Templar X 250

[Texas Pete]

Originally Posted by NCtemplar250

A couple questions:

Did anyone else have problems with the throttle sticking wide open when trying to decelerate? This happened to me today and almost dumped my bike into the ditch. I think I can fix it by taping the throttle cable in place so it doesn't move when I decelerate the throttle (causing it to accelerate unexpectedly).

Also, does anyone know which direction of the petcock is normal open, closed, and reserve? The instruction manual is worthless for helping me figure this one out.

Throttle does not stick. Unless you have binding happening with the throttle cable. Do you have the free play set and did you have the same free play at full handlebar turn both directions?

Petcock is pick a lobe on the fuel tank to drain first. Once it’s empty switch to the other side to drain the last of the fuel in that lobe of the fuel tank.

[Texas Pete]

Originally Posted by Hap

Got my new Oring chain and 42 tooth sprocket installed today. Took it out for a test drive and I’m really liking the higher gearing of the 42 tooth sprocket. And the new Oring chain is much more quiet than the original. $60 well spent on these two items.

Looking good Hap and my fuel economy shot up after switching mine though I'm two smaller than yours. Much much better for street riding. That super thick white grease they ship with my RK o-ring chain sure lasts, mine is still covered in it. I’m at 180 on the OD and climbing through break in. Already starting to feel smoother, that or I’m just getting better at riding the Templar. With the new sprocket and chain I’m getting around 119 or more miles before the carburetor starts to complain and having to switch tank lobes. I’m guessing at 70 mpg which would calculate to about 1.7 gallons used with about half a gallon left. But I haven’t done a full tank drain test or measured refill to get a more accurate picture at the increased fuel economy.

@Thumper I am running the JT sprocket and it’s black which is actually in the part number. Don’t have the exact number top of mind but I likely posted the part number for it in this thread or at least one of the Templar threads. My chain however is the RK racing o-ring chain same as yours. Edit: in case future readers get broken web link JT Sprockets JTR210.42 42T Steel Rear Sprocket , black for Hap. Mine is JT Sprockets JTR210.40 40T Steel Rear Sprocket , black.

[NCtemplar250]

Originally Posted by Texas Pete

Throttle does not stick. Unless you have binding happening with the throttle cable. Do you have the free play set and did you have the same free play at full handlebar turn both directions?

Petcock is pick a lobe on the fuel tank to drain first. Once it’s empty switch to the other side to drain the last of the fuel in that lobe of the fuel tank.

Well, respectfully, my throttle was definitely stuck. I twisted it back to decelerate, and it did nothing and kept reving high. If that's not sticking, then I don't know what I should call it. My throttle cable does not bind. I think I know how to fix it--I was just wondering if anyone else had this problem.

Thanks for the info on the petcock! That makes sense.

[Thumper]

Originally Posted by NCtemplar250

Well, respectfully, my throttle was definitely stuck. I twisted it back to decelerate, and it did nothing and kept reving high. If that's not sticking, then I don't know what I should call it. My throttle cable does not bind. I think I know how to fix it--I was just wondering if anyone else had this problem.

Thanks for the info on the petcock! That makes sense.

Check the routing of the throttle cable just above the carb. Mine was routed below the thick frame stay with the choke cable. I removed the tank and completely rerouted it for no sharp bends from the roller up on the throttle twist all the way to the slide on the carb. You can also spray some pure silicon lube into the cable while you have it off. See how I rerouted it above the thick side frame stay in this photo? This really made a difference. It opens easy and closes smoothly and instantly now.

If you think this is happening at the twist grip assembly, you'll have to troubleshoot it there.

[tknj99]

With regard to the petcock i think its very odd.. it sounds like it may indeed pull from one side of the tank until drained and then pull from the other until it also gets low and then when you flip the petcock its pulling from a lower level tube on one of the sides.. in any case the reserve is definitely small, i only got like 5 or so miles before i stalled on the road

[Thumper]

Originally Posted by tknj99

With regard to the petcock i think its very odd.. it sounds like it may indeed pull from one side of the tank until drained and then pull from the other until it also gets low and then when you flip the petcock its pulling from a lower level tube on one of the sides.. in any case the reserve is definitely small, i only got like 5 or so miles before i stalled on the road

Yup, that's the way it works. R or R ! I can get more than 10 miles when I switch. I don't know which is which, but I run it with the tab pointing down so that the thing is pointing to the upper R, then switch it over to the other lobe when it begins to cut out, so it points to the other R. I guess R is for "run".

There is a two wire connector under the tank from the wiring harness that is probably a viable sender connector to the instrument panel, but unfortunately, there is no hardware in the tank for fuel gauge.

[tknj99]

I do the same, the arrow pointing to the upper R for normal riding and then flip opposite for reserve. That is the normal procedure for carb'd bikes.. whether or not it makes a difference here i doubt it.. its funny though, it was opposite on my previous Titan 250 so it probably varies between China bikes i guess.

[Thumper]

It is probably possible to get a compatible fuel sender and mount it on the inner wall of the tank. I wish I had a sender sitting around to test that two wire connector.

[Texas Pete]

Originally Posted by NCtemplar250

Well, respectfully, my throttle was definitely stuck. I twisted it back to decelerate, and it did nothing and kept reving high. If that's not sticking, then I don't know what I should call it. My throttle cable does not bind. I think I know how to fix it--I was just wondering if anyone else had this problem.

Thanks for the info on the petcock! That makes sense.

No worries, and I didn't take any offense. You just read my words as "your throttle didn't stick" when I did not write that and just wrote a general the throttle doesn't stick unless you throttle cable is binding.


If you go back in the posts I've done I have had my front headlight cowl off five times. Twice to reroute all the electrical wiring, and three times to reroute the control cabling. So far, knock on wood, there has been no more throttle cable issues that have resurfaced since the third rework of cabling. And they have all been because the throttle cable was binding in its wire sheath.


The throttle control on these bikes are very basic. Carburetor on one end with the throttle cable connecting in-between the throttle tube on the other end.


You have a brand new bike so throttle tube is not as likely a cause. Throttle tubes bind after you have used a dirt bike a lot and dropped it a few times in the dirt. Dirt and debris get under the throttle tube and cause it to bind. The only other way is drop damage on hard surfaces, especially if you have add-ons such as bar ends or hand guards. The impact force of the drop directly onto the right handlebar can drive the screws in the handlebar end further in and can can jam the add on up against the throttle tube causing it to bind. Throttle tubes have to be maintained, you don't need special oil for lubricant, I use regular engine oil. I removed my throttle tube, put a few drops of oil on the handlebar and reinserted my throttle tube and reinstalled the throttle cable end. I didn't jam the end of the throttle tube against the handlebar until it wouldn't move any further like the factory did, I left a very small gap to ensure free play before securing the throttle assembly to the handlebar.


I then posted about getting a cable lubrication tool and I shot silicone lubricant down all my cables, again preventative maintenance to prevent the throttle cable binding inside the sheath and slow down the oxidation and rusting of the throttle wire.


That leaves the carburetor as the only other source of the issue. While it can happen, the probability is very low that you have a manufacturing defect with your carburetor causing your throttle issue.


So that leaves through deduction the single most probable culprit, the throttle cable is binding.

[Texas Pete]

Originally Posted by tknj99

I do the same, the arrow pointing to the upper R for normal riding and then flip opposite for reserve. That is the normal procedure for carb'd bikes.. whether or not it makes a difference here i doubt it.. its funny though, it was opposite on my previous Titan 250 so it probably varies between China bikes i guess.

One thing I have always planned to do in the back of my mind but have not to date is to take a small wire or hair pin. Bend a small U on one end such that it can still move through the nipples on the fuel tank lobes. The plan was when the tank was run dry to take the fuel lines off both sides of the fuel tank, insert the wire into the nipple and then hook the upper end of the nipple inside the fuel tank.



Then by gauging how much wire is sticking out I would determine if the fuel nipples are the same exact or flush height with the bottom of the fuel tank lobes or if they were different heights. My hypothesis was they would be flush and the same heights within the fuel tank.


Also these are very simple gravity fed fuel delivery designs. Nothing electronic, pump or otherwise to go bad. Could have a modern Honda or other bike than when dropped on its side out in the dirt will refuse to start unless you delete all the extra "smart" tech they added to the bike to handle emissions and whatnot.

[Texas Pete]

Originally Posted by Thumper

There is a two wire connector under the tank from the wiring harness that is probably a viable sender connector to the instrument panel, but unfortunately, there is no hardware in the tank for fuel gauge.

The two wire connector under the fuel tank is for a factory optional alarm system which is not installed on the bikes shipped to the USA.

[NCtemplar250]

Originally Posted by Texas Pete

No worries, and I didn't take any offense. You just read my words as "your throttle didn't stick" when I did not write that and just wrote a general the throttle doesn't stick unless you throttle cable is binding.


If you go back in the posts I've done I have had my front headlight cowl off five times. Twice to reroute all the electrical wiring, and three times to reroute the control cabling. So far, knock on wood, there has been no more throttle cable issues that have resurfaced since the third rework of cabling. And they have all been because the throttle cable was binding in its wire sheath.


The throttle control on these bikes are very basic. Carburetor on one end with the throttle cable connecting in-between the throttle tube on the other end.


You have a brand new bike so throttle tube is not as likely a cause. Throttle tubes bind after you have used a dirt bike a lot and dropped it a few times in the dirt. Dirt and debris get under the throttle tube and cause it to bind. The only other way is drop damage on hard surfaces, especially if you have add-ons such as bar ends or hand guards. The impact force of the drop directly onto the right handlebar can drive the screws in the handlebar end further in and can can jam the add on up against the throttle tube causing it to bind. Throttle tubes have to be maintained, you don't need special oil for lubricant, I use regular engine oil. I removed my throttle tube, put a few drops of oil on the handlebar and reinserted my throttle tube and reinstalled the throttle cable end. I didn't jam the end of the throttle tube against the handlebar until it wouldn't move any further like the factory did, I left a very small gap to ensure free play before security the throttle assembly to the handlebar.


I then posted about getting a cable lubrication tool and I shot silicone lubricant down all my cables, again preventative maintenance to prevent the throttle cable binding inside the sheath and slow down the oxidation and rusting of the throttle wire.


That leaves the carburetor as the only other source of the issue. While it can happen, the probability is very low that you have a manufacturing defect with your carburetor causing your throttle issue.


So that leaves through deduction the single most probable culprit, the throttle cable is binding.

No worries. And you're right--the cable was binding underneath my gas tank. I was able to reroute it without without having to remove anything, and it fixed the problem. Thanks for all the great info.

I've read through this whole thread a couple times. Lots of good stuff here.

[buzz]

Ya you got it right, so helpful. Chinariders keep the good work going. On every day Thanks

[NCtemplar250]

Originally Posted by Thumper

Yup, that's the way it works. R or R ! I can get more than 10 miles when I switch. I don't know which is which, but I run it with the tab pointing down so that the thing is pointing to the upper R, then switch it over to the other lobe when it begins to cut out, so it points to the other R. I guess R is for "run".

There is a two wire connector under the tank from the wiring harness that is probably a viable sender connector to the instrument panel, but unfortunately, there is no hardware in the tank for fuel gauge.

I tried searching "mpg" in this thread, but didn't get any results. If I use my trip meter for a fuel gauge, what's a safe amount of total miles to use to approximate my fuel usage?

[Thumper]

Originally Posted by NCtemplar250

I tried searching "mpg" in this thread, but didn't get any results. If I use my trip meter for a fuel gauge, what's a safe amount of total miles to use to approximate my fuel usage?

I've run out a few times, but I use a gas can in the garage to add gasoline most of the time, And I don't fill it up. This is because my riding areas are close by, within a few miles. So I have never run out a tank.

Other here must fill to the top at a gas station most of the time.....

anyone?