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Old 01-14-2011, 12:28 AM   #91
Jim   Jim is offline
 
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That works too... Just brainstorming I don't know that I'll be connecting and disconnecting mine, I'll have to see how it holds out. It hasn't been on the beast since I brought it home, due to the battery tray being in the removed plastic body panels. It was way low on water though, it may be in need of replacement but we'll see how it goes once everything is back together.
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Old 01-14-2011, 12:59 AM   #92
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Mike, this is what I was thinking of:

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Old 01-14-2011, 01:13 AM   #93
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why didnt i think of that, i use one that came with my battery maintainer so i can charge the battery with out removing it from the quad..
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Old 01-14-2011, 01:15 AM   #94
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That was going to be my next comment.
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Old 01-14-2011, 03:33 AM   #95
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Maybe I'll go by the yamaha dealer and find some 307-22123-00 bushings for the swingarm tomorrow. And then take the old one off and see what I need to do with the new one (thanks).

I should also look for the jets and figure out what size bearings and seals I need for the rear axle I suppose.

Would you guys recommend any air filter that I don't need to oil?
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Old 01-14-2011, 03:35 AM   #96
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hmmm if you dont want to oil then get any pod style air filter off ebay, aslong as it will fit on the end of the carb it will work.. you can get a decent one for about 10 shipped on ebay
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Old 01-14-2011, 11:12 AM   #97
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I'd never ride in dirty / dusty conditions without an oiled filter. The spray oil I use is really easy to apply, and I use Castrol Super Clean when it's time to service the filter.

The bearing and seal part numbers are here: http://chinariders.net/modules.php?n...wtopic&t=10680 I bought mine (and TurboT's) at Precise Bearing on Townline.

Clearbrook Yamaha will have the jets (or can get them) as well as the bushings.

Let us know how the swingarm works for you. It would be a good time to plate the top of it, using a Miller 180. I have some light steel plate that would be perfect for that, and it would prevent your swingarm from breaking like the original one did.
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Old 01-14-2011, 11:29 AM   #98
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X2 on an oiled filter. You could get by with a screen filter on the street but it would be dissaster in dusty conditions.


 
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Old 01-14-2011, 01:10 PM   #99
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Thanks guys, that's why I asked I've never used an oiled filter on anything (except a piece of crap mustang I had for a couple of days that kept pumping oil up into the air filter), but I have no real atv experience, and I left the stock air boxes on the lifans. How long are they good for before needing a service?

Weld, I saw the bearing part number in the topic, but not the seal, I may have missed it though... I sort of skimmed through 40 pages of atv topics last night :wink: Funny all the topics that caught my eye to add to the sticky were beast related I guess I'll just take the seal measurements with me.

As far as jets go (if I had thought to bring them home with me last time), I would take them in, but I'm going to get a 110 and 25, I will ask for VM28/486 Series Pilot Jet and Mikuni N100.604 Series Main Jet according to the parts number topic. And a UP4182AST uni filter. Should I bother installing those jets yet though with out and modifications to the exhaust?

When you say plate the swing arm, I assume you mean welding a solid plate in covering the top length (like sheeting a framed wall with osb)? Hmm, that would sure sturdy it up wouldn't it. Haven't noticed that mod done before.
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Old 01-14-2011, 04:11 PM   #100
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odds are those jets are going to run the engine to rich in stock form.. for being stock id go with like a 102.5 main and maybe a size larger on the pilot instead of 2 sizes larger with the 25 pilot jet
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Old 01-14-2011, 09:40 PM   #101
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Well I intend to deal with the exhaust... It's on the list. The uni filter is ordered.

I went to clearbrook yamaha, I wound up buying a helmet ($50 fly helmet), and that's all. I ordered a uni filter (~$10) and bushings (~$20). He said he had no fuel line for me or fuel valve and suggested I try 3d cycle.

I got the seals and bearings from precise bearing, I think approx $35.

I checked the shocks they are both completely empty. I added some washers and a couple new bolts to the mounts (one need to be cut off due to screwed up threads). My dad welded the spacers we made into the wheel so now it fits the studs properly.

Pulled off the swingarm and punched out the crappy bushings. Is there metal on the outside of them or just the inside metal. The inside metal part basically fell out, then we scraped out the plastic crap and the spacer pipe. It doesn't look like there is anything left to come out except a few left over pieces of plastic. I don't see any step up, it may step down in the middle slightly, but the outside does not look like it's a separate piece.

Lordco didn't have have anything really, he could piece together a fuel valve but I'm going to try and find a non ubilt version. I did buy a hook there for something else.

Maybe I'll stop by 3d cycle tomorrow.
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Old 01-14-2011, 11:41 PM   #102
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you can get basic fuel line or the really good fuel line that has the blue pvc inscert into the black nylon rubber hose from any auto parts store.
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Old 01-14-2011, 11:52 PM   #103
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I wouldn't hesistate in running the 110 / 25 combo, especially at this time of year. You'll be using a Uni, and the stock exhaust isn't that restrictive.

I'm guessing that you solved the seal question. The answer was in the Beast rear axle service thread; 8 or 10mm will be fine. They're only sorta shielding the bearings from water. The grease inside the hub will be the real saviour. Did you buy the same sealed bearings that I did?

The stock bushings are comprised of an outside tube, an inside tube and crappy elastomeric material in between. If you don't get the outer sleeves out, the new bushings won't go in. BTW, throw the new bushings in the freezer before you try to install them.

This type of valve would be fine, and it's commonly found on riding lawnmowers:

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Old 01-15-2011, 12:25 AM   #104
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Yeah I asked the Lordco guy if he had stuff for lawnmowers but he said no :roll:

The seals they gave me are 7mm... That's the closest he had. I got the same bearings.

It really doesn't look like there is an outer tube in there, I know there should be, and that's what I was expecting, but scraping all the grease and crud away from the outside of the frame it looks like one solid piece. I guess I'll have another look over the weekend, but I couldn't see any separate piece there. It definitely makes sense though and is what I was expecting. I just couldn't see it. They told me I could expect the new bushings and my uni filter on Tues, so I'll play the waiting game.

Edit:
The seals were $5 each and the bearings $12. Apparently the fly helmet is reg $120, was on for $50. The bushings were $10 each. And looking at my receipt now, it appears he forgot to order my uni filter. :?


PS there is some steel out back, I got a few of the smaller pieces but some of it remains in quite large crate shaped pieces.
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Old 01-15-2011, 01:05 AM   #105
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It's a good source for steel, especially after they close on Saturday.

The 7mm seals will be fine.

I might have a spare lawnmower valve if you'd like. If you want a proper fuel valve like anthonyfa18's, just ask the nice man at Clearbrook to check the catalogue for you.

He might have ordered the Uni but didn't make you pay for it. You could always call and ask tomorrow.
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