Is that a tapered seat vs. gasket seat issue? Are the heads iron or aluminum? Is anti-seize spec'd by Ford? It sounds like the plugs are simply walking out, rather than blowing out.
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Old 02-14-2014, 11:13 AM   #94
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Mine magically unscrewed, although my 'Ford' was really a Mazda. I don't think it's a brand specific phenomena.

The GT's head was aluminum, and it was a gasket plug, not tapered. No antisieze.

FWIW...
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Old 02-14-2014, 12:07 PM   #95
tpar1220   tpar1220 is offline
 
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i dont know what type of plug they use. every one i had got sold when it was time to change plugs!

but they are aluminum heads. my current truck is a 97 f-350 with 7.3 diesel, so spark plugs won't be an issue. however... $4.09 fuel is!

had a co worker come pulling up at work recently with his expedition making a hell of a rackit. his 5.4 blew the plug out and took threads with it. he had local ford stealer do the repair. no idea what it cost... but surely wasn't cheap. his truck has 180,000 miles. and... he has an exhaust manifold ticking, which means removing it and replacing gasket. but he is afraid of trying to remove manifold bolts as they will most likely break off and that will mean pulling head. so... that lil tick isn't that bad after all.

thats really the only thing i don't like about the newer vehicles, the aluminum block/head engines don't like letting their fasteners go after a few years. and i loved the 300 inline 6 cylinder which they replaced with a pos 4.2.... no thanks.


 
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Old 02-14-2014, 12:42 PM   #96
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The broken manifold studs is a common problem too. On the trucks they can be done by going through the wheel well. Sounds like they actually come out pretty easily.

The newer triton engines have the problem of the plugs breaking off in the head, the older ones like mine blow the plugs. I think what usually happens is the plug walks out due to not being torqued and then rechecked regularly.

I only snugged it since I didn't have a torque wrench handy. Also I reused the coil. The mount is broken, but it sits right on top the plug.

After doing the research I am not too concerned about plugs and manifolds. If I have to repair plugs I think the best thing to do is remove the fuel rail for more access.
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Old 02-14-2014, 12:43 PM   #97
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I didn't use any anti sieze.
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Old 02-14-2014, 12:53 PM   #98
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'He has an exhaust manifold ticking, which means removing it and replacing gasket.'

I wonder about this with my Ranger.

It has a 'valve tap' when cold that goes away 100% when warm. I sometimes wonder if it's not an exhaust issue.

It seems a common issue on V6 OHV Rangers, and everyone on the forums acknowledges its harmless but I wonder what it is...
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Old 02-14-2014, 01:00 PM   #99
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You may have a broken stud on a manifold. Ii think that my 2.9L ranger had a broken stud.
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Old 02-14-2014, 01:05 PM   #100
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The manifolds are not easily accessible, especially the passenger side. The A/C stuff is in the way. The driver's side is no bargain either.

I debate bringing it to the mechanic to replace the gaskets, +/- pushrods and rockers, but figure it's just a harmless noise that goes away when warm.

Still, it bugs me quite a bit!
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Old 02-14-2014, 01:22 PM   #101
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is it a high mileage engine? could be just lifters are worn and bleeding down. when it runs a bit lifter builds pressure and quiets down. maybe try a heavier oil n see if that helps. either way... prolly not a big deal.

a mechanics stethascope (i am sure i spelled that wrong) could help you pinpoint the tick.


 
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Old 02-14-2014, 01:41 PM   #102
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Can lifters be replaced with the motor in the truck and the heads on?

It's low mileage. 107,000 miles in 22 years.
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Old 02-14-2014, 06:23 PM   #103
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Tomorrow I am going to pull all the seats and carpet out for a cleaning. Also try to fix the passenger door handle.
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Old 02-15-2014, 12:23 AM   #104
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Can lifters be replaced with the motor in the truck and the heads on?

It's low mileage. 107,000 miles in 22 years.

i am not sure which engine you have but if it's a pushrod engine.... yes you can swap em without pullin engine or heads. you will have to remove intake manifold and valve covers though. and remove rocker arms/pushrods.


 
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Old 02-15-2014, 01:03 AM   #105
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is it a high mileage engine? could be just lifters are worn and bleeding down. when it runs a bit lifter builds pressure and quiets down. maybe try a heavier oil n see if that helps. either way... prolly not a big deal.

a mechanics stethascope (i am sure i spelled that wrong) could help you pinpoint the tick.
Exactly what I was thinking.

I'd leave it alone, but you could remove the intake, rockers and pushrods to access the lifters. If you choose to go that route, specific break-in oil is required to establish the lifter to cam relationship. If you fail to use the correct oil, you'll wipe out the cam.

That said, the cam and lifters could be replaced as a system for a reasonable dollar, but that's even more work.
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